Brown lines appear one after another on the orchid leaves, and one leaf tip is also withered What sh

How many problems do you encounter when re-maintaining orchids?

Orchids often have leaf tips dry up, and even whole leaves withered, the first orchid flower friends do not know what to do, orchid leaf tips dry is mainly due to orchid anthracnose and round spot disease, orchids suffer from frost damage or late frost damage, but also easy to form leaf tips dry or discolored, let's look at the specific solutions.

One is caused by orchid anthracnose and round spot disease. This disease occurs in large numbers during the rainy season or during the summer and autumn seasons when it is hot and rainy. The solution is to spray 50% carbendazim 1000 times solution or 50% cloxindan 500 times solution in the prone period, 1 time in 10 days, spray 3-4 times in a row.

In addition, when orchids suffer from frost damage or late frost, they are also prone to dry up or discoloration of leaf tips. Therefore, in areas where the temperature is below 0 in winter, the orchids should be moved indoors for ventilation and maintenance in a sunny place before winter. When moving outside in spring, take care to avoid the damage of late frost.

The traditional test of "no wind in spring, no day in summer, no dry in autumn, and impure and pure burial in winter" is good for preventing the drying up of orchid leaves.

For the orchid leaves that have dried up at the tip of the leaves, if the situation is not too serious, you can use manual pruning, with scissors (preferably sterilized by alcohol) according to the shape of "" cut off about 10 mm below the dry part, so that the pot can still be kept green, if pruning and then spray fungicide is better.

Note: "No wind in spring, no day in summer, no dry in autumn, and no wet in winter" means that you should not move outdoors too early in spring to avoid strong winds; In summer, it should be properly shaded to prevent sun exposure; In autumn, it is necessary to water frequently to prevent drought among ants; In winter, the potting soil should not be too wet to prevent freezing and root rot.

This is characteristic of anthracnose in orchids.

Symptoms: Orchid anthracnose is caused by the infection of anthrax bacteria, with the most severe damage from the leaves, and other organs can also be affected. In the early stage of the disease, reddish-brown or black-brown round or oval spots appear in the middle of the leaves, and the leaf margins are semicircular.

As the lesions expand, many of the smaller spots heal to form large, rippling or striped black-brown spots. If the leaf tip is diseased, the lesion spreads downward, causing the leaf to die in sections; If the base of the leaf is diseased, it will cause the whole leaf to die. In the later stage of the disease, the lesions look like a wrea, and the central color of the lesions becomes lighter and grayish-white, and longitudinal cracks appear on some lesions.

Pathogenesis: Anthrax pathogens began to infect the old leaves of orchids in early April, expanded rapidly from May to June, aggravated in the rainy season, and gradually stopped after July. The new leaves of the orchid begin to develop at the end of July and develop rapidly in August.

If a typhoon hits at this time, it will cause injuries to the leaves and plants, which will aggravate the disease. The pathogen of orchid anthracnose can survive for 9 months on the foliage and more than a year in the plant, even if the pathogen is scattered on the topsoil of the potting soil where the orchid is planted, it can live for about a year. So once you get sick, if you don't do it, the disease will happen year after year.

Prevention and control methods: first of all, we should strengthen the cultivation and management of orchids, and the orchids raised indoors should be ventilated and transparent to reduce the environmental humidity, and the outdoor open field cultivation should be built to avoid exposure and the attack of storms. Orchids should not be planted too densely, and a certain distance should be kept between pots.

Watering should be done slowly on the potting soil to avoid spreading the bacteria downward due to the whole plant. In winter and early spring of the following year, special attention should be paid to keeping warm and not suffering frost damage and frost damage, so as to enhance their ability to resist diseases. Early onset.

Diseased leaves can be cut off to inhibit the spread of the disease. Pesticide prevention and control can be sprayed in the rainy season and the typhoon season from July to September, spraying 50 times of carbendazim wettable powder 500 times or 50 times of 50 times of tobuzin wettable powder on sunny days, spraying once in about 10 days, and spraying 3-4 times in a row.

