Is it suitable for lilies to be planted in yellow mud?

Whether planting lilies in the open field or greenhouse, you should choose fertile and well-breathable sandy soil, which is not suitable for planting in yellow mud!

Here's a simple planting technique for you::

Open field planting In early spring, from March to April, the ground temperature is 5-8, and it can be planted. The planting depth is generally 12 cm, but the diameter of the bulb is 8-14 cm, the depth of the bulb can be planted 10 cm, the plant row spacing is 10-15 20 cm, and the new shoots can break the soil in 3-4 weeks. It takes about 15 weeks from planting to flowering

However, the early and late flowering is related to the variety and light. For cut flower varieties, 10-15 cm are left in the shoots, and the bulbs can also develop and bloom in the next season. Lily bulbs are large and flowering is large; But bulbs used for propagation, with a circumference of 8-12 cm in size, work well.

Planted in greenhouses.

Because lilies need sufficient light and air, plastic greenhouses reduce light transmission by 20-30%, so that only bulbs with a circumference of 12-16 cm can be planted. Before planting, spray 1000 times of 50% Rustyl wettable powder or 1000 times of 70% methyl tobuzine to disinfect the soil. The balls planted in the greenhouse must be frozen, and the planting method is the same as that of open field planting, and the greenhouse temperature should be controlled at 15.

If it is planted on January 15 and blooms around April 20, it can be planted according to the time of flowering. However, it is more difficult to plant in greenhouses to bloom in months, because the light is not sufficient at this time, and the dark or lack of light will make the flower buds shrink and dry up, and it is best not to plant in October-December. If there are low temperature conditions, the bulbs can be planted in a tray to take root and then moved into the greenhouse, so that they can bloom in about 5 weeks.

Potted plants can also be planted in the greenhouse, the pot soil can be prepared with 2 parts of fertile loam, 1 part of coarse sand, 1 part of peat, the pot diameter is 6-8 inches, each pot is 1-2 balls, buried 5-6 cm deep, and can be poured 1 phosphate liquid fertilizer, 3-4 weeks of germination and soil breaking.

Harvest storage of lily bulbs.

Lily bulbs should be harvested later in autumn, not when they are frozen. Be careful when pilling, you must dig 30 cm deep, because the bulb is buried at 12-15 cm, the root should be pulled out together with the ball when pilling, otherwise the bulb is easy to be damaged and infected with diseases, and it is easy to dry up. After lifting, the balls are dried; Because the roots have a lot of soil when digging, they should be rinsed with 5-10 years of water, and the roots and bulbs should be protected when rinsing; After washing, the size of the bad is sorted and stored in the box and some peat soil is added, placed in a well-ventilated room for 5, and after 4 weeks, the temperature drops to 0, and drops to -2 after January 15, if the bulb germinates, there is no growth power.

Transport should be carried out in small boxes, keep 2; The low temperature is maintained for a long time, and the bulb can be dormant for 6-7 months, such as after March 15, the bulb can be kept for one year when the temperature is -3--5.

Not suitable, to have good air permeability soil, peat plus perlite or vermiculite, pine scales and the like are best.

Most of the lilies are planted in the soil. The planting method is as follows:

Soil lilies prefer loose, fertile, well-drained soils. Clay soil and soil that are easy to harden are not conducive to the development of lily bulbs and are also prone to root rot.

Deep lily bulbs are not tolerant to freezing, and the planting depth varies depending on the planting method and region. When cultivated in the south or in pots, the planting depth is 1 times the height of the bulb; In the northern region, the planting depth is 2 3 times the height of the bulb; In areas with a minimum winter temperature of -15, the planting depth is 3 4 times the height of the bulb. The planting should not be too deep, which is not conducive to the excavation of buds.

Planted lilies can be propagated using scales and pearl buds, but it takes 3 to 4 years to bloom. Therefore, the bulb splitting method is usually used. In late autumn, after the aboveground part of the lily has withered, the bulb is dug up, the small bulb next to it is broken, and the bulb is slightly dried and planted in the soil, or it is planted in the spring after being stored in the sand.

