How to learn to prune fruit trees and how to prune fruit trees?

Reasonable plastic pruning can control the tree potential, improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the canopy, adjust the balance between the tree and the tree, promote the formation of flower buds, increase the fruiting part, avoid the phenomenon of large and small years, prolong the fruiting life of the tree, and achieve the purpose of stable yield, high yield and high quality. However, if it is managed extensively or left alone, it will often cause the peripheral branches to be densely crowded, the inner chamber to be bald, and the resulting parts to move outward. Reasonable pruning can make the tree compact shape, evenly distributed branches, and reasonable structure.

At present, the tree shapes commonly used in production include natural round head shape, evacuation layered shape, open heart shape, etc. The pruning of apricot trees has different emphasis at different ages. 1 Young Tree Stage The young tree stage is vigorous and easy to form strong branches, and the main task of pruning is to shape and expand the canopy, both to cultivate a good tree structure and to take into account early yield.

Therefore, pruning should be light and not heavy, to thin, moderate summer budding, topping, planting seedlings at 60 80 cm for shortening, the purpose of the branches to retain, when the branches grow to 80 cm when the topping, temporary branches at 60 cm when topping, in order to promote the development of short branches, the formation of fruiting branches. 2 Fruiting period Apricot trees planted for 2 to 3 years will soon be able to blossom and bear fruit and form a yield. The purpose of pruning is to continue to do a good job of shaping, enlarging the canopy and cultivating as many fruiting branches as possible.

During winter pruning, the backbone branches at all levels are stubbed at the full buds, and the upright branches and overlapping branches are thinned, and the summer pruning, topping, stubbing, and thinning are continued. 3 Fruiting period After plastic pruning, the tree structure is all formed, which is the first period of the apricot tree's life. The yield increased year after year, the growth of shoots decreased, and the reproductive growth was greater than the vegetative growth.

During this period, on the basis of strengthening fertilizer and water management, pruning controlled the outward movement of fruiting parts, shortened backbone branches at all levels, renewed and cultivated fruiting branch groups, thinned out overly dense upright branches, and improved internal light conditions. Keep the tree strong and prolong the fruiting period.

This requires experience, practice is the quickest way or read the book first.

Pruning techniques are not clear in one or two sentences, you buy some scientific and technological books in this area to see, and then find a master to learn it.

It's to cut off the forks of the fruit trees that they used to grow back then.

Generally, the annual branches are cut at more than 30 degrees from the main stem.

The purpose of pruning is to evenly ventilate the area with light.

The fastest in ordinary practice.

These are the things that make perfect.

If one of the main branches of a fruit tree is not alive, you can consider the following steps to promote main branch differentiation:

Determine the location of the main branch: First, determine which branch is the main branch, which is the main pillar attached to the trunk.

Cut off the dead part: Cut off all the dead or damaged parts on the main branch. This will prevent further damage and germ ingress.

Choose the right side branches: Choose the best side branches on the main branch, which should have the right position and length. It is then left to be kept and the other side branches are cut off.

Stubbing: Appropriate stubbing is performed on the selected lateral branches. Truncating the tops promotes their differentiation and growth.

Regular pruning: In order to maintain the health and shape of the fruit tree, regular pruning is required. In general, pruning once a year is necessary.

First of all, check the condition of the tree to see if there are impurities or pests and diseases, and if so, deal with it in time. Then, by pruning the main branch fulcrum and side branches, the main branch can get enough space and sunlight to keep it healthy. In addition, water and nutrient supply can be improved through measures such as water control and fertilization, thereby promoting the differentiation of main branches.

The method of pruning branches of fruit trees is as follows:

1. Tools: Select appropriate pruning tools and disinfect the tools.

3. Pruning: Prune off some overgrown, weak and diseased branches to reduce the consumption of plant nutrients and promote the growth of plants. At this time, almost all fruit tree diseases and insects begin to hide in the overwintering nest, do not eat or move, and enter a state of hibernation, so this is the best period for annual control of fruit tree diseases and pests.

The orchard should be cleaned in time after the fruit trees are picked or after the leaves have fallen. First, prune off diseased branches, dead branches, insect buds, stiff fruits, etc. on the tree. Then sweep the fallen leaves and fruits under the trees, and at the same time clean up the debris around the garden and bury it deeply, destroy or make manure, so as to basically eliminate the pests or germs that overwinter in these debris.

How to buy fruit trees

The rootstock has a close relationship with the growth, fruiting, quality and life of the fruit tree, and it must not be ignored when buying fruit tree seedlings. Dwarf rootstock is the development trend of modern fruit tree cultivation, which can make the crown short, suitable for dense planting, early fruiting and high yield. It has the advantages of good fruit quality, simple technology, easy standardized production, convenient mechanized operation, convenient management, and high production efficiency.

