Hello, my scope clip clip can t clip the rail, what s going on?

It is better to have **, the ** of the clamp, and the ** of the guide rail.

First of all, you have to determine whether your rail is a 20mm wide Picatinny rail (commonly known as a "fishbone") or an 11mm regular dovetail rail, and these measures the width of the rail.

Second, whether the fixture you use is consistent with the guide rail.

Clamps suitable for 11mm dovetail grooves are often referred to as "narrow clamps", that is, narrow mouth clamps; Fixtures suitable for 20mm Picatinny rails are often referred to as "wide clamps", i.e., wide-mouth clamps;

Usually these two kinds of fixtures are fastened with screws and the guide rail is engaged, and they have a certain margin to adapt to the guide rail, so if the fixture is selected correctly, there will generally be no problem that it cannot be clamped to the guide rail.

If your friend's fixture is not wrong, so that it can't be clamped to the guide rail, you might as well use a steel file to polish the clamp mouth, and at the same time polish the guide rail, hehe, moderate!!

If you choose the wrong fixture, you can only buy a suitable fixture. Once you have determined whether the clamp is "narrow" or "wide", be sure to pay attention to the size of your scope diameter!! Usually there are two types of scope pipe diameters, one is the pipe diameter and the other is the 30mm pipe diameter.

When buying a fixture, be sure to tell the size of your scope diameter, otherwise even if the clamp is selected correctly, the diameter of the lens ring of the clamp will not match the pipe diameter. Remember!! (Pipe diameter refers to:

The diameter of the tube section that connects the eyepiece to the middle of the objective. It is the diameter of the part of the scope that the clamp holds. That is, the diameter of the thinner part of the lens barrel) The calculation of the diameter of the tube can be roughly measured with a vernier caliper or a ruler.

Or by pi (in any case I will not choose this painful way).

The picture below shows the narrow clip and the wide clip, the one on the left is the narrow clip, and the one on the right is the wide clip. Pay attention to the difference between the clamp mouths! Click ** for full size.

Qu military supplies store to find it, the clamp has been changed, buy one, remove the scope on it, change it, it's OK, if it doesn't work, loosen the screws or tighten the point, if it doesn't work, tie it with a steel wire, adjust it, my family's like this, although it is not beautiful, but it can also be used.

It needs to be calibrated once it is disassembled and assembled.

Recalibration is required. Even if it's the same location.

If only from a practical point of view, it is enough to match the general 3-9*40 with a pair of 24 inner diameter short clips on the guide rail! If you want to dress up, change to the mark4 type

Here's how to install it:

The first] This is the most ideal state, the optical axis of the scope.

The center and the axis of the barrel are parallel.

1. The center of the optical axis of the scope is parallel to the axis of the barrel, and the axis of the optical sight is parallel to the axis of the barrel.

2. When the closest distance is corrected, when aiming at the distance, you only need to raise the horizontal line in the crosshair of the scope accordingly.

Second] common ideal state.

The center line of the optical axis of the scope has a slight downward inclination angle, which is at a certain angle with the axis of the barrel.

Type 3] The most common mounting state of the scope during shooting.

1. This is a kind of optical aiming axis and ballistic parabola in practice.

In the diagram, you can see that there are two intersections of the optical aiming axis and the ballistic parabola, which are located near and far.

2. Generally in shooting, this installation state is the most common, especially when the scope adjustment range is small, or the curvature of the bullet is too large, this installation mode is commonly used.

3. When realizing such an installation mode, a guide rail is generally required, or the fixture itself has a certain bevel. The angle of the bevel angle is generally determined by the manufacturer, or customized according to the customer's requirements.

Fourth] Sometimes, the user will use some dirt methods to make corrections when the actual shooting is corrected. For example, add a spacer to the clamp at the rear.

One of the fourth error states].

1. The center line of the optical axis of the scope has a slight upward inclination angle, and it is at a certain angle with the axis of the barrel.

2. There are two possibilities for such an installation state, one is the parallelism of the guide rail or fixture during processing.

It is not well controlled, resulting in unnecessary bevels.

Hehe, this guy hasn't played with dogs, the upper aim is very simple, but the school dog is very troublesome, but, the dog is rough and does not take off the handle, even if the upper aim is up to standard, the specific subtlety needs to be trained. No scope is a good one, just where to hit.

The clamp is 20mm clamp, and the short clamp is enough.

The short fixture feels compact and better, and the tall grip feels awkward, but this thing also depends on the mirror you use, for example, if you use a 3-10x50 aim, then you will definitely use the 50mm objective lens to conflict with the gun body.

You need to consider whether your objective diameter will conflict with the gun body when using a low clip.

The above 50mm objective diameter is just an example, not that the 50 diameter cannot be used with a low clip

It's all Picatinny rails....Generally short ones are better....It is suitable for Chinese people to aim.

The 2cm wide standard Picatinny track is just to allow the shell window to cut off part of it to give way to the shell. It can be equipped with a clamp with a clamp of two centimeters.

I don't know if that's what my friend meant.