Gardenias do not sprout new roots after being repotted, and the leaves turn yellow

Domestic gardenias, to master its physiological characteristics, in order to make the leaves, flowers, fruits are beautiful, improve the ornamental value.

Precautions. 1. Acid-loving soil: soil, water and fertilizer contain alkali, which makes the plant unable to absorb iron, and affects the formation of chlorophyll and branches.

Withered, scorched leaves, and even died. Use fertile, loose, well-drained acidic soil, such as mixing pine sawdust into the soil, the effect is also very good.

2 like shade: avoid scorching sun exposure, but often some people mistakenly think that gardenias require full shade, so as to cause mistakes in cultivation, in fact, pay attention to the cultivation of its cool environment at the same time, to maintain 60% of the light throughout the day, in order to meet the needs of its growth.

3. Moisture-loving: If the air humidity is lower than 70%, it will directly affect the differentiation of flower buds and the growth of flower buds, but too much humidity will cause root rot and branch withering, and leaf yellow falling off. In addition to normal watering, the foliage and nearby ground should be sprayed with water frequently to increase the air humidity.

4 Fertilizer: It is advisable to apply ripe soybean cakes, sesame sauce residues, peanut bran and other fertilizers, which can be acidic after fermentation and rotting, but must be applied with thin fertilizer, avoid thick fertilizer, raw fertilizer, and do not apply fertilizer during hibernation. If it has been planted for less than three years, it is important not to apply human feces.

Excessive nitrogen fertilization will result in thick branches, large leaves, and thick green, but no flowering. When phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are deficient, there will also be no flowering or flower buds wilting and falling off.

5 Temperature-loving: the growing period is 18 to 22, the overwintering period is 5 to 10, and below 10 is susceptible to freezing.

6. Timely pruning: Gardenia has strong germination power, easy to overlap branches, dense and unventilated, and nutrients are scattered. When the shape is positive, it should be based on the tree shape.

Gardenias. Select three main branches, and ask to prune the other branches that have sprouted from the root tillers at any time. After flowering, the branches should be truncated in time to promote the germination of new branches under the cutting. When the new branches have grown three knots, the topping is carried out to avoid blind growth.

7. Prevent yellowing. There are four:

Iron deficiency. The soil contains too much limestone, alkali, phosphorus, manganese, etc., which will affect the absorption of iron by plants, affect the formation of chlorophyll, make the young leaf veins lose green, spread the whole leaf, and can be applied 1 500 ferrous sulfate water or alum water every 10 days.

Magnesium deficiency. Acidic red loam soil and potassium and ammonium are prone to magnesium deficiency, so that the veins of the old leaves in the lower part of the plant lose green and yellow, and can be sprayed with 1% to 2% magnesium sulfate solution, but excessive application of magnesium will cause calcium deficiency and hinder the development of xylem in roots and stems.

The potting soil is too wet or too dry.

Summer exposure. Gardenias like fertilizer, but it is advisable to apply more thin fertilizer. The soil is acidic and well-drained.

After transplanting, the seedlings can be topdressed once a month; Prune once a year from May to July, cutting off the apical tips and prompting branching to form a complete canopy. Adult trees remove the failed flowers, which is conducive to vigorous flowering in the future and prolongs the flowering period. Potted gardenias should be poured out of stagnant water in time after rain, and alum fertilizer water should be applied in time when the leaves are yellow.

During the growth of gardenias, the leaves often turn yellow, and the reason is mostly caused by poor cultivation management. Too much water, too little sunlight, too much or too little fertilizer will cause yellowing of leaves, but the yellowing situation is different, and the causes should be carefully observed and analyzed, and corrected.

Water yellow: the young leaves are dark yellow and dull, the old leaves have no obvious changes, the branches are small yellow-green, and the new shoots are shrunk and not long, indicating excessive watering. Depot the flowers, put them in a ventilated and cool shade, and dry the soil ball before putting them back into the pot.

Dry yellow: the yellow of lack of water is different from the yellow of more water, the yellow of lack of water is the withered and dry leaf tips or edges, and the old leaves are withered and yellow from the bottom to the top, but the growth of new leaves is relatively normal. Pay attention to watering when watering enough, water thoroughly.

Burning yellow: strong sunlight directly shines on some shade-loving flowers (such as spider plant, hosta, etc.), which is easy to cause the leaf tips and leaf edges of flowers to wither, and the sunny part of the leaves to appear yellow spots. Move to the pubic area.

