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Hello, as far as you described, it is very likely that the power of the water heater is too high, which causes the wires to overheat, and long-term use leads to the aging of the line insulation. Because the water heater is a high-power electrical equipment, if the wire diameter is not enough (requiring the use of copper wire of more than 4 square millimeters), long-term use will cause the line insulation to deteriorate due to overheating, and the air switch will trip due to leakage. If you live in a building, the circuits in the house are all in the same line.
It may be that there is a short circuit in the line used by the water heater and the TV. Because when the water heater is used, the line is overheated, the insulation is reduced, and the TV line next to it is short-circuited, because the air opening of the water heater is generally greater than that of the TV, so the air opening of the TV will jump open. In general, in this case, we will first use a megohmmeter to shake the insulation of the line (disconnect the line at home from the meter) to see if the insulation is good.
If you don't have the common sense of an electrician, it is recommended that you find a professional to deal with it. It is recommended to call the power supply bureau at 95598 national 24-hour power supply service**, because the line at home is the user's personal property and may charge some fees.
The State Grid Corporation team will answer for you, I hope it can be helpful to you!
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The cross-section of the inlet line is too small, after the load increases, the power supply voltage is low, and the starting current of the refrigerator increases, resulting in the overload protector acting and tripping.
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Look at how your line is connected, how can the water heater jump if it is not connected with the TV, computer, refrigerator, and the switch.
If you want to jump, it is also the gate jump of the water heater.
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What you describe is only a superficial phenomenon, how to control your circuit, what type of air opening is it, you can only ask an experienced electrician to check it in person.
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I want to help you, but your description is messy and I can't understand it!
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The resistance of the 6mm aluminum wire is too large, resulting in excessive voltage drop between the line and the transformer.
The total current of the 8 lamps is more than 30A.
Solution: 1 Replace the transformer with higher power.
2. Replace the 24V wire with a larger cross-sectional area.
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The line is long, the wire diameter is thin, the line loss is large, and the voltage drop is large.
What is the voltage at both ends of the measuring lamp?
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You connected the wire wrongly, and now it must be connected in series, just change it to parallel.
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1. 2. 3700(ω)3.
The magnitude of the capacitive current is proportional to the rate of change of the capacitor voltage; And there is a partition DC. The effect of communication is related to the area of the plate, the distance, and the type of interpolar medium 47 micro-methods and 3 micro-methods 5
375(v) 6. 2v 7.Maximum, angular frequency, initial phase.
8.In a three-phase circuit, the terminal voltage between each phase of the power supply and the load is called the phase voltage. The voltage between the two ends is called the line voltage.
9.The work done by the electric field force to move the positive charge Q from point A to point B is AAB, then the voltage from point A to point B in the electric field UAB = AAB q The ratio of the work done by the power supply force to move the positive charge of the charge Q from its negative pole to the positive pole is called the electromotive force of the active element. The difference is that the direction is reversed, 10
The directional movement of charged particles can form an electric current.
The intensity of an electric current is a physical quantity that measures the strength of an electric current.
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Absolutely not, you will be criminally responsible for a safety accident in the future!
In addition, the efficiency is also low, and the electrical loss is large.
It also affects the electrician to find the reason for the entire line.
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You're installing a voltage regulator and you're good to go.
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For the accuracy of the wiring, you'd better measure it with a multimeter. For example, for example, 11 1 when the switch does not turn on the light does not turn on, press the switch, 11 1 is turned on, so that 11 1 and control a light, just for example, it may be 11 and other numbers to form a switch combination. If the switch you bought has a wiring diagram on it, you can send it and I will tell you about it.
If there is no wiring diagram, you can only use a multimeter to measure it before you dare to connect, otherwise if you don't connect it correctly, it may damage the line in case of a short circuit.
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I'm sorry, I forgot all the books about this, I don't know where they went, they were all things I learned in Hengcong 6 or 7 years ago, and then I used the electrician major.
But I know the title of the book is called Electrician Foundation.