Fertilizing lilies is fertiliser-tolerant. Basal fertilizer can be applied at the time of planting, and strong seedling fertilizer can be applied when the seedlings are 10 to 20 cm high after budding, and then the liquid fertilizer can be topdressed at the time of watering every month.

Overwintering lilies wither in autumn aboveground parts. Potted lilies can be cut off the withered stems, placed in a ventilated, higher than 5 and lower 10 position, keep the potting soil not dry to overwinter.

The planting of lilies should be cultivated in sandy loam soil with fertile soil, high terrain, good drainage and loose soil, and heavy clay soil should not be cultivated.

Supplement: Growing Environment:

Lilies like coolness and are more hardy. Poor growth in areas with high temperatures. Likes dryness and is afraid of waterlogging.

If the soil moisture is too high, the bulb will rot and die. The soil requirements are not strict, but in the deep, fertile and loose sandy loam, the bulbs are white in color and thick in flesh. Clay soil is not suitable for cultivation.

The root system is stout and well-developed, and it is resistant to fertilizers.

After the spring unearthing, sufficient nitrogen nutrition and sufficient phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are required, n:p:k=1::1, and the fertilizer should be mainly organic fertilizer. Avoid continuous cropping, 3 4 years rotation, the previous crop to leguminous, grasses crops as well.

Don't use a pot that is too small, at least 20 in diameter, plant it, at least about 5 or 6 centimeters of soil at the bottom, then put the ball, and then cover with soil. Spend more time in the sun, see dry and wet. Water when the soil is dry, and water thoroughly, so that you can see water flowing out from the bottom of the pot.

After planting in spring, it will bloom in two or three months. The lily is a bulbous flower Now it's almost finished blooming The upper part of the flower will wither Relying on the nutrients stored in the bulb below to survive the dormant period When the flower is almost blooming, the upper part will be completely dry Then the landlord can bulb and divide the plant Or bury it in the soil to let it sleep naturally Look at what kind of lily the landlord has The dormancy period of different varieties is not the same But now it is dormant It will not be until May when the bulb below begins to differentiate But it can't be seen by the naked eye When the conditions are suitable, it will grow out In fact, it doesn't have to pill every year And lilies can't be planted continuously, so as soon as you dig it out, then the soil will be replaced again, and I suggest that the landlord should start an autumn in 2 to 3 years, because the bulb below is not very big, and there is no need to pill, just let it sleep naturally, so now the main thing to do is to cut off the withered part.

1.It is best to disinfect before planting lily bulbs, I generally soak it in chlorothalonil or methyl tobuzine 600 times solution for 20 minutes, rinse with water, and dry it before planting. Fill the bottom of the pot with 2-3 cm of soil and place the ball, if it is a pot with three heads, the head of the ball is placed towards the edge of the pot, that is, like the edge of the pot, which can ensure that the plants are evenly distributed after germination.

The top of the ball should be covered with 10 cm of soil, and the minimum should not be less than 5 cm. After planting, water thoroughly and put it in a cool place to take root.

2.Usually keep it moist, that is, grasp a handful of soil with your hands, pinch it hard, and there is water oozing out of the finger hail but not dripping. Don't overwater, too much water is easy to rot the roots, watering it thoroughly, not just half of the water.

Tap water can only be used after a day or two. The air humidity should reach 60-80%, and the humidity should be stable, if the humidity difference is too large, it is easy to get leaf burn, especially during the period from the beginning of the flower bud to the flowering. At home, you don't need to bother so much, just spray water twice in the morning and evening.

I usually blow it with a humidifier. ）

3.Fertilization: The amount of fertilizer applied to the lily is not large, if the family is planted and played, it is generally fertilized once every half a month, I use bottled liquid fertilizer, if the conditions allow, it is better to use organic fertilizer.