Lack of light yellow: If the leaves are shaded for a long time, the leaves cannot get enough sunlight to form chlorophyll, and the whole leaves turn yellow and then fall off, and the disease can be avoided by supplementing light.

Fat yellow: the yellowing of flowers caused by excessive fertilization or excessive concentration is manifested in the dry brown appearance at the top of the new leaves, the general leaf surface is thick and dull, and the concave and convex are not stretched, and the old leaves are scorched and yellow. Fertilization should be stopped immediately, and part of the fertilizer should be washed with plenty of washing in severe cases.

Lack of fat yellow: It is manifested in the color of young leaves becoming lighter, yellow or light green, while old leaves are more normal or gradually turning from green to yellow. Check the potting soil, if there is a dry knot, the soil should be changed, and the thin fertilizer should be applied frequently and some alum water should be poured in a timely manner.

Gardenia leaves turn yellow from bottom to top, add it after changing pots, and the leaves are full and greenish.

Gardenia should be watered in both the root repair period and the slow potting period, if the potting soil is too wet, the roots will lack oxygen, it will be difficult to grow new leaves, and it is easy to breed bacteria, resulting in root rot. At this time, as long as the soil is slightly moist, the root system will grow vigorously and the nutrients will be sufficient to produce new leaves.

If you have not completely passed the slow potting period, it is best to place the potted plant in a place of astigmatism, so that the root system can better absorb nutrients and promote leaf growth. If the light is too strong and the water evaporates a lot, its ability to absorb water will be weakened and new leaves will not grow.

If the plant is not in good condition during the maintenance period, do not rush to fertilize, otherwise the root system will not be able to absorb it, but will bring fertilizer damage. If there are still leaves on the plant, you can spray fertilizer to improve resistance. If there are no leaves, do not apply fertilizer, wait for new leaves to grow before applying.

During the maintenance period, it is necessary to ventilate more, and new leaves will grow faster only when the environment is suitable. If conditions permit, the deciduous plants can be placed under the tree to maintain them, so that they can grow faster.

In the daily maintenance of gardenias, there are often no new leaves, at this time should ensure sufficient sunlight, avoid direct exposure, choose acidic soil. At the same time, it is necessary to control the number of watering, too much or too little will cause the gardenia leaves to fall off, when fertilizing, do it once every ten days or so, pay attention to placing it in a ventilated environment.

When cultivating gardenias, alkaline soil should not be used, which will cause a large number of leaves of gardenia to fall off, and acidic soil should be used, which should contain more humus. When blending soil, ferrous sulfate can be added to improve, with humus, garden soil, ripe soybean meal according to 4:4:

1 scale.

If you want gardenia to flourish, you must ensure adequate light. In spring and autumn, it can be moved outdoors to ensure eight hours of light per day. However, it should be noted that too strong sunlight should be avoided, as exposure to the sun will cause the gardenia branches and leaves to turn yellow and fall off, and it should be moved to a shaded place at noon in summer.

In the case of gardenias, if the soil moisture is too high, the rhizome will rot due to lack of oxygen, and if the moisture is too low, the leaves will dry up and fall off. So what to do if the gardenia does not have new leaves, then we need to control the number of watering, once every three days in spring, less in the morning and more in the afternoon in summer, and in autumn and winter, we should wait for the soil to dry when watering.

Fertilizing gardenias in large quantities will not only not make them stronger, but will also prevent them from producing new leaves. We should pay attention to controlling the frequency and amount of fertilization when fertilizing. Generally speaking, fertilization is applied once every ten days or so, about one or two each time, and it can be increased once a month in summer.

Don't leave the gardenia in a closed environment for a long time, place it in a well-ventilated place, and pay attention to keeping the environment ventilated, so that the gardenia can grow new leaves more quickly.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of gardenia leaves, and the common one is caused by the physiological disease of "lack of green". Whether it is potted or ground grown, it is more common if the soil is alkaline or iron-deficient. Iron deficiency is manifested as loss of green and yellow between the veins of young leaves, which will cause the whole leaf to turn yellow, and even scorched leaves and branches wilt, and finally cause plant death.

Therefore, it is best to choose well-drained, loose and fertile acidic soil for gardenias; Potted plants should use 2 parts of humus and 1 part of garden soil, and it is better if you add some mountain mud to mix. Yellow leaf disease occurs in the growth period from May to September, and 0. can be added to the fertilizer solution1 ferrous sulfate or 0 5 reaming sulfate, applied 1-2 times a month, can receive better results.

