Urgent! Which body and lens should you choose?

Sony A580 + Zeiss DT16-80MM ZA This combination color is too good, and the charm of Zeiss lenses is needed.

None of them fit!

Shoot the auto show, it is more appropriate to have a calibration, or you love to die ("rabbit" is the best)! This is the weapon for shooting auto shows, of course, it is not impossible to shoot anything else, it depends on what kind of effect you want to shoot.

If you want to ** quality up, you said that the written lens is not good, my personal opinion, you have to have two heads, one to take a solid family photo of the scenery, 17-40, this is no problem, according to the car show in the last 70-200, very good focal length! You won't regret buying it! If your imagination improves, go to the fixed focus!

If you're not satisfied with what I've said, then you buy 60d+18-135

Just judge from a point, the aperture is large, the aperture must be larger than the aperture, what is the role of the aperture large, that is, the bokeh effect is good, so it must be chosen, but if you don't have a lot of budget, you can buy this lens is about 1300, and that lens is about 2500.

There is a saying in photography: "If the aperture is one level bigger, it will crush people".

Choose one of these two heads, decisively 50

No need to explain.

The 40 is a Canon-designed biscuit head that is particularly thin and light, which can be considered to fill a gap in the Canon biscuit head, but the picture quality is definitely not as good as the 50

In such a small size, it is more difficult to do well.

Only those with special needs for thinness and lightness should be used, such as with two SLRs, which are not much thicker than a lens cover for one body.

Replace the lens cover of the fuselage and shoot directly when you pick it up.

Originally, the 650D body was not small, and it didn't necessarily look good with a biscuit head.

Why are you doing it?,But it still looks like the aperture is relatively large.,After all, it's a standard lens.,40Focal length really haven't been used.,Your machine is a frame cut-off machine.,Canon's lens conversion factor should be.,You calculate the focal length yourself.,And then choose ...... according to the use.

If you want to see the comparison of parameters and evaluation word-of-mouth, go to Zhongguancun or the Pacific Ocean**, where there are detailed reviews and real evaluations of users, in addition, Zhongguancun also has a special lens forum, you can go and see the ** shot with these two heads, you prefer that style, I personally still prefer the head with a large aperture, hehe, after all, it's not that the light is so good ......

For portraits, I really recommend 85

The advantage of aperture is not something that can be explained in one sentence.

The current situation of SLR is that the lens is slow to be updated and the body is updated quickly.

In addition, you also have to think that there is only one lens in the hand of playing photography, at least two or three, and the body is generally one, do you calculate whether it is cost-effective to upgrade a few lenses or upgrade a fuselage in the future?

If you have the money, you plan to play photography for a long time.

It is recommended to buy a good lens first, such as the Canon red circle head (**above 5k), which may not be outdated for ten years.

There are two benefits to this, 1You don't need to change the lens if you change the body in the future2It is not much to lose money by selling it on the second-hand market.

As for the body, I think it can be used for beginners, Canon 500D, 50D, Nikon D90 are all good.

You don't need to buy too expensive for the fuselage, at most three years, it will definitely be eliminated.

About full frame.

To put it simply, the CCD area is larger than that of ordinary SLR, so that the electronic components on the CCD have a large spacing, which is not easy to interfere with each other and has good image quality. However, the larger the area of CCD, the more difficult it is to manufacture, and the higher it is.

Canon, Nikon, etc., all have full-frame bodies above 15k.

For starters, there's no need to think about full-frame at all, unless you're very wealthy.

If you are a beginner, I recommend taking a look at "Extraordinary Photography Notes - 2 Days to Play with a DSLR Camera", which is quite popular and has a detailed shopping guide.

The X-factor is not used in the selection of lenses for the full frame, and it is more convenient to match the lens as well as the original film body! Since the size of the imaging element is comparable to that of the 135 film, it is theoretically and personally more detailed than the imaging element of the APS-H specification (but I don't see any difference in imaging quality in practice).

The disadvantages are also obvious: due to the large size of the imaging element, the pixels of the same quality photos are much higher than the small-size CCD, resulting in the slow processing speed of the camera, resulting in the current continuous shooting speed of the full-frame body is not as fast as the small-size body (this is also the main reason why professional photographers such as sports reporters are reluctant to choose full-frame machines), and again, the distortion of the full-frame at the wide-angle end is not perfectly handled!

