What are the methods of dressing seedlings with soil balls

With soil. Whether the seedlings of the ball need to be bandaged depends on the size of the soil ball, the tightness of the soil and the distance of transportation. Generally, seedlings with compact soil and small soil balls do not need to be bandaged when transported in close proximity.

Soil balls with a diameter of more than 30 cm should be bandaged to ensure that the soil balls do not disperse. There are many ways to bandage, the simplest is to wrap a straw rope up and down a few times to become a simple bag or "watermelon rind."

Bandaging can also be wrapped in plastic film or straw. In addition, there are three types of tic-tac-toe, five-star and orange wrap (grid format) (Fig. 12). Precious seedlings, the transportation distance is long, the soil is not very solid, and the orange package type is often used.

The soil is solid, the transportation distance is not far, the diameter of the soil ball is about 1 meter, and it can be bandaged in a five-star or tic-tac-toe type.

Fig.12 Common packing methods for soil balls.

When the large soil ball is bandaged, the waist hoop should be tied first, and after the soil ball is trimmed, the straw rope is used to wrap several circles in the middle of it, which is called the waist hoop. It is best to soak the straw rope beforehand to increase the toughness. When tying the waist hoop, two people operate, one person knots the straw rope at the waist of the soil ball and tightens it, and the other person gently pats it with a stone or mallet to make the straw rope embedded in the soil ball to prevent loosening, and each straw rope should be arranged tightly, leaving no gaps and no overlapping.

The width of the waist band is about 10 cm.

When the soil is relatively loose, the excavation ball is easy to loosen, and it should be dug to half the height immediately, and the waist hoop should be tied immediately, and the whole soil ball can not be dug after it is carried out. Before the soil ball is bandaged, a bottom ditch should be dug on the inner side around the soil ball, so that the straw rope can be stuck when packing, so that it will not fall off loosely.

Straw rope is generally used, but woven bags can also be used.

The seedling soil ball wrapping method depends on the size of the soil ball, whether the soil is tight or not, and the distance of transportation. Before packing, the rope should be soaked in water to enhance the toughness of the packaging material and reduce brittleness and breakage caused by bundling.

The diameter of the soil ball is below 50cm, take out the pit and pack it, first soak a suitable size bag and put it on the edge of the pit, hold the soil ball with both hands, put it lightly in the middle of the pouch, and then tie it longitudinally with a wet straw rope to tie the package tightly.

Loose soil and larger soil balls, should be packed in the pit, 2 suitable size wet bags cut straight to the bottom center of the bag from one side, with one of them to the bottom, the other cover the top, the junction of two bags, tie a few straw ropes to make it fixed, and then press the longitudinal bundle of straw ropes. Tie the trunk and stem tightly with soaked straw rope, wrap it around a few times, and then slightly bevel it along the soil ball and the vertical direction (about 30. Bundle the straw rope, during the binding process, you can use stones to beat the straw rope to make the straw rope more firm.

Each straw rope is spaced about 8cm apart until the whole ball is tied. If the diameter of the soil ball is less than 40cm, it is tied with a straw rope, which is called "single strand and single shaft". If the diameter of the soil ball is larger, it is tied twice in the same direction with a straw rope, which is called "single strand and double axis".

If the soil ball is very large, and the diameter is more than lm, it is tied twice with two straw ropes, which is called "double strand and double axis". After the longitudinal straw rope is tied, it is tied at the base of the trunk.

For soil balls with a diameter of more than 50cm, after the longitudinal tether is finished, in order to protect the soil ball, a horizontal straw rope should be tied in the middle of the soil ball, which is called a "tie rope". The method is: another straw rope is tightly wound in the middle of the soil ball, and then the longitudinal and transverse straw rope is connected in tandem with the straw rope obliquely up and down, and the waist rope does not slip off.

All the soil balls packed in the pit, after tying the waist rope, gently push down the seedlings, and use the bag straw rope to wrap the bottom of the soil ball tightly, called "back cover". Method: first dig a small ditch on the side of the pit, and tie the bottom straw rope tightly, cover the soil at the bottom of the soil ball with the straw rope of the bag inserted people, and then push down the seedling towards digging the ditch, adopt the bottom straw rope and the longitudinal straw rope on the opposite side to staggered bundle and tie firmly.

After the soil ball is sealed, it should be immediately out of the pit and ready for transportation, and the digging pit should be filled at any time.

When planting soil ball seedlings, the depth and width of the pit to be planted should be checked to see if it meets the specification standards, and it is not allowed to blindly enter the pit and move the soil ball back and forth.

After the soil ball pit, a small amount of soil should be placed around the bottom of the soil ball, and the soil ball should be fixed, and the body and bottom of the tree should be vertical. If the trunk is bent, it should be bent in the direction of the local wind. Then cut the packing material, withdraw it, then fill the good topsoil to half of the pit, tamp the surrounding area with a wooden stick, and then continue to fill the pit with soil.

Finally, open the weir in preparation for watering. For precious seedlings and seedlings with incomplete soil balls in the original belt and different degrees of dehydration in the root group, it is necessary to use pulp roots and root spraying rooting elements for treatment.

The depth of planting seedlings, generally arbor should keep the soil sinking, the rhizosphere of seedlings is equal to the height of the original planting line, individual fast-growing, adventitious root seedling species can be 5-10cm deeper than the original soil marks, and the soil ball should be slightly higher than the ground 5cm when planting evergreen seedling species, so as to avoid planting too deep or too shallow. If it is planted too deeply, the root system will have difficulty breathing and be prone to root rot; If the planting is too shallow, the root neck is susceptible to low temperature frost damage in winter and high temperature and sunburn in summer, which will affect survival or not conducive to growth.

For the shrubs planted in patches, the topography of the planting area should be full, and the shape of steamed bread is preferred, which not only improves the three-dimensional sense and ornamentality of the shrub group, but also avoids the death of shrubs due to water accumulation (areas with dry season do not have to be treated with terrain).

When the number of seedlings is too large to plant, seedlings that cannot carry mud balls such as gold-leaf privet should be planted first. Before planting, level the land as finely as possible, apply small tools, try not to use shovels, and dig holes according to the size of the soil balls of the plant and plant them, and then cover the soil and tamp it.

When planting, pay attention to the density control to avoid death or poor growth due to over-dense planting. When planting shrub balls, the plump side of the crown should be facing the main ornamental surface, and the grass rope used to disturb the crown should be removed after planting, and the crown should be trimmed to remove broken branches, dead branches, residual flowers and excess leaves, etc., to ensure the integrity of the spherical crown.