GUNPLA seamless coloring related

1: It is best to use a green cover for seamless, because of the strong fluidity, not only to do seamless when you just enter the pit, but also to occupy a small part is also very good.

2: Yes, no problem, because when the sanding is seamless, there is no glue that will dissolve the paint.

If you don't spray, you don't need to wash the board.

The model of Bandai does not need to be washed when I spray it.

This is because Bandai uses a water-based release agent.

So there is no oiliness to wash oil.

If it is domestic, you will need it.

It is best to have the vegetarian group as well.

Dish soap is the kind of dish soap that can remove oil from dishes.

Soaking in water for a day or so is fine.

Soak it and you're good to go.

The yellow cover should be coated with the section of the part before bonding (the fluidity cannot reach the flow seam), and the amount will be squeezed everywhere if the dosage is not mastered. When I am cooked, it is faster than a green cap seamlessly.

1. The washing parts are for spraying, and they are generally polished before spraying, so it doesn't matter whether they soak or not.

2. The part that is dissolved by glue after "seamless" is to be polished and smooth, that is to say, there will be no problem of glue.

1. Soak the board with dish soap and remove the oil from the board (easy to paint).

2 I have always used the yellow lid to make it seamless, and the yellow cover has the most resin content.

3. Spray paint one part at a time.

Wash the board parts first, and then do seamless, my order is like this, the yellow cover has not been tried, but I heard that it can also be a test of technology in Gauguin without a green cover for fluidity.

You can use sprinkler irrigation, don't worry about how you make those who do it seamlessly.

Steps to complement the GUNPLA color: 1. First, apply model glue on both sides of the model to be seamless, and remember not to be afraid to apply thick if it is not firm. A small amount of one application is sufficient.

2. At this time, there is glue oozing, no need to tube, after drying, or use the method of treating the nozzle to polish it smooth and smooth. If you engrave the thread, it will be polished off, so you can re-deepen it with a needle. (If you don't have a needle, you can use a compass needle instead, which is also very useful.)

3. After the seamless completion, the dust is then filled, mainly to cover the color of the model itself. Spray back and forth gently, many times, pay attention to the distance (depending on your own conditions, the most important thing is the feeling, you grope for this yourself). It can be completely covered, and the background color can not be seen.

If you are sprinkler spraying and there is no ash to fill the soil, spraying gray paint can actually be done. 4. Adjust the air pressure and find a small white offset plate for spraying and color testing. Because there may be multiple colors on a part, we need to separate the model ourselves.

In this case, we need a masking strap to cover up. After the painting is completed, a coat of matting paint is sprayed for paint protection. This completes the GUNPLA's complementary colors.

1. If you want to use enamel paint for color, it is still necessary to make a layer of water to replenish the soil, in order to provide better adhesion to the enamel paint. (Suggestion: Use special paint for the model, or spray cans, because LZ said to be weathered, and the aging will involve stain washing, and the stain washing is originally enamel paint and zippo oil, so that the zippo stain wash will wash off your original background color at the same time).

2. Yes, so it is recommended to use special paint or sprinkler irrigation for the model.

3. The first thing to explain is that there are two kinds, one is the matting and gloss of the spray can, and the other is the matting and gloss paint of the paint additives, the first one is sprayed directly, and the dulling place that needs to be extinguished is covered with a covering tape, and the whole light is the same. The second is an additive, which is something that is added directly to the paint, not used alone, that is, additives are added when the place that needs to be matted is colored, and it is not added where it is not needed. There is also to make the model to restore the original appearance of the real thing, matte or gloss, depending on the specific needs of the more determined, such as the surface of the car is very bright, so I use to spray the varnish several times to make a reflective effect, the chariot is not very reflective, but it is metal to consider the material problem and can not not be reflective, so we use semi-gloss paint, and then to make a humanoid model, people's clothes are made of fabric (except for special fabrics), cloth is generally not reflective, so we are all matted, The summary is to look more at what the real thing looks like, and then determine the relationship between extinction, semi-light, and full light.

The above is my personal advice, I hope it can be helpful to you.

First of all, if the enamel paint is painted by hand in a large area, it is still relatively difficult to evenly paint without leaving pen marks, and it is necessary to pay attention to whether the water replenishes the soil or not, and the concentration of the hand coating is relatively large, and the adhesion is ***, but if the model surface is uneven, it is still necessary to replenish the soil with water + polishing.

If you use enamel solvent to weather, it will wash off the original enamel coating, but you can't use it, and the oil-based solvent can also wash off part of the enamel coating Be cautious.

The clear paint is applied after it is fully completed, unless it is necessary to apply solvent compatibility or to prevent corrosion.