Gardenias love sunlight, but should not receive strong direct sunlight. The ground planting should have a shady environment for large trees, which can make its leaves tender and green and shiny. Potted plants should be placed in a shady place for maintenance, not on the balcony or sundeck, otherwise it is easy to burn and cause leaf yellowing and leaf scorch.

Gardenias like moisture and fertilizer, and summer potted plants should pay special attention to watering in the morning and evening so that the potting soil is often kept moist. During the hot summer season, spray the foliage with clean water every morning and evening, and sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase the humidity of the air. When there is a lot of rain, you should pay attention to drainage, otherwise it will make the roots rot and the leaves yellow.

During the growth period, 20 to 30 rotten cakes, fertilizer water or human feces can be applied every month. Especially in the dry season of summer and autumn, combined with watering and topdressing of available phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizer, the leaf color can be evergreen, and the flowers and leaves are beautiful.

At this time, the leaves of gardenias absorb a lot of light to produce nutrients to ensure flowering, and it is not yet the time when the yellow leaves are present.

It is not possible that the new potting soil is iron-deficient, nor is the soil acidic or alkaline (gardenias prefer slightly acidic and neutral, humus-rich soils with a good grain structure).

Rather, there are three most common causes of yellow leaves: watering too much and waterlogging - local root rot. Improper application of chemical fertilizer - local root rot. Lack of sunlight.

Yes, it is necessary to use breathable and permeable unglazed clay pots for cultivation, and the gardenia must be watered "not dry and watered, and watered thoroughly", and the potting soil must be tested dry and wet with a small stick, and must not be watered every day.

Yes, the fertilizer can not be applied directly to the roots, can not be applied too much can only be applied once a month, according to the plant and pot size each time 10-30 grains evenly applied to the pot side of an inch of soil.

Yes, gardenia is a sun-loving plant, which should be placed in a sunny place for cultivation, and must not be placed in a dark place with a backlight for a long time.

1. Soil. It is necessary to choose loam soil with good permeability, good water and fertilizer retention. 2. Temperature.

Gardenia in 20-25 is its optimal growth and development temperature, flowering temperature is 26-28, after 4-5 years of cultivation of plants, can tolerate a short period of -3 low temperature, -5 below that suffer frost damage, leaves black after falling off, young shoots freeze to death. In winter, indoor maintenance should be maintained at 6-10 degrees, and the minimum should not be less than 0. If the room temperature is higher than 15, the south-facing doors and windows should be opened, properly ventilated, and the temperature should be reduced, otherwise it is easy to cause germination, and it will be harmed by low temperature, which is extremely unfavorable to the growth and flowering of the next year.

3. Illumination. Gardenias like abundant light, especially in spring and autumn, to give more than 8 hours of sunshine a day, otherwise it is not conducive to its growth and development and winter overwintering. In summer, avoid strong light exposure at noon, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and it is necessary to place astigmatism for maintenance, and the light transmittance is 40-50.

In winter, it is placed indoors in direct sunlight facing south. 4. Fertilization. Gardenia is not a very fattening flower, but because it grows vigorously and is limited by the nutrients of potting soil, it needs to be reasonably supplemented with fertilizer during the growth period.

Apply rotten human manure or cake fertilizer every 10 days or so, stop watering 1 day before fertilization, and water once at the same time on the day of fertilization. Fertilization will be stopped from mid-September. For adult plants, apply sesame paste residue once in mid-June and mid-August, two at a time, and mix well with the topsoil after crushing.

5. Watering. Gardenias like big water, and some people call it "water gardenia". In spring, due to the windy winds, dry air and scarce rainfall, water is watered every 3 days, and water is sprinkled every morning and evening around the potted plants to increase air humidity.

In summer, when the weather is hot, it is necessary to water less in the morning and water thoroughly after 2 o'clock in the afternoon. In summer, it is advisable to water with soft water, because the hard water contains more calcium and magnesium salts, which is very unfavorable to the growth of gardenias. In order to overcome the alkalinity of the soil and water quality, alum fertilizer is watered once a week during the growing season to keep the gardenia branches and leaves thick.

Watering should be controlled in winter, not dry or watering, long-term excessive water content, easy to cause root rot and death. 6. Topping. In order to regulate and control the growth of gardenias, make the plant beautiful and promote flowering, the tips of new branches are removed in the spring when vigorous growth is about to stop, and the axillary buds at the base of the branches are full and the flower buds are full.