How to cut the branches of the apple tree, how to prune the apple tree

1.Look at the age of the tree. The amount of pruning of young trees and early fruiting trees should be small, the degree of pruning should be light, and attention should be paid to cultivating tree shape and fruiting branch groups; Trees in the full fruiting period should be appropriately re-pruned, and attention should be paid to rotating the fruiting branch groups; During the senescence stage, the trees were re-pruned and the fruiting branch groups were renewed.

2.Look at the amount of flower buds. Fruit trees with a large number of flower buds should be pruned more and the degree of pruning should be appropriately increased.

Strictly control the total number of flower buds and the proportion of flower and leaf buds, and the proportion of flower and leaf buds is generally 1 20. For small trees with few flower buds, it is necessary to lightly prune more flower buds, and re-prune branches and branch groups without flower buds to renew the fruiting branch group.

3.Look at the tree. Strong and prosperous trees should be lightly pruned, to erect strong and strong branches, and leave side standing branches and moderate branches to ease the tree momentum, and then promote the formation of flower buds; Weak trees should be heavily pruned, weak branches and drooping branches should be cut off, and senescent fruiting branch groups should be renewed.

4.Look at the characteristics of the variety. Varieties with strong germination and branching power, such as Fuji, Guoguang and other varieties, are easy to cause canopy closure and poor light in the inner chamber, so the amount of pruning should be large, and more sparse and less moderate branches should be intercepted when pruning.

5.Look at the cultivation management conditions. Trees with good soil, fertilizer and water management conditions and strong body should be pruned lightly; On the contrary, for trees with thin slopes and poor management conditions, the amount of pruning should be larger, and the degree of pruning should be appropriately heavy, less sparse and more pruned.

Pruning and sawing should be done correctly. When stubbing, it should be cut from the opposite side of the bud, and the inner mouth of the cut should be 45 degrees inclined plane, the top of the inclined plane and the tip of the bud are flat, and the lowest part is equal to the base of the bud. Winter pruning often prunes the cut mouth dry and shrinks a section, and the cut bud is susceptible to damage, affecting germination and branch pulling, so the cut should be higher than the cut bud centimeter.

When thinning branches, cut them in the direction of the branch fork or under the side of the branch, and the cut is gently inclined to the surface. When pruning thicker branches, hold the pruning shears in one hand, hold the branch with the other hand and gently push it to the outside of the cut to keep the cut smooth. Be sure to use a saw to remove large branches to prevent splitting.

For frozen apple trees lacking branches, long branches should be used to make up for the space, and they should be lightly cut within 1 or 2 years to retain the number of branches and promote their germination of more branches. Within 3 to 4 years, each branch should be cut in the middle, and after fruiting, it should be appropriately retracted according to the canopy space, and cultivated into a permanent auxiliary branch or fruiting branch group. In this way, the canopy can be restored after 4 to 5 years of cultivation.

The main goal of autumn pruning of apple trees is to reduce local consumption, promote overall accumulation, and improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, so as to achieve the purpose of improving fruit quality. In production, it was found that some fruit farmers had some problems in the autumn pruning that could not be ignored. It is summarized as follows and suggestions for improvement.

1) The time is not accurate, and it backfires.

Pruning too early in autumn can easily cause branches to grow vigorously; Pruning too late in autumn will have no obvious effect on slowing down the growth momentum, and it will also affect light and waste nutrients.

Suggestions for improvement: According to the local situation, the general topping and retraction time is carried out from 30 to 40 days before the fall of leaves after the autumn shoots stop growing. The thinning can be extended from summer to autumn, as long as it is the germinating branch of the year, germinate at any time, and be thinned at any time, without time limitation, but the thinning of the annual branch depends on the situation; It is better to wear a hat 25 days after the autumn shoots are issued.

Pulling branches and opening angles in autumn is the main measure to improve the permeability and tree vigor of the tree, which should be carried out after the autumn shoots have basically stopped growing, and the branches of the current year are the main ones.

2) Wearing too many hats and disordered branches.

The main performance is: as long as it is autumn pruning, no matter what variety, what kind of branches, all at the junction of spring and autumn shoots.

The hat treatment is carried out at the junction of the first and second year old branches, and the result is that the new shoots around the whole tree grow vigorously, and it is easy to form a "lion's head", which not only can not play a role in slowing down the growth momentum, but causes vigorous growth.

Suggestions for improvement: In mid to late August, the new shoots on the auxiliary branches of red Fuji, golden crown and other varieties should be cut at the blind joints at the junction of spring and autumn shoots, and some over-flourishing perennial slow branches can also be put on.

