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All clubs placed in the barrel have the head down and the interface up. The hind limbs are also interface upward. That's how the most professional put it.
Make your own clubs:
The white steel pipe used as a white steel handrail, with a diameter of 200mm, is on the line, (the thin wall is easy to get out of the pit, the thick wall is too heavy, according to personal preference), intercept two sections, 650mm and 150mm each section, and then when welding the stair handrail at the construction site, ask the worker to help weld the two plugs, which is argon arc welding, and there are no welding traces at all after grinding, and then weld a folding sheet and a lock, and then use two round extruded plastic boards to plug into the two ends, (thickness 10mm on the line), the most difficult is the inner tank, Use two waste clubs, simulate the position of the clubs, and then wrap a layer of plastic film on the surface, be sure to wrap it tightly, and then put it into the tube, and finally fill it with about three cylinders of styrofoam, fill the gaps, and after the foam is cured, the waste club will be pulled out, and the hole will be formed, and then use the wallpaper knife to cut the extra foam, in order to look good, you can wrap the exposed foam part with flannel, in this way, a unique rod is born, take it out very windy, many people also ask is bought in **, hehe, You can also find a friend to paint it, mine is afraid of wearing out after painting, so I collected it, in fact, there is a layer of varnish on the surface after painting, which will not be worn out easily.
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Do you do it yourself? I have made a pole myself, I feel very good, I can share, I am doing construction, there are a lot of corner materials on hand, used as a white steel pipe for white steel handrails, with a diameter of 200mm, (when the thin wall is bumped, it is easy to get out of the pit, the thick wall is too heavy, according to personal preference), intercept two sections, 650mm and 150mm each section, and then when welding the staircase handrail at the construction site, ask the worker to help weld the two plugs, it is argon arc welding, and there are no welding traces at all after grinding, Then weld a fold and a lock, and then use two round extruded plastic boards to stuff into the two ends, (thickness 10mm on the line), the most difficult is the inner tank, with two waste clubs, simulate the position of the club, and then wrap a layer of plastic film on the surface, must be tightly wrapped, and then put into the cylinder, and finally fill with about three cylinders of styrofoam, fill the gap, after the foam is cured, the waste club is pulled out, the hole is formed, and then the extra foam is cut with a wallpaper knife, in order to look good, you can use flannel to wrap the exposed foam partIn this way, a unique rod was born, and it was very windy to take it out, many people also asked to buy it in **, hehe, you can also find a friend to paint it, mine is afraid of being worn out after painting, so it is collected, in fact, there is a layer of varnish on the surface after painting, which will not be worn out easily, but it is still a little reluctant to use it by hand. Share what you have made yourself, and I hope you can give me advice.
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All clubs placed in the barrel have the head down and the interface up.
The hind limbs are also interface upward.
That's how the most professional put it.
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The clubhead is facing up and the interface is facing up. I've used it.
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Standard grip:
It is gently held from the top of the club downwards. If the little finger is also holding the club, it is likely that the action will be deformed and the accuracy will be affected when the thumb, index finger and middle finger and ring finger are gently gripped, while the little finger and palm of the hand seem to be touching the club but not touching the club. If you can hold the club correctly, your elbows and wrists must be perpendicular to the club.
In addition, when you do the whipping movement, you have to use your elbow as the center and your wrist swing back and forth like the pendulum of a clock, so you have to pay attention to the position of your face when you are in the right position to aim. The so-called correct position of the face is to place the center of the face above the club so that it can be aimed correctly. The key to maintaining a stable posture is to keep the foot in balance with the center of gravity of the body, and the structure of the left hand should be placed smoothly on the line between the right hand grip and the cue ball.
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1. The scaffold must be stable.
The left hand (the right hand is also OK, depending on personal habits) is slightly opened on the countertop, except for the thumb accident, the other fingers are contracted to the palm, the palm is raised, and the thumb is close to the tiger's mouth. This is the basic scaffolding, and the general beginners use this kind of scaffolding, and there is also a phoenix eye scaffolding. (This is generally used more than nine balls).
