Can bayberry trees be planted in pots at home with nutrient soil?

Hello friends, bayberry tree potted plants are best planted with ordinary garden soil, if planted with nutrient soil, the porosity is better, the roots are not able to hold, easy to blow the wind will be crooked.

Bayberry conservation management.

The time of planting. Under normal circumstances, our planting time is around the spring month, and the survival rate of planting bayberry at this time will be much higher. It can also be planted in the fall, and around October, we have to keep warm after planting, otherwise we will freeze to death in the winter.

If the bayberry is not planted according to the season, this will happen, one is that the growth process of the bayberry becomes longer, and the time to bear fruit will naturally be delayed. The second is that the survival rate is not very good, and the phenomenon of dead seedlings often occurs. The third is that the quality of the fruit is not good, and the fourth is that when the bayberry tree grows to the later stage, it will age faster, and the life span of the tree will naturally decrease.

Temperature: The growth temperature of bayberry does not need to be too high, and the darker environment grows better, and the temperature can be generally controlled between 15-21.

Watering: Bayberry is less resistant to drought, so it needs to be watered frequently.

Light: Bayberry does not have a large demand for light, and should avoid sun exposure in the high temperature season.

Fertilization: Based on the principle of applying more thin fertilizer, the amount of each time should be controlled, and adult plants need to increase the amount of fertilizer to promote branching and fruiting.

Summary. Bayberry is suitable for cultivation in acidic or slightly acidic red or yellow soils, but also in mountainous areas such as purple soil. It is better to have loose, well-drained, gravelly, sandy soil with a pH in between.

Bayberry is suitable for cultivation in acidic or slightly acidic red or yellow soils, including purple soils and other mountainous areas. It is better to have loose soil, well-drained, sandy manuscript containing gravel and pH between them.

1. Go outside to pick up some deciduous leaves, yellow leaves, deciduous leaves, yellow leaves, and the leaves of woody broad-leaved trees such as camphor, maple leaves, and sycamores are appropriate. Then blanch the leaves with hot water to sterilize and disinfect; 2. After disinfection, cut these fallen leaves, which is more conducive to mixing with the soil and decomposing faster; 3. Fill some garden soil in the field or green belt in the plastic bucket, then put some leaves after being wide, put them flat, and then cover with a layer of garden soil, and then put a layer of leaves, in this order, the last layer is dry soil, no need to water. 4 layers will do, don't exceed 4 layers.

When each layer of leaves is finished, you should water a little, not too much, just moist; Put a little grapefruit peel or orange peel to remove the smell) 4. Then cover it with a black plastic bag, do not seal it completely, and leave a mouth to ventilate, so that the fermentation will be faster. Finally, put it in a place with light and high temperature, and if the temperature is high in summer, it will generally be fine for 2-3 months. (During this period, we can pour water once or twice to brush the pot and wash the rice water to keep it moist and conducive to fermentation.)

You can stir it at a later stage, so that it can ferment and rot more evenly. If you see the leaves rotting and dark brown, it means that they are well rotted and no worse than the soil you bought. When you use it, you can put it in the sun or heat it to disinfect it. )

Bayberry can not be planted at home, because the size of the bayberry plant is larger, planting at home covers a larger area, and bayberry is suitable for growing in a sunny and well-ventilated environment, planting at home can only provide it with astigmatism, and bayberry will attract pests in the process of growth, and it is easy to pollute the environment when planted at home.

1. The space is small

Bayberry cannot be planted at home because it is large in size and suitable for growing in an open and wide environment, while the space at home is relatively narrow and not suitable for the growth of bayberry, so it cannot be planted at home. If you want to grow bayberry, you can plant it in your garden or yard, or you can plant it next to your house.

2. Insufficient light

Bayberry cannot be planted at home, because bayberry is a light-loving plant, suitable for growing in a sunny environment, insufficient light will lead to poor plant growth, yellowing leaves, and the home environment is a sufficiently astigmatic environment, can not provide direct light for bayberry, so it is impossible to grow bayberry at home.

3. Suffering from insect infestation

There will be insect pests in the process of growing bayberry, and when breeding at home, it will also attract some pests, thereby polluting the environment at home, so you can't plant bayberry at home, and it's best to plant it outdoors. In the process of maintenance, you can spray insecticides for bayberry to eliminate pests on the plant and let the plant grow healthily.