The book is more complicated, to apply foliar fertilizer before the 22nd day after germination, with urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, after 22 days, Lu Cha mainly applies water fertilizer, once every 3-5 days, with potassium nitrate, magnesium sulfate, boric acid, potassium nitrate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate and so on during the flower bud expansion period, I think it is too troublesome, or use liquid fertilizer to save trouble).

Why does it die and the leaves turn yellow before they grow?

OK. Lilies can survive the winter in the soil sooner or later, and when the temperature rises, they can grow teeth.

Whether it is white lily or golden lily in the reed, it has the characteristics of cold resistance, light love, fertilizer resistance, and moisture tolerance, and the suitable temperature for growth is 12 18.

In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3 5, it will not die of cold.

If there is a lack of sunlight, prolonged shade can affect normal flowering. However, they have a wide range of adaptability to the region, and can be planted or potted in various places in the north and south.

Because it is a bulbous plant, it can be sown directly with the seed head, and it is required to sow to a depth of six or seven centimeters, so that the lateral roots can be deeply rooted and absorb as many nutrients as possible.

The required planting material is better for sandy loam, not clay and limestone. If pond mud is used for planting, it should also be appropriately mixed with some river sand and charcoal crushed to make the planting material loose and breathable in order to bloom in time.

Lilies can survive the winter normally in the soil, and when the temperature rises, they can grow teeth.

OK. 1.Watering method of jasmine farming.

Proper watering is the key to the growth of potted jasmine. If you water too much, the leaves will suddenly turn yellow; The potting soil is too wet for a long time, resulting in poor soil aeration, resulting in rotten roots, yellowing and falling off leaves, and causing plants to die. If the root rot is caused by excessive watering, you can move the pot to a cool place, stop fertilization, control watering, and loosen the soil frequently, so that the potting soil is well aerated and promotes the germination of new roots.

2.Fertilization method for jasmine farming.

Jasmine has a long wilting period and needs more fertilizer, so the fertility of the potting soil should be sufficient. It is necessary to master the principle of thin fertilizer and frequent application, especially in the flower bud formation stage. However, too much fertilizer and too dense fertilizer can easily cause root rot.

The fertilization time is better in the evening, the potting soil should be loosened before application, and the fertilization should not be applied when the potting soil is too dry or too wet, and the best effect is applied when the potting soil is half wet. Jasmine likes acidic soil, and can be used as top dressing with water-soluble fertilizer for vines. From the beginning of budding in spring, to the end of September, the rotten thin cake fertilizer should be applied once every 7 10 days, with a concentration of 15 20;

During the flowering period of pregnant buds, thin fertilizer should be applied frequently, and thin fertilizer should be applied once every 5 7 days, with a concentration of 10 15. When fertilizing, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be increased, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate or superphosphate liquid of vine leaves can be added to the cake fertilizer solution to promote flower bud differentiation; If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied for a long time, the phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is small, which is easy to make the plant form and grow, affect the formation of flower buds, and cause no flowering or very little flowering. Fertilization should be stopped from October onwards to increase the maturity of shoots and facilitate overwintering.

3.Pruning method of jasmine farming.

Jasmine is generally pruned indoors in early to mid-March each year, and repotting is carried out at the same time. When pruning, the branches can be left 20 cm long, and the rest should be cut off; Old shoots should be cut off from the base to allow them to re-germinate strong new shoots. At the same time, it is necessary to prune overly dense branches, long branches, weak branches and remove old leaves.

Jasmine can generally bloom in the same year after planting, and the 3 6-year-old plants bloom the most, and then they will age year by year, and they need to be re-pruned and renewed in time. During the growth period, the long branches that originate from the rhizosphere should be pruned as early as possible so as not to affect the flowering of other flower branches.

OK. Jasmine prefers slightly acidic soils, with some peat soil added and well-rotted manure.

The soil used for planting lilies should be fertile and soft, and do not use it if the stickiness is too large.

You can buy nutrient soil in the flower market, or mix humus, coconut peat and river sand to prepare and use.