The first and second year students wear hats and prune at the junction; Marshals are not suitable for wearing hats. In the specific operation, the following methods should be grasped: all the branches of the strong and prosperous auxiliary branches and the branches of the large side branches should be hated, and some weak long branches and middle branches should be worn with dead caps.

In addition, the backbone branches and extension heads at all levels are generally not suitable for pruning by the hat method.

3) The thinning of the branches is too light, and the light path is not passable.

The main manifestations are: when thinning branches in autumn, only the old branches such as the long branches in the inner chamber and the germinating branches at the sawing mouth of the large pruning are only thinned, and the other branches are not thinned and retracted, resulting in poor canopy canopy, which is not conducive to flowering and fruit coloring in the later stage.

Improvement suggestions: around mid-September, the inner chamber invalid branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, long branches, competing branches, etc. should be thinned and retracted, focusing on cleaning the inner chamber branches and the current year's branches, and the pruning amount should not be too large. In the 15 to 20 days before the fruit is harvested, the overly dense branches, mopping skirt branches and peripheral clump branches in the upper part of the tree should be retracted or thinned according to the situation.

At this stage, the diameter of the thinning and retraction cut should not exceed 3 cm.

The problem is too big, first of all, the tree shape is reasonable, using a free spindle shape, and the dwarf tree is a slender spindle shape. The pruning should be layered, ventilated and light-transmitting. Specific techniques: thinning and combining, try not to cut off, and adopt the long pruning method.

Hello, the method of pruning branches of apple trees, for the growth of apple trees, promote the uniform ripening of fruits, and improve the quality of fruits. The methods of pruning branches are:1

Branch pruning: leave 3-4 twigs on the branches and remove excess branches; 2.Flowering pruning:

After the apple tree has flowered, remove the excess branches and keep the flower buds; 3.Post-flowering pruning: after the apple tree has flowered, excess shoots are removed, flower buds are preserved, and fruit formation; 4.

Pruning after fruit trembling and ripening: After the fruit is ripe, remove excess branch dust to promote even ripening of the fruit.

How to prune the branches of an apple tree is as follows:

1. For the pruning of young trees for one year, it is necessary to carry out fixed stem treatment, control the fixed stem height in 70-80, ensure 3-4 full buds, and when the new shoots are old and mature, all tender and slightly new shoots under the fixed dry height should be erased.

2. The pruning of two-year-old young trees should be paid attention to in time when budding, the main branches can be pulled to an approximate horizontal angle, the auxiliary branches should be pulled, and the dense branches and extended competitive branches should be removed in a timely and reasonable manner, and the branches should be topped, and the robust branches should be selected as the second layer of main branches to cultivate auxiliary branches, and the other branches should be shortened.

3. Three-year-old young tree pruning, pruning, edible ring stripping method to control the vigorous growth, so that the flower buds are formed, winter shears to cultivate about 3 robust branches, used to cultivate the third layer of main branches and auxiliary branches, and to control the tree potential.

4. The pruning of four-year-old young trees is for the purpose of increasing yield, at this time the skeleton of the apple has been formed, and it will begin to bear fruit early, and the pruning method responds to the purpose of regulating the balanced growth of the tree and promoting early yield.

There is a difference in the branching ability of fruits, and for young trees with weak branching ability, they can be appropriately re-truncated, so that fruiting branches and vegetative branches can be cultivated. For young trees with medium branching strength, only moderate stubbing treatment is sufficient; However, for young trees with strong branching force, it is necessary to carry out mild stubbing, dense branches should be appropriately thinned, and the general principle is to re-prune weak branches, retain more auxiliary branches, and lightly prune strong branches.

Apple trees are usually pruned in the autumn and winter of each year, and when cultivating apple trees, it is necessary to cultivate apple trees from the junction of spring and autumn shoots on auxiliary branches or.

Prune at the junction of one- and two-year-old branches, and cut off the ineffective branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, long branches, competing branches and other branches of the apple tree to enhance the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

1. Pruning time

Apple trees are generally pruned in autumn and winter, and if pruned too early, it is easy to cause their branches to grow vigorously, while pruning too late can affect their growth and lead to malnutrition. Pruning in autumn and winter can prevent the branches from growing and reduce nutrient loss, and only need to be thinned the rest of the time.

2. Wear a hat and trim

In mid-to-late August of each year, the junction of spring and autumn shoots on the auxiliary branches of apple trees or.

The first and second year-old branches are capped at the junction of the branches, and the branches of the apple tree are shortened to reduce local nutrient consumption, and the growth of the apple tree can also be promoted, so that the light can shine through the branches to the inside, so as to achieve the purpose of increasing fruit yield.

