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The landlord must first distinguish the type of "noise",1、If the "noise" is a rustling sound, this belongs to the bottom noise of the speaker system,It can only be eliminated by changing the speaker system to improve the quality of the speaker。
2. If the "noise" is very harsh, this is a problem with sound quality, that is, the ** in your USB flash drive itself is caused by the physical loss in the suppression process, it is recommended that the **file format is larger*** file, do not use WMA and other formats.
3. If you find that the use of high-quality *** can not be solved, you can only consider the solution from the USB flash drive and the audio decoder of the car, you can refresh the audio decoder in the car computer, or replace the audio reading device.
Hope the above helps the landlord!
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**For format problems, lossless audio sources such as APE should be used.
As long as you put a CD car audio is good, it means that it is a USB flash drive problem, but there is still a certain gap between the sound card and speaker on the computer and the car compared with the speaker, so you can't hear the noise.
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Please ask whether the (positive) power supply of the power amplifier and subwoofer you installed is connected to the positive pole of the battery (and whether the negative pole is good), not the power supply found randomly in the car (if the voltage regulator is broken when connected to the power supply in the car), the power supply in the car is due to the unstable voltage generated by the generator when you fill the gas pedal of your car (you can use a multimeter to detect whether the voltage at the outlet end of the voltage regulator is consistent with the value of the accelerator or loose throttle), and the voltage emitted by the battery is stable, That's why there's noise.
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1.Due to the particularity of the use environment, the design of car audio is different from that of home audio. When people use car stereos in their daily lives, it is easy to cause important failures because they know its characteristics.
2.Another issue is the use of CD mechanical parts. The mechanical structure of the car audio CD adopts a suction design.
Simply place the disc gently at the inlet and the mechanism will automatically suck the disc in. However, there are also consumers who solve this structure when they use it, and pushing the disc in by mistake will damage the disc and sometimes damage the tray structure.
3.Also, the warranty is important. As a reminder, all brands of car audio have perfect after-sales service.
Although the brand-name car audio is cheap, the cost includes the cost of after-sales service. Consumers only look at ** when buying, so they should have a clear understanding of the after-sales service of the brand they are buying.
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Check if there is electricity in the live wire. Use a screw to scrape the horn relay "battery" binding post with the grounding iron. If there is no spark, it means that there is an open circuit in the live wire, and whether there is an open circuit between the battery fuse and the "battery" binding post of the horn relay should be checked.
If there is electricity in the live wire, then use a screw to short-circuit the two binding posts of the "battery" and "horn" of the horn relay, if the horn still does not sound, it means that the horn is faulty. If the horn sounds, it means that the horn relay or button is faulty.
Press the horn button:
Listen for sound in the relay. If there is a "rattling" sound (contact closing) but the horn does not sound, it means that the relay contacts are oxidized or ablated. If there is no "gurgling" sound reaction in the relay, then use a screw to short-circuit the horn button binding post with the grounding lap iron.
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Some horns internal electromagnetic coil enameled wire terminal joint is aluminum metal rivet crimping connection, non-reliable welding connection, if the end of the enameled wire on the insulating paint treatment is not clean or rivet crimping is not reliable, it is easy to produce virtual connection fault, the guide spine causes the horn to work poorly. This kind of failure is the quality of the horn, which cannot be repaired, and can only be replaced with new parts.
This question is to distinguish which are fault and which are reasonable. Only nearly 20% of the vehicles that went to the repair shop to detect abnormal noises really had problems. In the case of a turbocharged engine, there is a must be a difference between the sound and the sound of a naturally aspirated engine; Models with engine guards may also make noises due to friction; After some car owners come into contact with different cars, it is likely that they lack their own understanding of mechanical knowledge, so they can distinguish the abnormal noise of the car and avoid wasting time and energy.
How to identify the sound of a car:
In practice, due to the limitations of working conditions, it is difficult to measure the sound of the car with special instruments, and the sound of the car can only be described and compared with the judgment of the sound in daily life. For example, the "rattle" sound caused by the dry friction of the bearing, and the "click" sound similar to the small hammer hitting the cement floor caused by the excessive valve clearance.
1. Correctly distinguish between normal and abnormal sounds.
The vibration of each mechanism in the work of the car will emit a variety of sounds, but the sound does not mean that the car is faulty, in order to avoid unnecessary disassembly, we must first distinguish between normal sound and abnormal noise. The normal vibration sound of each system component (such as the noise on the surface of the engine), the impact sound of the gear when shifting, the air intake sound and exhaust sound of using gas as the working source, and the gear meshing noise are all normal sounds. Abnormal noise (abnormal noise) can be divided into slight noise, general noise and malignant noise according to the impact on the performance of the car.
Slight sounds, such as the sound of high-voltage electric leakage, the sound of flash fire, the slight loose sound of rolling bearings, etc., are generally small, the degree of wear of the parts is not large, and there is no significant change for a long time.
3. When diagnosing abnormal noise, attention should be paid to creating good auscultation conditions and trying to eliminate the interference of other noises, so as not to affect the accuracy of judgment.
It is best to consciously amplify or reduce the sound, that is, to amplify the sound with a whirlpool, or to reduce the sound by using a single cylinder fire cut-off to meet the needs of the diagnosis. The auscultation site should be kept quiet to minimize human interference.
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1.Loose sealing is susceptible to moisture: Although the inside of the horn is sealed, if the seal is not tight, if it enters the fog or there is water vapor in the air in the internal space when washing the car, the water vapor can easily cause the contacts to be damp and unable to work properly.
2.Poor contact of solenoid terminals: some horns inside the electromagnetic coil enameled wire terminal joint is connected by aluminum metal rivet crimping, non-reliable soldering connection, if the insulating paint on the enameled wire at the end is not clean or the rivet crimping is not reliable, it is easy to produce virtual connection faults, resulting in poor horn work.
This kind of failure is the reason for the quality of the horn that cannot be repaired, and can only be replaced with new parts.
3.Contact ablation: If the horn is pressed for a long time, it is easy to cause the horn contact to be ablated and the impedance will be generated, the current flowing through the electromagnetic coil will be weakened, and the electromagnetic attraction will not be able to attract the armature to drive the diaphragm to vibrate normally, resulting in hoarse or even no sound.
However, when the horn is constantly pressed, if the strong current passes through the impedance for an instantaneous time, it can still work normally.
Probably a mechanical breakdown!
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