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I like the seamless method:Use Tamiya's model glue suitable for plastic hooby kits (most of the model stores are like this.。。 But mine is a white bottle cap = =), gently brush a layer in the place where there will be a gap (both parts should be brushed) and then squeeze hard until it flows out (the role of the model glue is to temporarily soften the plastic to make it a paste) After it is almost dry, use a pen knife perpendicular to the surface of the part to be processed to scrape off the excess part, and finally smooth it with sandpaper (in fact, the effect is already good without grinding, and most of them should be sprayed with ash after grinding).
This method is very novice-oriented, the effect is good, there are not many materials and it is faster + cheaper than using soil filling.
It's best to have a set of Gundam special markers.,The most basic kind is on the line.,Because the color of the protagonist machine is about the same.,So which set to buy is not much different.,Although it's a plain group, it's better to use a marker pen to make up the color when dealing with soup or polishing.,Physiognomy pen (a brush with a small tip) will become your coloring weapon! Finally, the ink liner must be there, even if it is only black, a slight tick can make the overall feeling of a rough look close to a master's work (if there is no paint solvent, even the fingers can be erased, and it will not be very dirty).
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It's almost the same, the prime group mainly depends on the craftsmanship and experience, but if you use Tamiya glue like this, you should pay attention to the effect of Tamiya is very good, and it is enough to pay attention to a little or it is easy to get a white line, but your tool is not yet able to deal with the white line perfectly, so be patient and slowly group.
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Before doing the first to have tools, if you feel that the model pliers are too expensive, use ordinary scissors, followed by sandpaper and carving knives (easy to buy, also cheap), and finally the zebra brand oil-based pen (very fine) is generally about 5 yuan (stationery store has) and tweezers and spray paint (a can of about 40 yuan) to double star (model store has), if you feel that it is not cost-effective, buy a paint pen (it is best to use up to a special one, at about 20 yuan, if not, use zebra brand, at about 10 yuan).
Be patient when assembling and follow the instructions!
Polishing, cutting, coloring should pay attention to details, color should be uniform, be patient when cutting, be careful when grinding, and do not leave traces when cutting. The man named Mofio Alexander was wrong, and he had to paint first, so that the undried colors would not flow into the cracks, and it would look clear and strong.
If you want to be individual, don't follow the colors on the instructions.
It's better not to use stickers, but to paint them with color. But if a sticker is only 1mm in size and there are more than 100 of them, put a sticker (like the Skull Gundam I bought last year).
Finally, if the plastic texture is good, do not apply protective paint, and if the plastic texture is not good, apply protective paint.
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Model pliers, pen cutters, files, sandpaper, Tamiya glue, tweezers, sanding sticks, markers, water-based paints, water stickers, putty cutters, these are the GUNPLA tutorials that I usually use.
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Hello landlord, happy to answer for you:
GUNPLA is nothing more than seamless glue, a file (or sandpaper), and a pen sharpener. These are the most basic seamless tools. Of course, seamless adhesive is seamless.
The pen knife is to wait for the seamless glue to dry, and then cut off the overflowing seamless glue. The file is used for grinding, and I personally think that water sandpaper is better to use
Personal recommendation: seamless glue: Tamiya green cover, Tamiya water sandpaper: No. 600 rough grinding. No. 1200 fine grinding. Pencil knife: Tamiya 74040
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The glue mentioned upstairs is a method, mainly used in the prime group. Spraying can be done with toothpaste. That is, the toothpaste is applied to the seam and then sanded. It is recommended to apply a little more, because the toothpaste filler has shrinkage, and it will only be smaller than the original when it dries.
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Need to use the "double diamond" model seamless glue, Japan, model lovers more commonly used seamless glue, about 20 pieces a bottle, divided into two kinds, one is the ordinary type (I am using this), the other is the permeability type, both effects are good, it is recommended that the latter is better, but it seems to be a little more expensive, usually a little more professional model stores have to sell. You also need water sandpaper, many stores have glue to sell but no water sandpaper to sell, if you can't find it, use a pen knife and a file, on the same floor I also think that the water sandpaper is much easier to use if you polish.
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Are you fooling the kids upstairs? Double diamonds? It's also the first time I've heard of double drilling out of the country's slip glue.
Generally, seamless is to use Tamiya's yellow cover or green cover, that can be done, and there is sandpaper.
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Novices don't need complicated tools, let's practice the prime group first, the basic tools: nozzle scissors, pen sharpeners, sandpaper and markers (it is better to outline the line, although it is a plain group, but the outline will be more three-dimensional).
The high-end ones are more complicated: scissors for plastic models, utility knives, pen knives, files, sandpaper, instant glue, glue for plastic models, plastic soil filling, synthetic resin soil filling, water filling, airbrushes, air pumps, covering tape, palette pots, spare paint bottles, gundam markers (for painting, bleeding pens), oil paints, zippo oil, water-based hobby color (commonly known as gun's water-based paint), lacqure commonly known as gun's oil-based paint), and Tamiya model paint Water-based acrylic paint, Tamiya model paint, oil-based enamel paint, color (metallic paint), matting agent, pen print remover, paint thinner, mrColor Spray Jar Paint, Tamiya Spray Mini Model Jar Paint, Metal Primer, and many more.
To be honest, there are a lot of things to really do a model and a scene or something, as long as the assembly is done for novices, and then the technology is improved, only consider high-level production, and the above should be understood! Hehe!
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Utility knife, scissors, 502 glue, it is enough to prepare a cutting pad in addition.
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In the case of the vegetarian group, as long as there are water pliers, pen knives and grinding tools, you can do it (together it is not very expensive). If you want a better result, you can also use colored markers and liners. You can find tutorials on assembling GUNPLA**.
Here's what I found. Hope it helps.
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1.Angel ......Is it a zero-type flying wing change?
2.If it is seamless, the ordinary white cover of the Tamiya glue can be coped: apply some glue on both sides of the clamp structure, and then see that there will be a layer of glue squeezed out of the seam to connect the parts, at this time, don't care, wait for half a day (winter) or hours (summer) to polish.
It is recommended to use a pen knife to cut off some solidified glue first, and then use 800, 1000, 1200 sandpaper in turn
Some parts of the wings of the version of the shedding (zero flying wing change) are made of PVC, and it is recommended to cut them with a pen knife
Above, I hope Zheng Huiwang is helpful to you!
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