If you have money, you should first get on the body and upgrade the lens later.

Both the body and the lens are good. In terms of image quality, there is not much difference between the low-end and high-end bodies. In terms of operation, the high-end and mid-range bodies, the mid-range and low-end bodies are far apart.

A full-frame SLR is a DSLR with a sensor area of about 36*24mm.

It's all nonsense!

The most important thing is to have good skills!

If you have a lot of money, you have to be good; If you don't have a lot of money, you can't even want a good one. The most expensive is not necessarily the best, the best for yourself is the best.

If you are a novice, then the body and lens do not need to be so good, the approaching product will be updated and the price will be dropped, and you will buy it after you learn it.

Buy some entry-level products first, and then buy expensive ones when you get familiar with them.

If you have money, of course you have to do it! Relatively speaking, the general lens is not much upgraded, especially Canon Nikon and other big brands, it is rare to produce a new lens, a good lens can be used for a long, long time, and the body will be new products every spring and autumn, the replacement is very fast, from 350D to 400D to 450D, etc., 20D to 30D to 40D to 50D, etc., 5D to 5D Mark II, and now there is a 7D, and so on. Full and incomplete are two levels, not a full camera, the lens has a conversion factor.

For example, the red circle head of the Canon 16-35 has a focal length of 16-35 on the 5D Mark II, and when it is put on the 50D, it becomes a coefficient to be multiplied, because the 5D Mark II is a full set of machines. In addition, the most important thing is the difference in picture quality, and the full set of machines** is also much more expensive! It can only be said that if you have sufficient funds, you can buy a full set of cameras, and then start to match the lens, buy them one by one, if the funds are limited, you can buy a non-full set first, such as 450d and then start with the lens, and then directly replace it with a full set later, and the lens can be used directly, no need to change.

It mainly depends on how you start? If you are only going to buy one body and one lens, choose a comprehensive one.

Since it is on the D610, the lens is still quite suitable for the grade. 16-85 seems to be DX's, but it doesn't support full-frame, so exclude. I don't know if your 35mm is DX, but if it is, I'm sorry, I can't use it.

Personally, buy or, ** less than 5000, portraits can use prime focus, and some scenery can also be used. And the head, it's just that there is a large aperture at the wide-angle end, which doesn't mean much, it's not as cool as a 50 35mm! Or even buy a fixed focus hang-up directly.

The 16-85 is a special lens for DX, and the full-frame body must be cut when used, which is not applicable. The 24-85 lens has been widely verified by moviegoers, and it cannot be used in full-frame camera body with poor imaging (OK on DX body, sharp decrease in sharpness on full-frame body for some reason). The 24-85VR kit lens is moderately weighted, and the second-generation VR image stabilization makes up for the lack of maximum aperture for low-light shooting to a certain extent, making it the best choice.

Don't worry about it, just buy a set of lenses. Originally, I wanted to recommend the inexpensive Tamron 24-70 USD lens (around 7,000 yuan), but the arm strength was not good.

Your AF-S DX lens is also a DX-specific lens, which doesn't work well on a full-frame body.

All 610 lenses must be good, the original mirror at this price is too general, it is recommended to take a look at the Tamron 24-70, fixed aperture, with anti-shake, you take a look at the evaluation first, it is not suitable for you.

The 35 used in the 5100 is DX, sell it, 24-70 is enough.

Canon 650D, 700D+18-135mm lenses, Nikon D5100, D520018-105mm lenses, these two brands of SLRs, can meet your requirements!

Other Sony and Pentax also have products of the same grade, silver accessories, maintenance and other reasons, not recommended!

Nikon D7000 set, Canon 60D+18-135IS set, Sony A58 body + 18-135 lens, are more suitable, among which Sony's machine with LCD screen framing is the strongest among all cameras, and the focusing speed is fast. The nikon is better suited to landscapes, and the Canon is good for portraits.

Upgrade the fuselage! Changing lenses doesn't completely solve the problem! After changing the lens, you still have to change the body, so it's better to change the body first! 5diii no problem!

