Is the wrinkled leaves of the big leaved boxwood bulb worm?

Not necessarily, the wrinkling of large-leaved boxwood leaves may be caused by improper maintenance or pests and diseases, so it is necessary to prescribe the right medicine and manage it scientifically.

Boxwood bulb pest control methods.

1. Powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is a common disease of boxwood bulbs, mainly harming leaves, when this disease occurs, the branches and leaves can be properly pruned to enhance the permeability effect and avoid the spread of pests and diseases.

2. Leaf blight.

Leaf blight is a serious disease that harms boxwood bulbs, which will cause its leaves to fall off, branches to wilt, and in severe cases, to plant death. To prevent and control leaf blight, spray drugs regularly in spring to remove the source of the disease, and cut off the diseased branches and destroy them when the disease is found.

3. Stem rot.

Stem rot is also one of the most common diseases, the onset of the disease will cause the boxwood bulb leaves to change color, lose their original luster, the disease will increase with the temperature rise, so in the summer need to pay special attention to prevention.

4. Anthrax.

Anthrax is very similar to leaf blight, the leaves of the affected plants are yellow, the lesions start to expand from the edges, ** are grayish-white, and small black spots will appear in the later stage. Prevention and control of anthrax can be in the winter to collect the dead leaves, burn or bury deeply, usually to strengthen the management, when the disease can be sprayed some carbendazim wettable powder to remove germs.

Cultivation method of large-leaved boxwood.

1. Soil. Large-leaved boxwood is suitable for growing in fertile and well-drained soils, and does not require high soil acidity and alkalinity, either slightly acidic or slightly alkaline.

2. Temperature. It likes relatively warm temperature conditions, and also has a certain cold resistance, and there is no need to take warm measures when the temperature is not very cold in winter.

4. Moisture. It prefers to be moist and has requirements for both soil moisture and air humidity. Usually it is necessary to water in time to keep the soil moist, and spray it to humidify when the air is drier in summer.

Big-leaved boxwood bulb pests and diseases are divided into diseases and insect pests, and common diseases include powdery mildew, leaf spot, and stem rot.

The main insect pests of big-leaved boxwood balls are boxwood silky leaf borer, large-leaved boxwood inchworm, and Japanese turtle wax.

These pests and diseases may cause the leaves of large-leaved boxwood to shrink.

Maintenance methods of large-leaved boxwood.

1. Large-leaved boxwood cultivation technology:

First of all, the large-leaved boxwood must be propagated and grown by cuttings, and the cuttings take root quickly in the rainy season, and the cuttings can be carried out in spring and summer, and it is easy to survive. Secondly, we plant the best options in the spring or autumn to autumn, between August and October, and when the temperature gets cooler and colder, don't forget to build a small plastic greenhouse, and this situation lasts until the next year in April, when the climate is warmer, then you can do without the small plastic shed.

2. Large-leaved boxwood transplantation and field management

Large-leaved boxwood transplantation is mostly carried out in spring from March to April, seedlings should be transplanted with soil, the main management of large-leaved boxwood is pruning and shaping, and it needs to be pruned many times a year to promote growth and maintain a certain tree shape.

3. Planting depth of large-leaved boxwood:

Effect of planting depth on the survival of large-leaved boxwood--large-leaved boxwood is planted too deeply, the ground temperature is low, and the seedlings are not easy to germinate and not easy to take new roots. When planting bare-root hedges, they can be 3 cm to 5 cm higher than the original soil marks of the trees, and the large-leaved boxwood with soil balls should be level with the upper skin of the soil balls or slightly higher than the soil balls about 2 cm.

Fourth, large-leaf boxwood water and fertilizer management:

Watering: Large-leaved boxwood likes a humid environment, should be watered immediately after planting, two watering the next day, three watering on the fifth day, after three waters, the soil should be loosened in time to protect moisture, and watering according to the weather conditions, in order to keep the soil moist and not waterlogged. When the temperature is high in summer, it should also be watered in time, and spray it on the foliar surface, it should be noted that summer watering can only be carried out in the morning and evening when the temperature is low, and it is not suitable for watering when the temperature is high at noon.

Before winter, it should be poured with antifreeze water from the end of October to the beginning of November; In mid-March, it should also be watered thoroughly, as this time is essential for the growth of the plants throughout the year, as the lack of water can affect the germination of new leaves due to the strong and long winds in spring.

Fertilization: large-leaved boxwood likes fertilizer, should be applied when planting, fertilizer to rot fertilizer, circle fertilizer or drying chicken manure is good, the bottom fertilizer should be fully mixed with the planting soil, if not mixed, the root system will be burned after planting; After entering the normal management, the application of water-soluble fertilizer and high-nitrogen products of fertile leaves after pruning in mid-spring every year can make the plants flourish. The application of potassium dihydrogen phosphate in early autumn can accelerate the lignification of new shoots of the year, which is conducive to the safe overwintering of plants. When the plant growth is poor, the method of foliar spray can be used to fertilize, and the commonly used is potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution of fertile leaves, which can accelerate the growth of the plant.

See if you're hungry and drought, and if you don't have a drought, you can sprinkle it with chili water.

Wrinkling leaves does not necessarily mean that there is an insect.

The main diseases are: powdery mildew, leaf spot, stem rot, the prevention and control of these diseases and the method can be used drugs, and in severe cases, the infected branches and leaves need to be cut off and burned.

Although the large-leaved boxwood ball has strong resistance to diseases and insects, it also needs people's careful care to grow normally.

This condition should be powdery mildew, and large-leaved boxwood is susceptiblePowdery mildew damages young leaves and shootsThe most obvious symptom is the white powdery substance on the surface of the leaf or on the back of the leaf and the tender shootsIn the later stage, it gradually changes to white-gray felt-like。In severe cases, the leaves are curled, the tips of the branches are twisted and deformed, and even die.

It is powdery mildew, and the large-leaved boxwood is susceptible to powdery mildew is the young leaves and new shoots, and its most obvious symptom is that the leaf surface or the back of the leaf and the surface of the young shoots are covered with white powdery matter, and gradually turn into white-gray felt-like in the later stage. In severe cases, the leaves are curled, the tips of the branches are twisted and deformed, and even die.

The most obvious symptom is that the leaf surface or the back of the leaf and the surface of the young shoots are covered with white powdery powder, which gradually turns into white-gray felt-like in the later stage. In severe cases, the leaves are curled, the tips of the branches are twisted and deformed, and even die.

There are two main reasons for the yellowing and scorching of large-leaved boxwood bonsai; When the sunlight is too strong, the leaves are burned by the sun's back-shot exposure, but the fertilizer is too thick or the raw fertilizer is not ripe.

Bonsai fertilization must be reasonable, in the amount of fertilizer to master, such as in the growth period, the number of fertilization can be appropriately more, thicker, the general fertilizer to water ratio of 3:10, every 7-10 days 1 time. There is a reply and when the fertilization is too thick, it will cause harm, the plant makes its own organic fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed, fermented before it can be used, if it is found that the leaves are yellow, the fertilization should be stopped immediately.