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Secondary drainage is an effective step to prevent water seepage and leakage operation, which is different from ordinary waterproof operation, more tight, and reduces the trouble of later maintenance.
First of all, it is necessary to make an opening for the drainage riser in the bathroom. On the basis of the original waterproof surface layer of the bathroom, a small hole of a certain size is opened on the top of the toilet drainage riser, and it is necessary to ensure that the waterproof layer originally made by the hydropower construction unit cannot be damaged. In addition, it should be noted that the height of the opening should be standardized, which is generally the same as the height of the bottom of the hole in the pipe and the surface of the original waterproof layer.
In addition, the openings of the drainage riser must be smooth, and the burrs on the side of the holes that are punched are removed.
It is necessary to cut a certain size pipe into a length of about 20mm-40mm, and one end of the pipe is coated with PVC glue and stuffed into the drainage riser. At this time, it is necessary to ensure that the part of the pipe plugged into the drainage riser does not exceed 1mm-3mm of the thickness of the PVC riser wall. That is, the thickness of the pipe wall needs to be determined according to the size of the drainage riser.
After the drainage conduit is installed according to the operation described above, it is necessary to find the slope in the opposite direction according to the bottom of the inner wall of the drainage conduit as the base point, where the bottom of the inner wall of the drainage conduit should be the lowest point. In addition, the slope should not be too small, preferably one to three percent. In addition, it is best to do a waterproof operation on the surface of the slope that has been found, and the perimeter of the bathroom needs to be rolled along the wall and pipe during the operation.
Because the floor height of the toilet is lower than that of other spaces, and the sinking height is generally more than 400mm, when the toilet is backfilled after the installation is completed, it is necessary to use pebbles or ceramsite within a certain size range to carry out the backfill work of the fan-shaped range with a radius of 300mm with the secondary drainage pipe as the center. Moreover, the backfill height should not be less than 100mm, and generally not more than 150mm, and the toilet load caused by too much backfill on one side. After the cobblestone backfill is completed, it is necessary to use other relatively light materials to backfill the toilet to the standard height, at this time, it is best to use materials such as ceramsite to backfill, and must not use river sand or stone powder to avoid clogging the drainage pipes.
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The correct construction idea of secondary drainage in the bathroom.
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Summary: Secondary drainage is an effective step to prevent water seepage and leakage, which is different from ordinary waterproof operation, more rigorous, and reduces the trouble of later maintenance.
Drainage refers to artificially controlling the flow direction of water and artificially draining it. Measures to eliminate and dispose of excess water. Farmland drainage is one of the important measures to improve agricultural production conditions and ensure high and stable crop yields.
Principle:
In order to control the water table, field drainage ditches with a certain spacing and depth must be excavated. In the case of a given depth of drainage ditch, to meet certain drainage requirements, the smaller the spacing of drainage ditches, the faster the groundwater declines, and the greater the decline value of the groundwater level in a certain time.
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The secondary drainage of the toilet is a design method to prevent the leakage of the water pipe or the floor at the bottom of the toilet from leaking. After all, there will be leakage or sediment accumulation in the bathroom when water is used for a long time, and the soaking of cement for a long time will more or less penetrate into the downstairs, so that secondary drainage can solve this problem well.
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Toilet secondary drainage method:
1. First of all, make a hole in the main drainage pipe, install the drainage pipe, and pay attention to the same height as the waterproof layer of the original sinking layer.
2. Start to do the sinking layer treatment, and when you do it, you should do the slope work according to the leveling of the drainage pipe mouth, and then brush the waterproof paint twice.
3. When laying pipes, start to make partitions, and consider the location of the pipes to be laid.
4. Use ceramsite with good drainage to do backfill work, then lay steel bars, and then do concrete treatment.
5. Finishing work: first brush the waterproof twice on the bathroom floor, and then do cement slurry treatment.
Precautions for secondary drainage.
1. When the installation of the secondary drainage outlet is completed, it is necessary to find the slope in time. On top of the slope layer, it is necessary to re-do an effective layer of waterproofing.
2. When the leveling layer and drainage outlet are all completed, it is recommended to do a closed water test. In this case, the drain is blocked and the liquid level is observed to drop.
3. After the closed water test is completed, open the drain to observe whether the water can flow out completely. If the water is stored at this time, it means that the slope is unqualified, and the slope must be re-founded.
4. During the construction of the sunken toilet, it is necessary to pay attention to the protection of the drainage outlet and the waterproof inside the caisson. Because no matter how good the installation is, it will affect its use if it is damaged in the later stage.
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The method of secondary discharge of trapped water is as follows:
First of all, it is necessary to make a hole in the appropriate position of the main drainage pipe in the bathroom, and the edge of the hole should be polished and smoothed, and there should be no burrs. Then insert the drainage pipe that needs to be used for secondary drainage into the opening, and fix it tightly with PVC glue to ensure that the nozzle of the drainage pipe is at the same height as the waterproof layer of the caisson.
Finally, take the drainage pipe mouth as the lowest point, and make a slope at the bottom of the caisson, so that the deposited water can be left at the drainage pipe and discharged smoothly to achieve the effect of secondary drainage.
There is a caisson at the bottom of the sunken toilet, and after the water pipe is installed at the bottom of the caisson, it is overhead and backfilled with ceramsite, and finally leveled with cement mortar on the bathroom plane, made waterproof, and pasted with floor tiles.
However, if the waterproof of the bathroom floor is damaged, and the water flows into the caisson and cannot be discharged, then it will lead to more serious hidden dangers. With the secondary waterproofing, the stagnant water flowing into the caisson can be easily discharged, eliminating hidden dangers.
Sunken toilet advantages
The sunken bathroom does not need to be cut in the floor slab, and the pipe layout is more convenient and will not affect the downstairs owner. Another advantage is that the sound insulation is good. Since the boy or pipe is buried in the filler, it can absorb most of the noise.
In addition, the sunken toilet will not have exposed pipes, so it will have a relatively high aesthetics.
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1. First of all, we should ensure that the developer's original waterproofing is effective, if it really doesn't work, then the secondary drainage construction needs to be carried out.
2. The toilet is drained by the secondary drainage of the toilet sewer pipe.
3. Next, you need to connect a floor drain on the 50 horizontal pipe of the sewer pipe.
4. Then use cement to pour a plane with a slope to ensure that the floor drain is at the point.
5. Do the corresponding waterproofing on the cement plane.
6. Build a 40 x 40 lattice with bricks, paying attention to the holes below that leave water away.
7. Lay the template on the lattice, and do not backfill it with anything in the lattice.
8. Pour concrete on the formwork, pay attention to the rebar, and play the expansion bolts on the surrounding walls, and weld the rebar on the expansion bolts.
9. Do waterproofing on the concrete.
10. Paving floor tiles.
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