24 , all advanced lenses. However, the 550D is a low-end body, and the focusing accuracy and speed are not enough, so it cannot give full play to the advantages of the lens!

Add lenses if you need them in the future!

The full-frame machine for shooting portraits has great advantages, and the picture quality is much better, so there is no need to be entangled, and the budget is sufficient, 5d3 plus 35 and 85, 50 is the header can do anything, but nothing can be done well.

If it's just 50 one, it's definitely not enough. However, I prefer to change the fuselage. Half-frame under-perspective relationships are problematic.

If you decide to buy a 5D3, upgrade the body.

It's much better to shoot in full than in half.

Half-frame upgrade shots aren't interesting.

The body and lens are equally important.

If you are on a tight budget, you can consider entering the full-width 6D, and it is also good to have a 24-105.

Since you don't think about money, it must be a combination of body + lens. The lens of the set is basically chicken ribs, as for the 18-200mm lens, the so-called one lens goes all over the world, it really doesn't make much sense. If you want to take good photos, you have to be willing to buy good lenses.

Like the 18-200mm lens, basically no one takes it with you when you really go out to travel, and once you miss many scenery, you will never have a chance again.

D7000 is considered the top level in the APS-C class camera, and the lens, I recommend the lens of the deputy factory Tallong, of course, you can like the original one, but it will be much higher.

1. Wide-angle lens. Tamron 17-50mm F, Tamron 28-75mm F2, telephoto lens. Tamron SP 70-300mm DI VC USD3, prime lens. Nikon AF 50mm F

The others are fisheye or super telephoto lenses, if they are not particularly professional, a wide angle, a telephoto, and a fixed focus are basically enough.

Can buy D7000, there is already a certain grade, 18 200 lens belongs to the tourist head, that is, it can be shot near and far, but in terms of image effect, the larger the span, the worse the quality. Playing D7000, I still consider buying a smaller focal length. It is recommended to have a 10 24 ultra wide angle, a 24-70, a 70-300, plus a 50.

You mean the 18-105 lens, that lens is still more practical. If your budget is sufficient, and if you like to go all over the world in one shot, then 18-200 is a great choice.

In terms of comprehensive performance, 40mm is better than 50 in terms of color, sharpness, texture, etc., which may be due to the aperture problem, which makes you feel that the bokeh is not as good as 50, in fact, the lens is not just looking at the value, but looking at the individual differences in the lens structure.

For an excellent lens, sharpness and texture are particularly important, although 50 is a larger aperture and has a higher degree of bokeh, but the bokeh effect is poor, while 40 has a lower bokeh degree, but the bokeh effect is better. Therefore, as a comprehensive comparison of picture quality, cookies are definitely superior.

If you want to pursue a large aperture, you can choose the 30 new version of Sigma, or 50, these two heads are a thousand pieces, the effect is very amazing, the picture quality is far better than biscuits and spittoons and 35 2 These heads, the aperture is fully usable and the sharpness is amazing, but you have to test it clearly when you buy, Sigma's focus problem is very serious, each is different. I used to have a very bad impression of Sigma, but the recent progress has completely changed my mind, especially the Sigma 35, which is embarrassing. The original Zeiss has to stand aside.

4,000 pieces, delicate and tens of thousands of fixed focus.

The above is just a suggestion, you can do it, and in the end, you still have to take a look at the online sample reviews and choose slowly.

This can't just look at the blur, these two heads, 50 must be basically unusable, generally have to shrink about 3 gears. So the bokeh of these two heads is about the same.

And I used this a long time ago, the only feeling is "strenuous", shooting a still life in the house, water droplets, bonsai is okay, going out to shoot people or sweeping the street, this focus is simply painful. If you are out of focus, it is not only about the lens, but also for the operation, but this head is obviously a bigger thing for the lens. After a long day, I was too lazy to zoom in and check, and I came back to see that it was paste. . .

Still recommend 40. This end is basically available, and it is wider (personal preference), the focus has an STM motor, it is very stable, and the workmanship is slightly stronger, in short, it will not be weak to use, very handy.

In addition, I would like to remind you that the bokeh effect is not only a simple "blur", but also the degree of dissolution of the bokeh image, whether it is soft or not, is also a standard. You use an 85 lens, turn the aperture to, and a small spittoon. Definitely not a level.