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Although the Song Dynasty was relatively open in thought and civilization, the social status of women was still very low, and the social atmosphere of women being conservative had not changed, so women's clothing was also relatively conservative.
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The culture of the Song Dynasty flourished unprecedentedly, but the aesthetic concept changed, they believed that light makeup and elegance were beautiful, and women's clothing gradually became conservative as a result.
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First of all, the physicists of the Song Dynasty advocated that "women are virtuous if they are not talented", which hit women's self-confidence and made them dare not show off, and secondly, the Song Dynasty's imprisonment of women's bodies was also strict, such as binding feet, the body was not free, and of course there was no freedom in wearing clothes.
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Because the status of women in ancient times was greatly discriminated against, and they could only show their skin in front of their husbands, feudal ideas had a profound impact on people's thoughts.
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The Song Dynasty was a very special dynasty in history, in which the political and economic development was extremely rapid and the politics were very enlightened. However, it was very strict in clothing, and it was even more strict for women at that time, not only in dressing, but also very strict in women's etiquette. When we study history, we usually judge the customs and civilization of a dynasty by the costumes of the dynasty at that time, and the costumes also represent the civilization of a dynasty.
Although the economy and politics of the Song Dynasty developed rapidly, the status of women was not improved, and it degraded a lot compared with the previous Tang Dynasty. The clothing of women in the Song Dynasty was very conservative, which can be said to be contrary to the characteristics of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. Although the Song Dynasty was institutionally under the guise of respecting women.
But in fact, it still restricts women's thinking and dressing everywhere, and believes that women should be restrained and conservative. This is not the same as the statement of respect for women at that time, it is useless to only show respect for women in the regulations or just talk, and it is only self-deception to say that you respect women but control women everywhere. <>
At that time, women's clothing was not only very conservative, but also simple in style and plain in color, mostly undyed white. In the former Tang Dynasty, women's clothes were mostly silk and colorful, which also reflected the prosperity and openness of the Tang Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, while the economy and culture developed, the development of clothing color was neglected.
Although the costumes of the Song Dynasty have a lot of references to the costumes of the Tang Dynasty in terms of shape.
but in terms of color, it pays more attention to simplicity and simplicity. <>
At the same time as the development of cultural economy, people's vision is also improving, so the Song Dynasty did not think that the bright colors were not good-looking, but just wanted to distinguish it from the previous dynasty. In addition, in the Song Dynasty, most of them were proud of women's dignified and elegant, so they were relatively unified in clothing and etiquette, thinking that this could show the contemporary etiquette culture. The Song Dynasty advocated simplicity as beauty, and there are similarities with the simplicity that everyone admires now.
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The main reason is that the status of women in ancient times was very low, so they were so harsh to women.
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Although the Song Dynasty was very prosperous, the Song Dynasty was also a feudal society, so it was so harsh on women.
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Because ancient times have always been an era of male superiority and inferiority of women, it was also like this at that time, and it was particularly cruel to women.
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What is the impact of the ** clothing of a thousand years ago on the modern society a thousand years later?
Purple robe**. At first glance, it seems to be a fantasy, but in fact this kind of impact is really there, and the impact is not small.
First of all, we look at the official uniforms of the Song Dynasty, the senior ** wears a purple robe, the intermediate ** wears a red robe, and the low-level ** is a green official robe, which is from Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty.
It was established in the period and inherited and developed in the Tang and Song dynasties.
** Clothing color hierarchy.
Portrait of the Red Robe**.
It is this kind of clothing system that will centralize power.
and the centralization of monarchy has been pushed to a new height, and the higher you go, the stronger the color is, and the fewer people you are.
In fact, the best clothing is not only clothes, but also decorations, which can be called clothing when they are connected together. So what are the decorations of the Sui Dynasty? These are different ** have different decorations, high-level ** jade pendants rewarded by the emperor will be hung on the waist, or enshrined in the ancestral hall, and the spices and the like rewarded by the emperor will be made into sachets and hung on the waist, indicating a kind of identity.
