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The methods of artificial breeding of crickets are described as follows:
1. Feeding equipment.
Crickets can be kept in large cages. A water tank with a width and a depth of 20 cm should be built one meter away from the bottom of the cage, and clean water should be poured to prevent the invasion of natural enemies such as ants and protect the young larvae. The large cage is generally 10 5 2 (m), which can raise 3000-5000 crickets from larvae to adults, and soybeans, peanuts, corn and other crops are planted in the cage for natural feed.
2. Trapping seed insects.
Crickets have a strong ability to jump, and have the ability to drill cracks, build holes, and conceal, so it is not easy to collect large numbers. It can be trapped by phototropism and feeding habits in the adult stage.
3. Reproduction. Each cage can put 100 male and female crickets, after the crickets mate, that is, lay eggs in the ground, after the plant straw in the cage dies, do not pull out, as a cover on the ground, in order to facilitate the safe wintering of eggs. In the second year, when the temperature rises to about 20, a large number of hatched larvae can be seen.
4. Daily management.
Crickets are raised in the cage, and the simple use of natural feed in the cage is far from being able to adapt to the large insect population density, and the artificial feed that is easy to accumulate, small in size and high in nutrition can be used, supplemented by a small amount of natural green feed, which is more conducive to improving the feeding effect. Artificial feed formula 1: soybean flour 20%, semolina 35%, corn flour 20%, skimmed milk powder 15%, liver meal 5%, dry yeast 5%.
Formula 2: 25% corn flour, 20% soybean flour, 25% couscous wheat flour, 15% skimmed milk powder, 5% dry yeast, 10% fish meal. Put the ingredients into the container at the same time, stir well and grind finely, sprinkle on the wooden board to feed, do not put too much each time, it is advisable to eat completely.
The feeding temperature of crickets should be around 25. When the temperature is too dry, spray some water in the morning and evening to keep the surface temperature in the cage at 75-80%. Rainy days do not affect the normal life of crickets, but they should be covered on the feeding board, and green fodder can be put less or no more.
Water in the cage for 1 hour can cause crickets to die and forget, and should be drained in time. The daily light time is 12 hours, the nymph development period can be shortened, and when the natural light time is insufficient, light should be added.
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I grabbed one a few minutes ago and put it in a mineral water bottle, so I ate the grass!
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Crickets eat the young leaves and fruits of saplings, as well as crops such as rice, sorghum, and wheat.
Most of the crickets are small and medium-sized, and a few are large. Yellowish-brown to black-brown. The head is round, the thorax is somewhat broad, and the filamentous antennae are slender and breakable.
Chewing mouthparts. Some have large jaws that are well developed and stronger than bites. Forefoot and midfoot similar and of the same length; The hind feet are well developed and good at jumping; The tail whiskers are longer.
Auditory apparatus on the tibial joints of the forefoot, lateral to greater medial. Males are loud and aggressive, and kill each other.
Male insects have articulators on their forewings, which consist of scrapings on the wing veins, rubbing veins, and articulatory mirrors. The forewings are raised and rubbed from side to side, thus vibrating the articulation mirror and producing tones. Females are larger, with pinhole-like or spear-shaped ovipositor tubes bare and small wings.
Male crickets fight each other to compete for food, fortify their territory, and possess females.
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Crickets can be raised with cabbage leaves as the staple food, plus some concentrate.
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Omnivorous, eating a variety of crops, saplings, vegetables and fruits, etc.
Crickets burrow, often inhabit the surface, under the masonry, in the soil holes, among the grass. Night-out activities.
Crickets are withdrawn by nature, generally live independently, and are never allowed to live with other crickets (males also live with another female during mating), so they cannot tolerate each other, and once they meet, they will bite and fight. A male cricket can cohabit with multiple female crickets.
So it's good for you to keep the crickets alone in a box. It cannot be raised in groups.
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1. If you are playing casually, then find a container, smash 1 5 soil in it, and smash it solid. Feed once a day. The food is: rice, cabbage, pumpkin, soybeans (soaked soft), cucumbers, various fruits, etc.
Second, if you want to keep listening to the call, then you need a cricket jar, porcelain jar, clay pot can be. Smashing the bottom must be professional. Smash the bottom with Sanhe soil, and then starch with insect tea. The tank is equipped with a basin of water. Feed edamame, pumpkin, and cabbage. Brush the can once a day.
Third, if you raise crickets, then whether it is a container or feeding, every day is very particular, not a sentence or two can be clear, or find a few professional ** to see it.
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Crickets are omnivores, usually feed some vegetables and fruits, green vegetables, corn, fruit fragments and protein foods are the best.
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Crickets burrow, inhabit the surface, under the masonry, in the soil holes, among the grass. Night-out activities. Omnivorous, eating a variety of crops, saplings, vegetables and fruits, etc.
To raise crickets, you must first prepare a small pottery jar, put some moist soil at the bottom of the small jar, and flatten the soil. Keep the crickets in small clay pots, only one in each jar, not two or three at the same time, so that they don't fight. There are many types of food, such as steamed buns, rice grains, corn kernels, peanuts, melon seeds, soaked green beans, or peppers and vegetable leaves to eat weeds.
Put a small section one day, and change it to a fresh one the next day.
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Crickets living in the wild generally feed on young shoots, young leaves and roots, and in addition to a variety of fresh vegetables and fruits, the keeper will also choose some food and mix it to make a rich and nutritious meal in proportion. Regular and quantitative feeding every day promotes crickets to grow healthier and braver.
The main recipes for making cricket food are: soybean flour 20%, semolus wheat flour 35%, corn flour 20%, skimmed milk powder 15%, liver flour 5%, dry yeast 5%; Or corn flour 25%, soybean flour 20%, semolinus flour 25%, skim milk powder 15%, dry yeast 5%, fish meal 10%. Place the food in a container, then grind it finely and stir well.
When feeding every day, be careful not to feed too much, as long as you make sure that the crickets can eat all the food and have no leftovers. In the process of feeding, the keeper can make a reasonable combination of a variety of foods to meet the nutritional needs of the crickets for growth.
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Crickets are omnivorous and eat all kinds of duës
things, saplings, vegetables, fruits, etc.
Place the container where the cricket eggs are incubated and the adult crickets back together. A: Incubators are usually placed on the bottom floor of the cricket colony. Before feeding pets of different sizes, crickets need to be sorted by body type, which will quickly fill the bottom layer with dead crickets and droppings.
If there is an ovipositor or shelter on top, it is difficult to keep the bottom layer moist.
The breeding herd should be kept in a deep plastic box with a water container. There is no need to lay anything on the bottom layer of the container, there should be ventilation holes on both sides or on the top of the container, and mosquito nets should be nailed. Do not use grass fiber materials, as crickets can quickly eat the fiber and go away.
The water container can be the type of chicken, i.e. a glue vessel that is round and downwards to drip water droplets. Small pieces of glue or a Dacron quilt should be cut to wrap the leeses. They will soak in water, but be careful not to drown them.
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I also want to buy a bunny, make a mark first :)