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Hydroponic hyacinths can be changed to soil culture balls after flowering, and they can generally be raised for about a month.
For soil culture, you just need to keep the soil moist and put it on the balcony where the sun shines, and you don't need to be too annoying, just simple maintenance.
In addition, you don't throw away the hyacinths that bloom this year, or keep the soil moist and nourish the balls, and wait until the flowers and leaves all wither, you don't need to water, you can plane them out or not, put them in the corner of the balcony, and dry them naturally. In the second half of the year, you can continue to cultivate the soil in November, if you are still in this pot, you must soak the soil with water (that is, put the pot in the water and slowly absorb the water), and then maintain it as much as this year, and it will bloom normally, but the flowers will be a little less, and the big ball will become significantly smaller, and then grow a small ball from the side, so that the small ball grows up for a few years, you can transplant it into a large pot or plant it in a few small pots, and you will have more than one hyacinth.
I have been raising it for 3 years, and a large ball has bred more than a dozen small balls, some of which are still blooming, one or several flowers, and the balls are also growing up. So if you take care of it like this, you'll have a lot of hyacinths too.
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Dig the ball <>
Before and after digging the ball, it is necessary to water properly to keep the potting soil relatively moist and convenient for taking the ball. Once the balls are removed, remove any excess dirt and remove the aged rhizomes and leave them in the shade for a few days.
Disinfect <>
A necessary step when sterilizing before bagging and storing, there will be a large number of bacteria in the humus soil for a long time, soak it in carbendazim solution for 40 minutes, take it out and dry it naturally.
Hang or refrigerate <>
After disinfection and drying, the bulbs are directly bagged and hung in a cool place, taking care not to hurt the bulb epidermis, and look through them once a week. Or just wrap the bulbs in newspaper and store them in the refrigerator.
The bulbs are usually dug up in June for storage, and the temperature hanging in the shade is 20 25, of course, the temperature is high in summer, as long as it is placed in a cool place and properly ventilated, there should be no problem. Many flower friends will also choose the way of refrigeration, the purpose of refrigeration is to promote flowers, note that the ball can not be refrigerated immediately after harvesting in June, after two months of room temperature storage, put it in the refrigerator in August, and the temperature is controlled at 2 5 degrees.
When handling bulbs, do not hurt the root system so as not to affect the regrowth.
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I believe that the majority of flower friends are very curious, then, let me tell you about it!
When the hyacinth is completely at the end of flowering, it will turn into the stage of raising balls after flowering.
Since hyacinths are at the end of flowering, they can continue to grow for a period of time before they officially enter summer dormancy, and the maintenance is the same as before, so be sure to water when it is time to water; When the temperature is suitable, chase fertilizers with more phosphorus and potassium as appropriate.
At this time, the key point of maintenance is: after the flowering period, only need to cut off the broken flower stems, and the healthy leaves of the whole plant must be retained. As long as there are enough green leaves, the stupid chain photosynthesis will give the bulbs a chance to rejuvenate and reduce the degree of degradation; On the contrary, if the leaves are cut off too early, then the step of raising balls after flowering will be completely eliminated, and even if it blooms in the future, the degradation will be more obvious.
Normally, when the weather gets hotter, the leaves will wilt naturally, which is roughly in April and May. When the hyacinth leaves wilt naturally, they can pill and store; After pilling, the bulbs are dried naturally, then collected and stored for replanting in the late autumn of the year.
When the hyacinth bulbs sprout again, a new cycle of life begins again.
How to prevent bulb mildew
The integrity of the bulbs themselves. Just as a person has a wound on his body, then the chance of infection is greater, and the surface of the tremor sphere should also be avoided from bumping and breaking, and avoiding too much peeling of the outer layer of fleshy skin is not a big problem, so as not to cause fresh wounds and increase the chance of infection.
Cleaning of the root disk. After getting it, cleaning up the dead roots is also one of the means of prevention.
Keep the bottom of the root dish 1cm-3cm away from the water surface to keep the sphere dry. If soil is cultivated, avoid watering the head.
After soaking carbendazim, it should be thoroughly dried. Although carbendazim can inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria, the dampness of the spheres after failure also creates a hidden danger for mold. It should be dried thoroughly in a cool and ventilated place, generally for a day and night, and then hydroponics is better.
Not too warm. Many flower friends say, I usually pay attention to all kinds of things, why is it still a rotten ball? This has a lot to do with the fact that the temperature is too warm.
It's like a dish that spoils overnight in the summer, but it doesn't spoil after two days in the winter. The high temperature will cause bacteria and molds to multiply faster, and hyacinths themselves are adapted to colder environments, and the flowering period is only 15-18, so it is not too warm, which is also an important part of prevention.
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1. How to maintain the flowering period.
