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Huang Daopo of the Yuan Dynasty improved the spinning, weaving and other technologies of the Li nationality to spread to the interior, quickly promoted the development of the cotton textile industry in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, and set off the "cotton revolution" that lasted for hundreds of years praised by scholars at home and abroad, so that cotton fabrics replaced hemp fabrics as daily necessities, and Huang Daopo also became the ancestor of China's textile industry. Ancient name"Gibe"Cloth"Yazhou was been"、"Cotton"It is a characteristic flower cloth of the Li nationality, which was popular in the Spring and Autumn Period and is the earliest cotton textile in China. The Li people use cotton wool and ramie (zhu) hemp fibers in the kapok capsule, as well as shrub cotton such as island cotton, Brazilian kapok, continental cotton and tree cotton from the Americas and India respectively, mainly weaving and embroidering, weaving and dyeing, weaving flowers, less embroidery, using natural plant pigments as pigments, and weaving into a characteristic flower cotton cloth (with linen and cotton respectively as warp and weft).
Because kapok is also known as Jibei, Li Jin is also called Jibei. Li Jin is fine, light and soft, white and durable, as the old saying goes"Li Jin is as bright as a cloud"。Before the Song Dynasty, the cotton textile technology of the Li people was ahead of the Han nationality in the Central Plains, and later the shrub cotton was gradually introduced to southern China from Hainan Island, and Huang Daopo in the Yuan Dynasty improved the spinning, weaving and other technologies of the Li nationality to spread to the interior, which quickly promoted the development of the cotton spinning industry in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, and set off a reputation that was praised by scholars at home and abroad for hundreds of years"The Cotton Revolution", so that cotton fabrics replaced hemp fabrics as necessities, and Huang Daopo also became the ancestor of China's textile industry.
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The collection of ancient and modern books knows the most detailed.
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The dyeing and weaving process of the Ming Dynasty developed greatly. Silk weaving has entered a heyday, and cotton weaving has jumped to the first place. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the planting of mulberry cotton was promoted, which quickly reversed the destruction of agriculture and animal husbandry in the Yuan Dynasty.
The state manages, and the Ministry of Industry has "Wensi Institute" and "Weaving and Dyeing Institute"; The Inner Government has the "Internal Weaving and Dyeing Bureau". Nanjing has a "South Bureau", and there are twenty or thirty kinds of division of labor. There are 10 weaving and dyeing institutes in Zhejiang.
Suzhou, Fujian, Jiangxi, Shu, Henan, Shandong and other provinces have official workshops. Each province has a "Dongshu Weaving and Dyeing Bureau". The Ministry of Industry "Guangying Warehouse" stores Ling's land, silk, yarn, Luo, silk, brocade, silk, satin, etc.
The "carrier warehouse" of the household department stores satin horses, etc., and the "A word warehouse" stores cloth and pigments. Therefore, silk fabrics have the names of "Ku Jin" and "Ku Satin".
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Song Dynasty: The development of dyeing and weaving technology to the Song Dynasty is the first major manifestation of the first intervention, followed by the use of dyeing and weaving technology, in addition to normal clothing, but also expanded to the framing of calligraphy and painting and the reward of the royal family. The ornamentation of Song Jin is different from that of the Tang Dynasty, and the Song Dynasty used to use brocade ornaments and sketch flowers everywhere and the color was quiet and elegant.
In addition to the relationship between the prosperity of the literati in the Song Dynasty, it is also important that the imperial court set up an embroidery painting specialty in the Huizong period, which made the Song embroidery prosperous.
Due to the change of power in the Yuan Dynasty, wool weaving and cotton weaving arose with the development of history. Wool weaving was a dyeing product that flourished to suit the ruling class, the Mongolian aristocracy. With the development of the cotton cloth industry in the south of the Yangtze River, the famous cotton weaver Huang Daopo promoted the manufacturing technology related to the cotton industry, which made cotton weaving begin to rise.
Compared with the embroidery of the previous generation, the embroidery of the Yuan Dynasty applied more embroidery techniques to the Buddha statues than before, which is different. To sum up, the dyeing and weaving process of the Song and Yuan dynasties of the five dynasties has different specific beauty from the characteristics of the times, textile skills, etc., but the general convergence has become an important part of Chinese handicrafts, so that the traditional beauty of China can continue and develop.
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The textile style of the Song Dynasty is very different from the gaudy and luxurious of the Tang Dynasty, the fabric color is light, and there are more pure color fabrics. In addition to the dragon and phoenix patterns dedicated to the court, the folk fabric patterns mostly use symmetrical and balanced moire, water patterns, branch and leaf patterns, hidden patterns, etc. However, on the fabrics of the southern region, obvious geometric patterns of Islamic style have been found, and it is estimated that they were produced according to customer requirements.
The rulers of the Yuan Dynasty were the Mongols, whose ethnic group was still white, and the blue pattern on a white background was a very common form of fabric. The Yuan Dynasty fabrics had a great influence from the Western Regions. On the fragments of Yuan Dynasty fabrics unearthed in Xinjiang, patterns with gold threads were found.
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The Qing Dynasty undertook the development of the Ming Dynasty, and the Beijing "Weaving and Dyeing Bureau" managed "satin, variegated, embroidery, and painting". Jiangnan and other places set up a "weaving bureau", outstanding workers recruited 30,000 looms in the government-run workshop, Nanjing looms, and 1,000 looms in Suzhou and Hangzhou. Subsequently, silk shops, peach blossom shops, machine shops, shuttle shops and other industries were produced.
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