DSLR Nikon D5100 !!

D5100 is still good, I also like Nikon more, Canon is a little useless, you just learn D5100, you buy an 18-105 set of machine in addition to a 50 prime lens (cheaper) Hehe, just take more pictures and practice.

I'm n users.

The Nikon D5100 is definitely a good machine.

But. I really don't recommend you to buy a body below D90, because he doesn't have a body motor.

Many lenses without a motor require a body motor for autofocus. For example, small steel cannons.

Unless you're good at manual technique, that's great.

I have poor eyesight and it's a bit difficult for me to focus on myself.

Let's take a look at Canon, there is no motor on the body, but his lens basically has a motor, and the autofocus is solid.

If you want to develop photography, it is better to go to the D7000 bare machine (the lack of money D90 is enough) with a 35mm 2D and 50 so that 50 and 85 focal lengths are available.

The 5100 is a single dial wheel and other functional limitations, so you can't use it for multiple functions, and you don't have the functions you want to use.

It's best to learn photography with a fixed focus, and then talk about a few focal lengths with proficiency. Try not to buy DX heads when buying lenses, just buy full FX heads.

Because it involves you to upgrade the fuselage in the future.

As for how to buy lenses in the future, when you shoot enough 2w shots, you will know what focal length lens you need.

The best choice for entry-level SLRs, the Nikon D5100. Good workmanship, excellent picture quality, and balanced performance.

Nikon's SLR is okay, and Canon's is okay. Each has its own strengths, but there are few practical differences. There is not much difference between the high-end ones, and there is a saying in the low-end ones: the people of the C family are like the scenery of the N family. I'm using 7D.

Well, I also have this Nikon D5100 in my pictureBut at the same time, I hesitate Pentax K5...

Two suggested copy gives you control of **:

1.To use the BAI aperture priority setting, you can dial the dial to zhi "a", if the subject is brighter, for example.

DAO can be adjusted down by another small gear-like dial during the day (e.g., f8, the higher the number, the smaller the aperture), and indoors or in low-light places (e.g. In this way, the time is automatically adjusted by the camera according to the value after metering.

2.Use the metering mode well. Generally, there are spot metering, ** key metering, or surface metering.

If the contrast of the scenery you shoot is too great, such as shooting people against the backlight, if you use spot metering to shoot the people, the characters will be shot clearly, but the scenery behind them is excessive. If you don't want to overdo it, you'll need to use face metering. You can feel these skills when you practice, just shoot more and think more.

Regarding pure theoretical knowledge, you can search for it yourself, there are a lot of them, and I personally think that it is necessary to practice more.

In general photography tutorials, there are methods and principles for setting aperture and shutter, which only define the range of basic data under the scene and lighting conditions, but in actual photography, the specific matching value of aperture and shutter is still obtained through practice.

Use auto first, the one with the green camera icon. Metering, ** and other knowledge should be learned slowly

You try using the P file first.

Then take a look at the parameters.

Learn it slowly.

Take a look at the information.