1. Don't move casually: After hyacinths start to bloom, don't move the position casually, put it in the original position, if you move the position casually, it may cause the flower buds to fall.
2. Sufficient astigmatism: If you want hyacinths to bloom for a longer time, you can put them in a place with sufficient astigmatism Li Yan to maintain, and avoid direct sun exposure during the period, if the light is too strong, it will burn the petals and leaves, causing the flowers of hyacinths to wither prematurely. There should also be no lack of sunlight, and a lack of light is not good for flowering.
3. Proper fertilization: add a little phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before flowering to meet the nutrient needs of flowering, and ensure that there are sufficient nutrients during the flowering period, but not too much fertilizer.
4. Appropriate watering: When hyacinth flowers are disturbed, we should pay attention to the appropriate amount of watering to maintain good moisture, but pay attention not to water too much, otherwise it will cause the buds to fall and the roots to show signs of rot.
2. Flowering time.
Hyacinths bloom in early spring, and their natural flowering time is around February to April every year. Hyacinths that are maintained in different environments have different flowering times, but the flowering time is around March in the southern region and the flowering time is around February in the northern region because of the indoor heating.
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What to do with hyacinths after flowering, only keep the bulbs after flowering, and cut off all the other leaves, flower stems, etc., and then bury the bulbs in the sandy soil and wait for the dormant period of summer to come.
In mid-July, dig it out, put it in the refrigerator room, keep it at 4 degrees Celsius, promote germination at low temperature, wait for the growth point to sprout, continue to bury it in the sand, water it once every 15 days, and wait for it to be potted in December.
Hyacinth plants are low and neat, with dignified inflorescences, rich flower colors and beautiful flower postures, and are one of the famous bulbous flowers that bloom in early spring, and they are also important potted flower species. It is suitable for arranging flower beds, flower beds and planters, and can also be used as cut flowers, potted plants or water ornamentation.
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Don't throw hyacinths after flowering, such a simple treatment is planted, and there will be flowers to see in the coming year, worth!
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Just throw it away. It generally won't bloom next year, and even if some can bloom occasionally, it's still a few sparse and have no ornamental value.
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I just cut off the flowers, and the rest is to change the water every half a month or so.
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After the defeat of Hyacinth:
1> Cut the flower stems and water them normally The flower stems of hyacinths can be cut off from half the height to prevent them from being cut too low and causing them to rot downward. Do not get rainy, put it in a warm place, 15-20 degrees is ideal, the longer you maintain the green leaves at this temperature, the better, the bulb will recover more. Water normally in the early stage, and supplement phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once a week.
Potassium dihydrogen phosphate).
2> Reduce watering until it stops Gradually reduce watering and stop fertilizing starting in late April. Watering until the leaves turn yellow in late May. The carbendazim solution can be poured several times in the middle, which can effectively prevent rotten balls.
Stopping water is a gradual process, and one principle is to ensure that the leaves are green for as long as possible, so it is important to water at the right time. In the early stage after flowering, the bulbs of the plant expand rapidly, and the water demand actually needs to increase, so it needs to be fully watered, but not waterlogged. It is also necessary to fertilize properly, preferably potassium dihydrogen phosphate, solution once every 10 days.
The water should be cut off after May, first extend the watering interval, wait for the dry time and then water a small amount, and stop the water in June. (At this time, it is best not to get rained) after 10 days of water stopping.
Preservation of hyacinth bulbs: After digging the balls, in fact, the roots have been aged, you can pick them by hand, and the yellow leaves are also removed by the way, first dry for more than ten days, and then soak them in carbendazim solution for 40 minutes, take them out to dry and bag them and hang them, be careful not to hurt the outer cortex, and check them once a week. Since I dug up the balls in June, the normal storage temperature is good as long as there is a temperature of 20 degrees - 25 degrees, and my temperature is often above 30 degrees in summer, and it is nothing.
About refrigeration: The purpose of refrigeration is only to promote flowers during the Spring Festival, and it cannot be refrigerated immediately after harvesting, at least after putting it at room temperature in August (from pilling to refrigeration to two months of room temperature storage) before starting 5 degrees of treatment. In fact, it is not necessary to refrigerate, if planted at the end of September, it is estimated that the temperature in October will soon drop below 5 degrees, and it can be put outdoors for natural vernalization, and potted plants should not experience low temperatures so as not to freeze the root system.
When you get it in the house in early December, it will bloom in about 60 days, so you can catch up with spring.
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I also hydroponic hyacinth for the first time this year, just cut off the flowers last week, and the flower bulbs have just entered the soil and novice is waiting for maintenance knowledge. However, I heard that in the summer, you have to take out the flower bulbs and put them in the refrigerator and plant them in October, and you can bloom for specific details, so you still need to consult experts.
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Mine was put directly in the soil, and according to the nutrients, if the big ball had hope in the second year, the small ball would basically be lost.
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