Special attention needs to be paid to the selection of seedlings that are free of pests and diseases, especially for the pests and diseases that are listed as quarantine objects. Do not introduce the disease, insect and weed pests of the quarantine object, otherwise there will be endless troubles, such as citrus huanglongbing, canker, apple rust and fruit disease, grape fan leaf disease, jujube madness, etc. It often leads to the weakening of the growth of fruit trees, the reduction of yield and quality, and even the destruction of the whole garden.

Stubbing is to cut off part of the shoots and buds on the branches of fruit trees, so that the nutrients are concentrated in the cold palace. Topping is the process of picking the young parts of the growing shoots to encourage the plants to blossom and bear fruit. Thinning is to thin branches and buds from the base to reduce the consumption of plant nutrients.

Slow pruning is to leave the branches unpruned and allow them to grow naturally, so that the weak branches can extend to the terminal buds.

Stubbing is to cut off part of the shoots and buds on the branches of fruit trees, so that the nutrients are concentrated, and the cut buds are in an advantageous position and germinate into stronger branches. The retraction of perennial branches is also a kind of truncation, which plays a role in renewal.

Topping is to remove the young part of the growing shoot, inhibit the continued growth of the branch, and promote the nutrients to the lower buds or their adjacent parts, which is conducive to promoting the flowering or fruiting of the plant.

Thinning is to remove some branches and buds from the base. Pruning off thin, weak, dense or long branches can reduce the consumption of plant nutrients, increase the effective photosynthetic area and benefit the overall nutrition.

Slow pruning is to extend the vegetative branches without pruning, so that the weak branches can extend the top buds, gradually slow down, weaken their apical dominance, and improve the germination rate of the branch buds, promote the growth of short branches, and induce flowering.

Fruit Tree Pruning Method:

1. Light pruning and slow release, continuous slow release, and single-head extension are the basic methods of fruit tree pruning, which makes the branch nutrients particularly easy to accumulate, easy to form flower buds, and makes the fruit tree close to the trunk, easy to form high-quality fruits;

2. Fruit trees should grow well, remove the big branches to solve the light, leave the small branches more reliable, can achieve the big branches bright and dignified, the small branches are dense and many, pruning points, the upper part is thinner, the lower part is dense, the outer branches are sparse, the middle branches are dense, and the inner hall should be empty;

3. In the trimming of the side, the central dry branches should always maintain a vigorous growth and transport situation, and when they reach a certain height, they can be flattened, bent the dry branches, and pressed the crown with fruit;

4. When pruning fruit trees, it is found that pulling branches of vigorous growth in fruit trees will weaken the growth potential of fruit trees, so that they can germinate medium and short branches, which can lay the foundation for the transformation of vegetative growth to reproductive growth of fruit trees.

The pruning methods and techniques of fruit trees are as follows:

Stubbing, which mainly cuts off a part of the 1-year-old branch and leaves a part, is called stubbing. According to the degree of stubbing, it can generally be divided into four types: light stub, medium stub, heavy stub and extremely heavy stub. Due to the lack of fullness of the buds at the cutting site, the apical dominance was weakened, and the germination rate of the buds was increased, and there were more middle and short branches germinated.

Medium stub refers to the cutting in the middle of the branch, leaving full buds under the cut.

The apical dominance of the medium and short truncated branches will move downwards to strengthen the vitality of buds below the cutting edge, so the branching force is high and the growth potential is strong. Heavy stubbing, refers to cutting off most of the branches, leaving the sub-full buds at the base of the branches under the cut, and generally only 1 2 mediocre branches can germinate after cutting. Lifting and pruning refers to the cutting of short stakes at the base of the branches.

Lifting and pruning can promote the deflated bud or auxiliary bud at the base to extract 1 2 short branches, which is conducive to cultivating fruiting branch groups.

Thinning and slowing down

Thinning pruning: Thinning refers to cutting or sawing off a 1-year-old branch or perennial branch from the base. Thinning leaves wounds on the mother branch, so it has a weakening effect on the buds or branches above the cut, and has a promoting effect on the branches below the cut of the mother branch.

Thinning can improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and regulate the accumulation of nutrients in the canopy or in the lower branches. In some cases, nutrient consumption can be reduced, nutrients can be concentrated, and flower bud formation can be promoted, especially for plants or varieties with strong growth, thinning is more conducive to flower bud formation than stubbing.

Slow release: also known as long release, refers to the 1-year-old branch is not pruned, let it grow naturally. Slow release is generally applied to the auxiliary branches of young trees, and the apical buds of longer vegetative branches are often imperfectly developed, which relatively weakens the apical advantage and promotes the improvement of germination ability.

It is easy to form leaf cluster branches and short branches, which lays a good foundation for early fruiting, high yield and stable yield, but the slow release of erect branches, competitive branches and long branches should be combined with branch pulling to control the top advantage and achieve the purpose of slowing down the growth and promoting flower buds.