Most of the blackening of orchid leaves is caused by fungal diseases, and then there are fattening, medicine injuries and insect drugs, as long as the mesophyll cells of orchid leaves are damaged, the leaf tissue at the damaged site will rot, so that the leaves appear black spots or patches.

The leaves of the orchid have black-brown spots and are more fat, and the tips of the leaves are dry and less ventilated.

The tip of the orchid leaves begins to wither and turn yellow.

The reason for self-blackening is because of root rot symptoms. bai

The main reasons for orchid root rot are du.

1. When watering, excessive rain or poor drainage of the potting soil structure, 2. Sometimes the invasion of pathogens will also lead to rotten roots and rotten roots, resulting in yellowing, shriveling, falling off of orchid leaves and easy to induce black spot disease.

Sometimes even the reeds rot or even die.

**Solution: 1. Change the pot as soon as possible:

To change the soil again, the planting material on the pot, the planting material should pay attention to the quality and water absorption performance, the fire soil or dry soil, charcoal and other planting materials are good, and the roots and reeds are appropriately covered with some coarse sand, and the effect is better.

2. Control the sunshine.

During the period of changing pots, it can be exposed to the scorching sun, so it should be placed in a place with shade and air circulation, and it should be noted that the wind should be too strong to avoid being affected;

3. Pay attention to the method of changing potted plants.

In addition to ensuring that the potting soil is permeable and water-permeable, the lower part of the reed head is close to the root, and the outer planting material should be dense, and the reed head should be planted appropriately deeper, which not only plays a protective role, but also prevents the reed head from shaking or floating off the soil surface and rotting the roots.

Fourth, reasonable watering.

Cultivation management should strictly regulate the water use, and the potting soil should be semi-wet and dry, which can not only see white and dry but also obviously too wet.

In case of rain, it should be moved to a sheltered place, and try to grasp the moisture of the potting soil to ensure its normal rooting.

What is the reason for the yellowing, black, and dry tips of orchids? Want to know or not?

The roots of the flowers are rotten! Note; Orchids can't be watered too often!!

Orchids are fleshy roots, as long as there is a problem with the roots, it will be the first time to react on the leaves, the scorched tip of the leaves you say must be the root of the water, not ventilated and breathable, as for the fork, it is estimated that it is to touch something else or often be scraped before the fork.

Black spots grow on orchid leaves, and the leaf tips begin to turn yellow and then turn black, and how to deal with them, which is a symptom of rotten roots.

The main cause of root rot in orchids is nothing more than improper watering, excessive rain, or unreasonable structure of potting soil, poor drainage, and sometimes the invasion of germs will also lead to root rot. The rotten roots cause the orchid leaves to turn yellow, shrivel and fall off, and are easy to induce black spot disease, sometimes even the reeds are rotten, and even the whole plant dies.

Orchid roots are fleshy roots, and only when the humidity is relatively balanced, can the orchid roots play the role of absorbing nutrients and transporting nutrients. So, how to deal with rotten roots? One is to change the pot as soon as possible, to change the soil on the pot on the planting material, the planting material should pay attention to the quality and water absorption performance, to fire soil or dry soil, charcoal and other planting materials as well, can also be properly mixed with some coarse sand in the root reed, the effect is better; The second is to control sunshine.

For a period of time after changing the pot, it should not be exposed to the scorching sun, and should be placed in a place with shade and air circulation, but it should be noted that the wind should not be too strong to avoid being affected; The third is to pay attention to the method of changing potted plants. In addition to ensuring that the potting soil is permeable and water-permeable, the planting material from the lower part of the reed head to the outside of the root should be dense, and the reed head should be planted appropriately deeper, which not only plays a protective role, but also prevents the reed head from shaking or floating off the soil surface. Rotten roots and shrunken and yellowing leaves should be cut off to reduce nutrient loss, so that the nutrients of the reed head can be stored to maintain root development; Fourth, reasonable watering.

In the cultivation management, the water should be strictly regulated, and the potting soil should be semi-wet and dry, neither white and dry in the potting soil, but also not obviously too wet. In case of rain, it should be moved to a sheltered place, and try to grasp the moisture of the potting soil to ensure its normal rooting.