What is the cause of the gradual yellowing and wilting of Alocasia leaves, and how to solve it?

The possible causes of yellowing and wilting of Alocasia leaves are as follows:

1.Watering too much or too little: Alocasia prefers a moist environment, but too much or too little watering can cause the leaves to turn yellow. When watering too much, change the watering method, keep it dry and wet, and avoid water accumulation; When watering too little, increase the number of watering times to keep the potting soil moist.

2.Too much or too little fertilizer: Alocasia likes fertilizer, but too much or too little fertilizer can cause yellowing of the leaves.

When fertilizing too much, stop fertilizing, increase watering, and replace potting soil if necessary; When the fertilization is too little, the number of fertilization should be increased appropriately, mainly nitrogen-containing fertilizer, which can be applied once every half a month.

3.Too low or too high: Alocasia is best grown at a temperature between 20-25, and too high or too low a temperature can cause the leaves to turn yellow. When the temperature is too high, it should be moved indoors and ventilated and cooled; When the temperature is too low, take measures to prevent frostbite.

4.Oil smoke pollution: Alocasia prefers a clean environment, and if it is inhaled in home farming, it will also cause yellowing of leaves and poor flowering. The solution is to pay attention to the ventilation of the alocasia breeding environment and keep it away from the kitchen.

The above are the possible causes of yellowing and wilting of Alocasia leaves and the corresponding solutions, I hope it will be helpful to you.

Do you keep it indoors for a long time? Insufficient indoor light affects cell differentiation and inhibits chlorophyll.

of the formation. It should also not be exposed to direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are prone to yellow edges. Or overwatering, once a week is enough.

There is also excessive fertilization to form fertilizer damage. Yellowed leaves with holes will not grow well, so you should cut them off as soon as possible, preferably where the petiole joins the stem. Note that only the leaves with yellow edges and dead edges can be trimmed and most of them should be retained.

1. Dry yellow, the yellow of lack of water is not the same as the yellow of more water, the yellow of lack of water is the withering and dry leaf tips or edges, and the old leaves are withered and yellow from the bottom to the top, but the growth of new leaves is relatively normal. Pay attention to watering when watering enough, water thoroughly.

Second, the lack of fertilizer yellow is manifested in the young leaves become lighter, yellow or light green, while the old leaves are more normal or gradually turn from green to yellow. It is necessary to check the potting soil frequently, if there is a dry phenomenon, the soil should be replaced, the thin fertilizer should be applied frequently, and some Bika water-soluble fertilizer should be poured in a timely manner to supplement nutrients.

3. Lack of light yellow, long-term shade environment, leaves can not get enough sunlight, can not form chlorophyll, the whole leaf turns yellow and then falls off, supplemental light can avoid this disease.

Fourth, fat yellow, too much fertilization or excessive concentration caused by the yellowing of flowers, manifested in the top of the new leaf dry brown, generally the leaf surface is thick and dull, and the concave and convex are not stretched, and the old leaves are scorched and yellow. Fertilization should be stopped immediately, and part of the fertilizer should be washed with plenty of washing in severe cases.

Fifth, scorching yellow, strong sunlight directly on some shade-loving flowers (such as spider plant, hosta, etc.), easy to cause flower leaf tips, leaf margins withered, leaf sunrise part of the yellow spot. Move to the pubic area.

Sixth, the water is yellow, the young leaves are dark yellow and dull, the old leaves have no obvious changes, the branches are small yellow-green, and the new shoots are shrunk and not long, indicating excessive watering. Depot the flowers, put them in a ventilated and cool shade, and dry the soil ball before putting them back into the pot.

Summary. Hello, glad for your question. Reasons for scorched edges of taro leaves:

1. Lack of light taro has a greater demand for light during the growth period, and the lack of light will make the taro leaves yellow. Therefore, during the growth period of taro, it is necessary to give more than 5 hours of sunlight every day. When the light is too strong, a shade net can be built on top of the taro to weaken the intensity of the light.

Hello, glad for your question. The reasons for the scorching edge of taro leaves: 1. Lack of light taro has a greater demand for light cavity during the growth period, and the lack of light will make taro leaves yellow.

Therefore, during the growth period of taro, it is necessary to give more than 5 hours of sunlight every day. When the light is too strong, Kewuhe builds a layer of sunshade hail net above the taro to weaken the intensity of the light.

2. Lack of nutrients, if the taro young leaves become lighter in color, yellow or light green, and the old leaves are in a normal growth state or turn from green to yellow, it may be caused by the lack of nutrients in the soil.