3. Thinning and pruning

After the hat pruning is completed, the apple tree can be thinned and pruned, its invalid branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, long branches, competing branches, etc. are thinned, and the inner branches and branches of the current year can be cleaned up to enhance its ventilation and light transmission ability. Be careful to use sterilized scissors when pruning to prevent bacterial infection.

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For you to find out, how to prune apple trees: 1. Retract on the perennial branches of apple trees. The pruning response on perennial branches (fruiting) is to promote the growth of shoots under the cuts, which for the whole tree, is to solve the problem of light and give room for the development of infested sensitive branches.

2. Thinning pruning: Removing annual or perennial branches in winter pruning improves the local and overall light of the tree, concentrates and increases the accumulation of nutrients in the tree, which is conducive to flower bud differentiation and improves the fruit quality on fruit trees. The pruning response of thinning is to weaken the growth potential of the whole tree. The more thinning, the more severe the weakening of the tree.

If the large branches are thinned too much, the large roots and small roots in the underground part will be affected, and if the root system does not grow well, the tree will weaken. 3. Growing is to let the branches on the fruit tree grow naturally. The response on the tree body is to slow down the growth of branches and promote flowering and fruiting.

For the wang branches, it can be taken after a few years of long release to form a uniaxial, slender, loose group of drooping branches. Such branches have a strong fruiting ability, large fruits, and good quality. Fourth, change the direction of a branch that grows on the body of the auspicious tree, artificially change the direction of the natural growth of the branch, ease the growth potential, promote the formation of medium and short branches on the branch, and let these small medium and short branches become flowers and fruits.

1. Pruning time selection: If you want to prune apple trees, it is generally best to choose to prune after harvesting the fruit or in the spring.

2. Prune off the withered branches: When we prune the branches, it is generally best to prune off the withered branches, so that the withered branches are useless, and it will also affect the sunlight exposure of other branches and leaves, which has an inhibiting effect on the growth of apple trees.

3. Pruning dense branches: We also need to prune some dense branches, if there are too many dense branches, it is really unfavorable to the fruit, and the fruit will often be smaller, which is obviously not the result we want, so we need to prune the dense branches properly.

4. The branches of the borer need to be pruned off: it is very common for the apple tree to have borers, so we need to see which branches are borers, and we need to prune them off in time for the branches of the borers, which we need to know, because some borers will hide in the branches.

5. Angle when pruning: When we prune branches, we generally need to choose an angle, generally it is best to choose 60 ° to prune, such an angle is better, it is generally best to prune to the bottom, so that it will not be pricked, we need to pay attention to this.

6. Ensure the overall symmetry after pruning: When we prune the apple tree, we need to ensure the overall symmetry after pruning, which is very important, because if it is not symmetrical, it will lead to the gradual crookedness of the apple tree, which is not good, but we need to pay special attention to this.

Introduction: Fruits are indispensable nutrients for the human body, and apples are one of the most common types of fruits in our daily life, so what do we need to pay attention to when pruning apple trees? At what stage is it better to prune an apple tree?

First, the pruning process.

First of all, we want to prune the apple tree, we generally choose to prune after picking up the apple, this time is the time to prune, in addition, in the autumn can also be pruned, secondly, we want to prune the apple tree, generally the withered branches are pruned off, those withered branches are useless, the thicker branches are treated, if not pruned, those branches bear very small apples, when building the branches to see if there are bugs, if there are bugs, We must reduce the branches, otherwise the infestation will be further propagated. It is also necessary to pay attention to the pruning of those branches that have not completely withered as much as possible, and pay attention to the symmetry problem when pruning, do not have more than one side and less on the other, which can easily cause the apple tree to be skewed. <>

Second, the pruning time.

If pruning too early in autumn, it is easy to cause vigorous branches, if you are too late in autumn, it is possible to slow down the growth momentum is not obvious, and it will also affect light and waste nutrients, the growth and development of apples during the budding period is mainly to consume and store nutrients, with the growth of the root system and the increase of temperature, during this period to minimize the ineffective consumption of nutrients, and promote the formation of stable yield and high-quality fruit trees. <>

3. Precautions.

If you want to get high quality and high yield, you can try to build an orchard within the fertile soil, if you want to improve high quality and high yield, fruit tree, fruit and flower bud treatment is in the rapid growth and development stage of fruit trees, it is important to use organic fertilizer in time, make the soil around the fruit tree soft, improve root aeration, spray appropriate pesticides, and avoid leaf loss and fruit loss of fruit trees.