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1.A physical quantity that indicates the strength of a magnetic field.
2.But the number of repentant magnetic lines through the bit area is called the magnetic flux.
3.The phenomenon of induced current in the closed coil due to the change in the magnetic flux of the closed coil is called electromagnetic induction. The kinetic force that generates an induced current in the electromagnetic induction is called induced electromotive force.
4.The wire cuts the magnetic inductance line, or the magnetic flux of the closed coil changes.
5.The right-hand rule or Lenz's law will do.
6.It is the electromotive force generated by the magnetic field generated by two or more coils of each other and the interaction of each other.
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A reasonable wiring should be a switch outside the bathroom door to control the lights of the bathroom (or the lights on the bath bomb), and there is a three-open switch box inside the bathroom to control the two sets of lights and exhaust fans of the bath bomb respectively. The switch on the five holes should be the mirror headlight.
The 5 wires of the bath bomb are two sets of light wires, the exhaust fan fire wire, and the lighting light fire line and N line.
The three-open switch box to the bath bomb is 3 live wire control lines, and the n line is not through the three-open switch box, directly to the bath bomb, so you can take a look at how many lines are left on the roof for the bath bomb, at least 4, it may also be 5, 5 is right.
If there are only 4 roots, ask the decoration company how to think about it, ask them to solve it, and add a thread, because it is their responsibility. If you can't add wires, you can only sacrifice the lights on the bath bomb, the mirror front lamp in the bathroom, and the three-open switch box to control the two sets of lights and exhaust fans of the bath bomb respectively.
But use a switch outside the bathroom door to control the total power supply of the whole bathroom, it seems that it should not be, the total power is larger, a rocker switch (usually 10A) to control the total power supply is a bit nervous, and the switch of the light should be outside the door.
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All-in-one machine?? If you want to engage in intelligent management, these things are all machines that cheat money, and they are nothing more than a few relays, which are not practical at all! When there is a problem with the circuit, you have to make money (only change) The circuit wiring in your bathroom is very reasonable, that is, the common home circuit, according to my opinion, the circuit has been fixed, and the control line is all inside, if it is outside, it will be easy to do, or take all the control lines to the bathroom ceiling (the all-in-one machine is also installed) is OK, but it is best not to use the all-in-one machine
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Instead of five live wires, a total of five wires are required. It should be able to be attached. The outside switch controls the lighting, and the inside three switches control two heating channels and one exhaust channel.
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The all-in-one already includes exhaust, air, heating and lighting, so you can use your three open and reserve three wires as the power cord of the all-in-one machine.
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The outside is equipped with a leakage switch. The inner can only be merged. You said yes it should be a three-position switch. However, the electric water heater is still durable with an empty opening. If you don't understand, it's better to find an electrician.
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It should be to the place where the mechanical part is stuck at that position, causing the motor to be overloaded, the thermal relay to act, and the contactor line is disconnected and cannot be engaged.
If it stops every time it rises to the general level, and the operation descends normally, it means that it is the limit problem of the elevator going up, and the limit needs to be adjusted when it has touched the limit halfway up.
It can be known that the switch button and contactor should be good, the biggest problem is whether there is something stuck on the limit switch or wire rope, or you reach the position where you stop, press and hold the contactor by hand to let the car go up at the same time, and then wait for that position and then let go of the contactor, only press the button, if you can continue to go up, it means that the limit is good, the biggest possibility is that there may be foreign objects on the rope.
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From your description, you can know that the switch button and contactor should be good, the biggest problem is whether there is something stuck on the rope on the limit switch or wire rope, or you reach the position where you stop and hold the contactor with your hand to let the car go up at the same time press and hold the button, and then wait for that position and then let go of the contactor, only press the button, if you can continue to go up, it means that the limit is good, the biggest possibility is that there may be foreign objects on the rope.
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Try if the limiter is in good condition. Disconnect the power supply, and use a multimeter to check whether the normally open and normally closed points are in good condition.
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