Urgent! Urgent! Urgent! The heating is not hot! The heating at home is not hot, the master enters, o

1. Problem analysis: First, it may be that the gas is trapped, resulting in poor water circulation, so that the radiator is not hot. Second, the pipeline is not plugged. One of them is the most likely.

2. Solution. Since the direction of the heating water is the order in which the toilet - the big house - the kitchen - the hut flows out, the most disadvantageous point of the heating pipe is the hut, that is, where the water flows to the end. Hence the suggestion:

First, to install a drain valve on the radiator of the hut or connect a valve at the end of the water supply pipe for the radiator of the hut to discharge water, you need to find a professional plumber. Second, after installation, drain the water, exhaust the gas, and exhaust the heat. Third, if after the deflation, each group of radiators is only hot for a while, and then it will be cold, indicating that the installation slope of the water supply and return water pipelines or the inlet pressure of the water inlet pipe is insufficient or the return pipe is too thin, please check them one by one.

1.If the pipes are long, they may be partially blocked, so take something hard and knock all the pipes again, maybe it will get better.

2.Someone else's home has a heating change that affects your home.

3.Or is it a matter of air pressure, it may be that there is still unreleased gas in the pipeline. If there is a valve at home, close the valve, install a vent valve on the group of heaters that you are not hot, or directly install a ball valve, and turn on the feed water and return water to see if the gas can come out.

Directly to the property management department, you have formed a supply and demand relationship, they should provide you with services, and when you get it yourself, they still say that you are not doing it right.

The water doesn't flow, change the radiators.

1. Prove whether the water inlet management is blocked: as long as you close the inlet and return valves, put water in the bedroom heating, and the pressure will soon be gone. When the water does not come out, you open the water inlet valve, and if the water comes, it proves that there is no problem with the water supply pipe and valve.

2. The same method can also be used to verify the backwater system.

3. If the inlet and return water are not blocked, it is likely that the inlet pipe and the return pipe are reversed. Of course, it is not excluded that the heat supply side itself is insufficient.

4. The backwater and inlet water are in the same pipe, I don't know what you mean. If you say that you have a good analysis in your home, it is indeed generally a pipe, but this end is close to the water main, and the other end is connected to the water main. If you're talking about the main pipe, that's definitely not true.

The main pipe must be two. One ingress water. A return water.

5. There are three pipes in the bathroom: the public water inlet pipe, the entrance pipe, and the return pipe, which should be the main problem.

I don't know where you live, I can help you take a look for free, if there is no big problem, it is basically done, I believe I can get it right. Waiting for your news.

Try not to release water to the outside, as this will cause a lack of pressure, just deflate. It could also be the reason why other users put hot water or installed heat exchangers.

1. The airtightness and thermal insulation of the room, and the heat loss of the walls and windows all have an impact on the indoor temperature.

Square meter house, 4 circuits, is a bit less, there should be 6 circuits are about the same. If it is a wall-hung boiler, it will definitely not burn hot. If the total number of pipes is sufficient, the fewer the circuits and the longer the meters of a single circuit, the greater the system resistance, the greater the temperature difference between the supply and return water, and the indoor temperature is difficult to rise.

The temperature difference between the supply and return water is about 10 degrees, and your temperature difference has reached 17 degrees.

3. The total height of your backfill layer and tiles is 10cm, which is not thick.

The cause of the sound is that there is an air blockage, or a sharp bend in the elbow. According to what you said, you don't have anyone living in your house, so it's a bit unlucky, because the current floor heating is all floor without insulation, so you have some of the heat dissipated downstairs. If you don't believe me, go down and measure the temperature at least 10 degrees Celsius.

Because the designer designed according to all the heating, but you don't have anyone up and down to 16 good.

The temperature of the inlet and return water is almost normal, look at your picture, whether the radiator is still connected behind the floor heating water divider, and the upstairs and downstairs are not heated to have a great impact on your home.

The shut-off valve cannot be used for heating, because the shut-off valve blocks water and affects the flow rate, which is easy to cause problems.

How is your water separator like this? Wasn't it many years ago? Now we have installed a thermoelectric valve to control the temperature.

Then you don't have a control panel either?。 Try a panel on your home? A room all the way to a thermoelectric valve.

There will be a control panel. Do you have to go to the equipment room every time to adjust the temperature?