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Go and see Mr. Shen Congwen's "Research on Ancient Chinese Costumes".
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The Ming Dynasty is one of the dynasties with the strongest atmosphere of Chinese citizens. From the literary works and historical records of the Ming Dynasty that are circulating today, it can be seen that the clothing culture of the Ming Dynasty has also reached a relatively developed level.
Under the immersion of traditional Chinese culture, the beauty of ancient Chinese women emphasizes subtlety and attaches great importance to inner cultivation.
Although the aesthetics of the Ming Dynasty have been relatively broad, the beauty of neutrality and moderation is still the most respected. In terms of body type, "flesh and micro-bones" are once again valued.
Since the Ming Dynasty, a large number of buttons have been used, and the materials are metal, jade, etc. The buttoned cardigan was a common dress for women in the Ming Dynasty.
Diagram of the evolution of Hanfu.
Another woman wears a short jacket with a large placket and a horse-faced skirt with a wide strip in the middle of the skirt, similar to the evolution of "covering the knees", and the waist is more and more finely pleated, and later there are more and more pleats.
Hanfu developed to the Ming Dynasty, and the most prominent feature was the button on the placket, which replaced the knot. However, the buckle was mainly used in dresses, and regular clothes were rarely used, and they were popularized in the late Ming Dynasty.
Buttons, not from the Ming Dynasty, from the Yuan and Mongolian era of the braid jacket waist part, there is the form of buttons, buttons should originate from the Chinese ethnic minorities, the Ming Dynasty began to popular.
Women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty, compared with the Tang Dynasty, the proportion of dresses is obviously inverted,. Due to the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the climate became colder, and the cold time of the year was relatively long, so the blouse gradually became longer to the knees, and the skirt could no longer be tied outside the blouse, but was covered by the blouse, which was the "jacket skirt".
In the middle coat of the Ming Dynasty Hanfu, there was also a kind of stand-up collar similar to today's, which was buttoned by buttons.
The makeup of women in the Ming Dynasty changed from the upturned feather-like eyebrow shape of the Tang Dynasty to the slender crescent-shaped green eyebrows, and the makeup focused on fineness, emphasizing that "the face is like clotted fat, the eyes are like paint, and the eyebrows are smoky".
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The clothing of the Ming Dynasty belongs to the traditional clothing system of the Han nationality, after the rule of the Mongols in the Yuan Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty restored the tradition of the Han nationality, and Zhu Yuanzhang, the Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, reformulated the clothing system. Many of the popular hairstyles for men in the Ming Dynasty were pioneered by Ming Taizu. For example, [net scarf] has the meaning of symbolizing the completion of national laws and regulations, [square scarf] symbolizes national peace, and [melon skin hat], which is almost regarded as a typical Chinese hat by modern Westerners.
The most prominent feature of clothing developed in the Ming Dynasty was that the buttons on the placket replaced the knots that had been around for thousands of years. However, buttons did not begin in the Ming Dynasty, and the form of buttons was seen in the form of buttons from the waist of the braided jacket in the Yuan Dynasty. The use of buttons is also a kind of change, reflecting the progress of the times.
Compared with Tang costumes, the proportion of the dress is obviously inverted, from the top to the bottom, the top is shortened, and the top is gradually lengthened, and the length of the open skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from the opposite collar of the Song Dynasty to a round neckline.
The ** top of the Ming Dynasty is a three-collar with narrow sleeves, a length of more than three feet, and an open skirt.
Two or three inches, that is, the so-called "flower crown skirt, large sleeves and round neck". At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: the blouse was 2 feet 8 inches long, the sleeves were 1 foot 2 inches wide, the outer sleeves were inlaid with brocade, and the mink fox skin was inlaid in winter.
In the early years of the Ming Dynasty, the color of the skirt tended to be light; During the Chongzhen period, white skirts were advocated. There is a skirt.
One or two inch embroidered edges. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the width of the skirt was six, and at the end of the Ming Dynasty, it developed to eight and ten. Skirt pleats are very prevalent, with fine pleats as well as large pleats. The ruffled trim is very exquisite.
There is a kind of color stripe skirt, each one chooses a color satin, each color satin is embroidered with flower and bird patterns, the belt edge is inlaid with gold thread can become an independent strip, and several such various color strips are put together on the belt, it becomes the skirt of the color strip fluttering, so it is named "phoenix tail skirt". Some also make the whole piece of satin by hand into fine pleats, named "pleated skirt". A kind of twenty-four pleated skirt is named "jade skirt".
In the Ming Dynasty, there was also a special style of curtain, because of its shape such as the color of the glow, so it was named "Xia curtain". This kind of veil appeared in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, and it got its name in the Sui and Tang dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the ranks of dresses.
In the Ming Dynasty, it was more common to take this style, its shape was like a long colored hanging belt, each Xia curtain was three inches and two minutes wide, five feet seven inches long, around the neck when taking, draped on the chest, because the lower end hung with a gold or jade pendant, so it became more and more upright and noble.
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Soon after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, it ordered a ban on wearing Hu clothes, restored the Tang Dynasty's clothing and crown system, and the legal clothes and regular clothes had to go hand in hand. The French costume is roughly the same as that of the Tang Dynasty, only the Jinxian crown was changed to the Liang crown, and the crown styles such as the Zhongjing crown and the Baohe crown were added. Officials wore black gauze hats and round-necked robes.
In addition to the color regulations, the robe is also decorated with a complement on the chest and back, and the different patterns embroidered by it indicate the difference in rank, not only that, but the belt is also different in texture due to the different grades. Therefore, the clothing characteristics of the Ming generation mainly reflect the strictness of the hierarchy restrictions. Scholars mostly wear straight jackets or scarves and scarves.
Civilians wore short clothes and small hats or scarves. In the Ming Dynasty, there were also many women's buns, and they often tied a pocket on their foreheads, called "covering their eyebrows". The dress resembles that of the Song and Yuan dynasties, but the underwear has a small round neck and buttons around the neck.
The body is long, decorated with gold and jade pendants, plus cloud shoulders, bijia (large vest), etc.
Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, and the Ming Dynasty began to roughly restore the Han people's clothing and crown as a whole, and developed the Han people's clothing and crown after absorbing the habits of the Hu people in the Tang Dynasty.
In the Ming Dynasty, adults mostly wore wide long clothes with green cloth and straight bodies, and wore square scarves on their heads, and ordinary civilians wore short clothes and turbans.
At this time, a small hat with six and eight pieces of cloth stitched appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. Originally, it was worn by servants, but because it was easy to wear, it became popular. This was the predecessor of the melon skin hat in the Qing Dynasty.
Most of the noble ladies of the Ming Dynasty wore red robes with large sleeves, and ordinary women could only wear peach, purple and green and some light colors. Usually wear a short shirt and long skirt, with a silk belt tied at the waist, the skirt is wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix tail skirts, moonflower skirts, etc.
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