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Very simply, the working current of the motor is to choose series connection, so the voltage that needs to be divided is 220-12*2=198V, and the corresponding resistance is 198V, and the resistance of 400 ohms is OK.
It's best to try it with a resistance box first, after all, there is a certain danger.
Dizzy, Yang Xiaoyue also said that I was wrong. For the first time, I saw that when calculating the resistance of a motor, I directly divided the voltage by the current. r=u a is only a calculation formula for the resistance of a pure resistive circuit, not a definitive formula, and it is unlikely to be applicable to all circuits.
The circuit containing the motor is a non-pure resistive circuit because not only a small part of the work done by the current is converted into internal energy, but most of the work is converted into the mechanical energy of motion.
According to what Yang Xiaodian said is 24 ohms, when the current is, the power used for heating alone reaches Q=i R=6W, and the rated power of the motor is also P=12V, that is to say, there is no energy converted into mechanical energy, that is to say, the motor is not rotating, dare to ask whether the soldering iron or the motor at that time.
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First, the motor resistance is 12 = 24 ohms.
220V (24 ohms + series resistance value R) = rated.
r=416 ohms.
The summer calculation is wrong!! Just use it for 400 euros! It's no problem if the motor has its own redundancy.
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Look at what product you're going to do. If the requirements are high, the string capacitor or inductor can only reduce the voltage without increasing the excess loss. If you want to make it simple, the string resistor will increase the excess loss, so the cost is small but the cost is high.
You can calculate the parameters of the string yourself! Simple.
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How much power is your micromotor, and the resistance is very cheap.
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Add a sliding rheostat or resistance box! I don't know what the resistance of the micro TV you are talking about! After reading it yourself, calculate the resistance value that should be added.
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This capacitor serves three purposes. The first is to eliminate or reduce the sparks generated when the relay contacts are turned on and off, so as to achieve the purpose of protecting the contacts. The second is to use the charge and discharge of capacitors to achieve the purpose of improving the output voltage waveform.
The third is to reduce the interference to other electrical appliances when the contact switch is made.
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The capacitors are spark-free and anti-interference.
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This capacitor is used to absorb the instantaneous pulse spark generated when the contacts open and close! At the same time, pulsed radiation interference is eliminated!
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The function of the capacitor is to use it as a balancing voltage to make the voltage more stable.
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You mean the 12V DC power supply required to connect the four white LED lights in series?
First of all, you need to see how much power your LED light has, that is, how much current is needed. If it is 1 watt, the current is 350mA. If it is a 3 watt one, the current is 750 mA.
Under normal circumstances, you can buy a 12V1A switching power supply, (test the voltage before connecting, if it is higher than the hour.) It should be adjusted down, because the LED works above, the attenuation will be very fast, and the life will be several times shorter. ), press the positive pole to connect to the positive pole, and the reverse connection does not light up.
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It depends on whether the power input of the LED light you buy is 12V, and if so, you need to connect a transformer. A DC lamp will burn out if it is directly connected to a 220V lamp.
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Normal, if you turn off all the electrical appliances, or unplug them, and then go to measure the voltage, you will know that it is normal or not, if it is not normal, there must be hidden leakage,
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The multimeter test is 12v This is undoubtedly correct, what digital pen bullshit, don't be confused by this thing. The switching power supply is due to the parasitic coupling between the safety capacitors or coils, and the parasitic coupling between the transformer power coils will always have some induction, which is normal.
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In the case of a universal meter, a digital electric pen is not good, and induced electricity or static electricity has a great impact on it.
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You have such a power supply when you use 12V. 220 is to look at l and n
12v you look at v+com— (plus or minus).
However, LEDs are all used 5V... 12 basically none.
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The LED screen is mostly 5V.
A 5V 200W power supply will do.
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19, 44, n are not suitable. The 12V fan uses direct current.
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Nineteen of them! It's just to be able to do it normally! Each fan is assigned to 11 or 2 volts! Don't go in tandem less! The voltage is too high, otherwise it will burn out the fan! There is also to ensure the normal dispersion of the fan!
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220 12, theoretically 19 in series. If there are too many in series, the voltage of each fan is too low and may not work properly.
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Find an old computer power supply, hard disk interface, the yellow line is 12V, the black wire is negative, and you can drag 120W electrical appliances. I guess that's what I want to know. View the original post
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Buy a power conversion box, at most a dozen yuan, and get it right away! ~~
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The transformer is another kind of AC that converts AC into Qingnajube, judging from your description, it is necessary to be sensitive to DC 12V power supply, not AC 12V power supply, you can buy a 220-12V DC power supply, but also pay attention to the output power of the power supply should be large enough, otherwise the subwoofer can not achieve the desired effect, and even cannot be disassembled.
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It's good to change the interface of the change of the branch press yourself.
If you can't laugh at it, just break the thread yourself and wrap it around with duct tape.
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