3. The yellowing of taro leaves may also be caused by soil waterlogging, which will lead to difficulty in root respiration and rotten roots and yellow leaves. Therefore, the amount of watering needs to be strictly controlled during the daily maintenance of the taro, which can be watered every 2 or 3 days to ensure that the soil is in a moist state. 4. Bacterial infection.

Taro is suitable for growing in a ventilated and breathable environment, if the taro growth environment is too closed, it will make a large number of germs breed, making taro leaves yellow. At this time, the diluted carbendazim solution can be sprayed on the leaves late to alleviate the problem, so that the root wilt system and the leaves can resume growth as soon as possible.

Summary. Dear, hello, it should be taro wilt, taro wilt, also known as dry rot, is one of the common and important diseases in taro production areas. It is mainly parasitic on the stems, causing wilting or rotting.

The symptoms of mild onset are not obvious, and the yellowing of old leaves is rapid. Severely diseased plants show poor growth, turning yellow-green, drying up early in autumn or lodging stems and leaves, peeling off the bulbs, the cortex turns red, and severe large pieces turn reddish-brown, resulting in dry rot or hollow.

You can choose 10% difenoconazole, 25% benzobromonrile (charcoal), 20% flusilazole, prochlorazole, 43% tebuconazole these ** fungicides.

Ask for help, taro leaves wilt, what is the disease, and how to treat it?

Dear, this question is from me, and I am sorting out the answer, please wait a moment, and give you the answer within five minutes.

Dear, this question is from me, and I am sorting out the answer, please wait a moment, and give you the answer within five minutes.

Now it is a small seedling, and the bottom leaves are dry.

Dear, hello, it should be a state of taro wilt, taro wilt, also known as dry rot, is one of the common and important diseases in taro production areas. It is mainly parasitic on the stem, causing it to wither or decay. The symptoms of mild onset are not obvious, and the yellowing of old leaves is rapid.

Severely diseased plants show poor growth, turning yellow-green, early drying or lodging of stems and leaves in autumn, peeling off bulbs, turning the cortex red, severe large pieces turning reddish-brown, and closed wheels causing dry rot or hollow. You can choose 10% difenoconazole, 25% benzobromonrile (charcoal), 20% flusilazole, prochlorazole, 43% tebuconazole these ** fungicides.

Dear, hello, it should be a state of taro wilt, taro wilt, also known as dry rot, is one of the common and important diseases in taro production areas. It is mainly parasitic on the stem, causing it to wither or decay. The symptoms of mild onset are not obvious, and the yellowing of old leaves is rapid.

Severely diseased plants show poor growth, turning yellow-green, early drying or lodging of stems and leaves in autumn, peeling off bulbs, turning the cortex red, severe large pieces turning reddish-brown, and closed wheels causing dry rot or hollow. You can choose 10% difenoconazole, 25% benzobromonrile (charcoal), 20% flusilazole, prochlorazole, 43% tebuconazole these ** fungicides.

I have never planted taro in this land.

Taro can also be grown on land that has not been planted with taro.

The causes of yellowing and drying of taro leaves are: insufficient light, soil waterlogging, infection with germs, lack of nutrients, and diseases of manuscripts.

1. Insufficient light.

The yellowing and dryness of taro leaves is caused by insufficient light. During the cultivation period, ensure sufficient light every day, and the light should not be less than 5 hours. When the light is strong, it can be properly shaded to prevent long-term exposure to the sun.

2. Soil waterlogging.

The yellow dry taro leaves are the long-term accumulation of water in the potting soil, which hinders the absorption of the root system and causes root rot. Therefore, it is necessary to water in an appropriate amount when cultivating, and keep the soil moist every time you water, and there should be no stagnant water.

3. Infection with germs.

The yellowing and withering of taro leaves is caused by a bacterial infection. In the process of growth, bacterial infections often breed due to improper maintenance. In the face of such a situation, it is necessary to treat hunger and hand therapy in time. The roots can be disinfected with carbendazim to restore the roots and leaves to life as soon as possible.

4. Lack of nutrients.

Lack of nutrients if the taro young leaves become lighter, yellow or light green, and the old leaves are in a normal growth state or from green to yellow, may be caused by the lack of nutrients in the soil, at this time you can water the soil fertilizer water to supplement iron, in the later maintenance of taro, you need to apply a rotten organic fertilizer every half a month to supplement nutrition.

5. Diseases. During the growth of taro, if there is wilt, root rot, leaf blight, soft rot, etc., it will cause leaf wilt. Choose the appropriate drugs, such as methyl tobuzin, chlorothalonil, dysenammonium, chunleimycin, phyllazole, etc., spray and irrigate the roots, and apply it with water if the disease is serious.

Attention should be paid to the selection of disease-free seeds, and the seeds should be soaked and disinfected. It's really not good, only crop rotation.