These are a kind of clothing culture, is the Song Dynasty ** unique clothing culture, to the Ming and Qing dynasties are not allowed to do this, the official uniform is the official uniform, no decoration can be placed. In addition, in the costumes of the Song Dynasty, you can see the sewing technology and tailoring skills at that time, and the costumes of the ladies guided the women's clothing culture in the society.
Song dynasty**. At that time, the fabrics used by the people at the bottom were different from those of the dignitaries, but in order to be more comfortable, the craftsmen would design the people's costumes according to the costumes of the dignitaries and dignitaries, and the costumes of the female officials in the palace of the Song Dynasty were the objects of imitation by young women in major cities.
In addition to having an impact on the sewing technology at that time and having an impact on the social clothing culture, these large and small clothing have a significant role in promoting the development of the culture of social tailoring technology. You must know that even if they are simple purple robes and red robes, they will wear a sense of luxury, and this has higher and higher requirements for tailors.
Modern Song style Hanfu.
This technology has been passed down to modern times and has become an intangible cultural heritage.
The folk costumes under the influence of that time constituted the modern Hanfu culture.
The mainstream style, modern Hanfu is mostly taken from the Song and Ming dynasties.
Costumes of the era.
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There was no very big influence, the current costumes were not influenced by the costumes of the time, some of the riding costumes may have been changed according to the costumes of the time, there were some elements, some patterns were influenced by the costumes of the time, and some of the patterns on it were loved by people.
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Many costumes have followed the costumes of the Song Dynasty, the characteristics of the Song Dynasty costumes have been borrowed, and the characteristics of the Song Dynasty costumes have been designed, which has influenced the current design method and the current thinking, there are many costumes that are more similar to the costumes of the Song Dynasty, using the color matching of the Song Dynasty, and the costumes of the Song Dynasty are more popular now.
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The skirt is the main one, the style is roughly the same as the skirt style of the Tang Dynasty, the placket may be influenced by ethnic minorities such as the Khitan and the Jurchen, you can use the right skirt, you can also use the left skirt, shawl, and add a ring ornament to the ribbon in the middle of the waist to press the skirt.
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The style is a top and bottom, and the color of the clothing is softer, and I don't like that bright color, and the cut is more prominent, so it looks very slender.
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In the Song Dynasty, the ** was to wear a narrow sleeved short coat on the upper body, a long skirt on the lower body, and usually wear a long-sleeved small jacket with a placket on the outside of the jacket, much like a vest, and the neckline and placket of the jacket were embroidered with beautiful lace.
The casual clothes of the noble lady are fashionable and thin, slender and long, which is not the same as the previous periods, and the color matching of the clothes also breaks the conventions of the Tang Dynasty based on red and purple, green and blue, and mostly uses a variety of intercolored pink wheel cherry purple, black purple, onion white, silver gray, agarwood color, etc. The color tone is elegant, quiet, and the reasonable use of a relatively high-grade neutral gray tone, and the pattern of clothing and decoration has also been changed from a more regular Tang Dynasty pattern to a sketch of the folded branch pattern, which is more vivid, lively and natural.
Ordinary women, especially working women or servants, still wore narrow-sleeved shirts. It's just thinner and longer than in the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, and the color is mainly white, and the others also have light silk and light blue. Culoos are also relatively thin and short, and the colors are blue and white.
In general, the clothing of women in the Song Dynasty in Laming Cong, in addition to the large-sleeved shirts and fat culottes that were once popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, narrow, thin, long and strange were the main characteristics of women's clothing in this period.
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This is because in the Song Dynasty, the folk customs were very simple, advocating frugality, and the book of friends was also affected in terms of clothing, which was in line with the humanistic characteristics of the accusation at that time.
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Because the Song Dynasty advocated frugality, the folk customs were simple, and there was no prosperity in the Tang Dynasty, and the economic capacity declined, so the clothes became simple.
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Because the Song Dynasty advocated frugality and simplicity, they felt that governing the country in this way could make the country last longer.