2. Stand in a correct posture.
Take the right hand grip as an example) the right foot is straight and at 90 degrees to the table, the left foot is 45 degrees forward to the left and the step is about 30 cm (depending on the height of the individual, the higher the height, the distance between the left and right feet) The left foot is slightly bent and the body is leaned forward.
3. The grip should be correct.
Take the right hand grip as an example) The distance between the hand frame and the cue ball is generally the distance between the thumb and the middle finger, which is too close to the force, too far is not conducive to the transmission of the force. The tail of the right hand grip is generally set aside at 15-20 cm, and the thumb and index finger are generally used to grip the club when gripping the club, and the remaining three fingers hold the club lightly mainly for an auxiliary role (if the full grip is not conducive to the power of the club), the big arm is parallel to the body, the dribbling is the main forearm movement to drive the club (the forearm naturally sags, swings freely back and forth), and the big arm generally does not move when serving.
The above is the basic billiards posture and grip, I hope it can help you!!
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It can't be changed. The length of the rod barrel of 2 1 is about 75-80 centimeters, and the price is not very expensive, thirty or forty yuan.
You can send it to a friend who plays billiards next to you, or dispose of it cheaply.
Then he shouted Qiao Xiao again to buy a three-quarter rod barrel with a length of 120 cm.
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3 4 clubs are that long. The rod can't be changed, so discuss with the seller if you can exchange it.
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This shouldn't be changed, can't it be returned? Or buy another nine-club match
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Generally, vertical is chosen, which can save space and is easy to choose.
It is not impossible to put it flat, but generally put a lot of oil together, which is easy to cause deformation, and of course, it depends on the material of the club.
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Vertical, for sure.
The specific placement will not have an impact.
Touched n poles without indicating the placement conditions.
Feel free to use it.
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Billiard cues should be hung vertically (special hooks can be bought).
As for the rod barrel, it doesn't matter.
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Billiard cues have leather heads, chocolates, rod oil, rod cloth, rod boxes, rod barrels, sandpaper, extension handles, sleeves, boom devices, back bars, leather head pressers, rack rod heads, glue, rod frames, rod protection sleeves and other accessories.
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Leather head, chocolate, rod oil, rod cloth, rod box, rod tube, sandpaper, knife, lengthening handle, sleeve, boom device, back bar, leather head device, pole head, glue, pole frame, rod protective sleeve, etc. Zhengzhou Oriental Billiards.
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Rod box (barrel, rack).
Rub the rod with cloth rod oil.
Lengthen the handle, back handle.
Qiao Fan (Qiao Fan Clip).
Leather head dresser boom device.
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There are some, such as extension rods, sleeves (also used for lengthening) wiping cloths, special oil for maintenance, boom devices, etc.
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There is no such rod barrel.
There are generally three sizes of rod barrels or rod boxes.
Only 2 of 1 club size can be installed.
The length is about 120 cm of the size of 4 to 3.
There is also a club with a length of about 160 cm.
A 2 1 club and a 4 3 club can only be packed into a 160 cm double slot through box.
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The rod box is slightly better, not easy to shake, the inside is more fixed, the rod barrel can be carried, maybe it is more beautiful on the outside, but it will shake inside, in fact, it has no effect, it is almost the same.
The first is the weight, I like to use a heavier rod; The second is length, if you are shorter, it is not suitable for a long rod, the third is straightness, a good rod should be part of a standard cone, and the fourth is the leather head, the size and thickness should be paid attention to. >>>More
Both glue and leather are consumables and need to be purchased separately. (2) The main tools are: file, sand paper, paper cutter and leather head retainer. >>>More
300 is too much for this ** pole. If you buy it in a physical store, it will be better. You can't touch it on the Internet, you can't try it, the club is not like anything else, it's the feel. >>>More
The big head has a large contact ball area, and it is very convenient to play and rotate, and the small head is accurate, and I think the novice still has a small head bar first.
The answer on the first floor is already very detailed. To add, there is a little hairiness on the skin, which can increase friction, so the part is too careful. In terms of maintenance, since the club is wooden, it is most afraid of water. >>>More