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Of course, it has something to do with the ruling class. Song Zu was still simple and promoted the style of diligence and thrift, and the Song people themselves were relatively conservative. The Tang people are so enjoyable and extravagant, so they wear luxurious clothes.
Of course, in fact, ordinary people can't afford to wear such beautiful clothes, and the gorgeous and luxurious clothes of the Tang Dynasty you mentioned are mostly worn by the ruling class and the wealthy. The rulers of Li and Tang were of Xianbei blood and contaminated with Hu Feng, so their clothes were gorgeous and their nature was open. The upward and downward effects, that's all.
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As far as ordinary people are concerned, from the Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, their clothing system is still the same, and if the Tang Dynasty is not compatible with a little Hu Feng, the costumes will be very different.
The Tang Dynasty costumes were luxurious, and the Song Dynasty costumes were simple.
First, it is related to the ruling class, the Tang Dynasty was strong, the rulers were luxuriously dressed, the Song Dynasty was weak, and the perennial disputes with the Western Xia, Liao, Jin, etc. required a lot of military expenditures, and the ruling class was still diligent and thrifty to enrich the treasury. Of course, it is also related to the personal character of the emperors of the Song Dynasty, many emperors of the Song Dynasty advocated the simplicity and naturalness pursued in Taoism, and did not pay attention to ornamentation.
Second, the culture of the Tang Dynasty is mainly aristocratic culture, and the memory of the Tang Dynasty is more than the court murals, ladies' terracotta figurines, etc., and the Tang Dynasty is mostly preserved as a novelty at that time, not the mainstream. The rapid economic development of the Song Dynasty left a lot of information on the culture of the common people, and the culture of the nobility and the culture of the common people were naturally different.
Third, the climate of the Song Dynasty was colder than that of the Tang Dynasty.
Above, welcome to add.
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Because of Cheng Zhu Lixue"The ideological imprisonment and the compromise and concession of foreign policy -- the clothing culture is no longer glamorous and luxurious, but simple and simple. Song Dynasty ** restrained, conservative, elegant and quiet colors, undergarments, gowns"Masking"Enhancement of features, everything"Insolence"It's all converged a lot in an instant. In the Song Dynasty, whether it was the royal relatives of the powerful or the ordinary people, they all loved to wear straight collars and placket backs, because they were comfortable and decent, quick and elegant and generous.
In the Song Dynasty, the ** was to wear a narrow sleeved short coat on the upper body, a long skirt on the lower body, and usually a long-sleeved small jacket with a placket on the outside of the jacket, much like the current vest, the neckline and placket of the jacket are embroidered with beautiful lace. Song Dynasty backs - the usual clothing of women in the Song Dynasty, including the regular clothes usually worn by noble women, most of them are jackets, undergarments, shirts, backs, and halves.
arms, etc., lower body skirts, pants, etc. The back style of the Song Dynasty is a placket, narrow sleeves, and the collar, cuffs, and hem of the placket are inlaid with edge ornaments. The placket is always open, and the sides are not fastened with buttons or ropes, leaving the underwear exposed.
Regarding women's underwear, there are also characteristics of the times, in addition to the close-fitting "bandeau", there is also a "belly circumference". Abdominal circumference is a kind of silk scarf around the waist and abdomen, which is different in complexity and simplicity, and the color is yellow as expensive, and it is called "yellow on the waist". Song Dynasty women's skirt - The style of the Song Dynasty skirt is roughly the same as that of the Tang Dynasty.
Only the placket is different, you can use the right and the left, which may be influenced by the Khitan, Jurchen and other ethnic minorities. The decoration of the body is not complicated, in addition to the shawl, only in the middle of the waist to wear the ribbon to add a jade ring ornament, its function, mainly to suppress the skirt, so that it will not dance with the wind when walking or moving and affect the appearance, the history of the so-called "jade ring ribbon", is this kind of decoration.
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You can check the knowledge of relevant aspects on the Internet and consider it comprehensively.
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