4. Poor ventilation

The branches and leaves of bayberry are very luxuriant, and the ventilation is poor, so the bayberry needs to be maintained in a well-ventilated environment in order to make up for the plant's own ventilation ability, and can not be placed in a very poorly ventilated environment, so as not to prevent the plant from growing normally, but the environment at home is poorly ventilated, so bayberry is not suitable for planting at home.

Can you plant bayberry trees in your yard.

Bayberry can be planted in the yard. It is generally auspicious and can bring good luck to the family. In addition, bayberry also represents freshness and refinement, and after flowering, it gives people a refreshing feeling, so it can be planted in the yard.

Bayberry trees are planted in the yard, and it is best to plant them in a sunny place, because there is a lack of light when growing, and if you don't get enough light, it will affect the growth of the whole plant.

Yard planting bayberry trees is contraindicated.

1.It cannot be planted in the middle of the yard. Bayberry trees generally cannot be planted in the middle of the yard because the middle is an important location.

If you plant bayberry trees, it will affect the overall lighting effect of the yard. 2.It cannot be planted near a window.

Bayberry trees are taller when they grow up, and maintaining them next to windows is likely to affect the light in your home.

Methods and points of planting bayberry trees in the courtyard.

1.Bayberry trees need to be selected before sowing. Generally, it is enough to use full and healthy seeds. 2.Fertilizing bayberry trees requires sufficient nutrients during the growth process, so it is necessary to ensure that fertilization is done once a month or so to promote the growth of bayberry trees.

You should choose the right time to apply fertilizer, and also control the amount of fertilizer you apply, so that the bayberry tree can grow better.

First of all, it is necessary to choose the right fertilizer according to different planting stages, and then it is also necessary to reasonably match the type of fertilizer, and then also pay attention to the density of planting, and at the same time in the process of planting, you should also do a good job of drainage, and then you can also choose the way of mixed fertilization.

First of all, we should choose the right fertilizer, and at the same time, we need to prescribe the right medicine, water and fertilize in time, strengthen water and fertilizer management, pay attention to the dosage, and ensure the fertility and permeability of the soil.

Cultivation method:

1. The planting time of bayberry is generally from late February to mid-March, when the temperature has begun to warm, it is best to choose a cloudy day or a light rainy day, and the survival rate of a single plant is high at this time. The selection of varieties should be based on different regions, and the early, middle and late maturing varieties should be reasonably matched, which are suitable for planting water chestnuts and black bayberry in the west mountains of Suzhou. Choose strong, rich roots, no pests and diseases of high-quality Suzhou Xishan bayberry grafted seedlings, in the dug hole filled with 10-15 kg of rotten manure and 5-10 kg of coke marl, moderately shallow planting, and then around the plant to cultivate a small soil furrow and cover the soil in time to avoid rooting.

Suzhou Xishan bayberry dioecious, planting 1-2% of male plants for pollination.

2. Fertilizer and water management.

In the current year, the forest land can be interplanted with annual lettuce, medicine or green manure to improve soil fertility efficiency. Young trees are mainly used with fast-acting fertilizer, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are applied together, and fertilization is applied 2-3 times all year round. Adult trees are topdressed twice a year, the first time in late winter and early spring before budding and shooting, apply 1-2 kg of farm fertilizer or superphosphate to the roots of each plant; Or apply 1 kg of potassium sulfate plus kg of urea, or 15-20 kg of kg of urea plus coke marl per plant.

After application, it will be covered with soil. The second time is after fruit picking, accounting for 50-55% of the annual fertilizer amount, according to the principle of more fruit and more fertilization, one by one in the crown drip line to open a 10-20 cm ditch, apply nitrogen fertilizer kilograms, kilograms of phosphorus, potassium fertilizer and 30-50 kilograms of soil miscellaneous fertilizer covering. The fleshy roots of the bayberry tree in Suzhou Xishan are easy to be damaged, so avoid damaging the roots when digging holes.

Foliar fertilizer can also be applied during the fruit development period, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate or potassium sulfate can be sprayed l-2 times. In addition, do a good job in soil improvement, remove water, etc., to ensure the high quality and high yield of bayberry in Suzhou Xishan.

3. Shaping and trimming.

The shape of the bayberry tree is dominated by a natural round head shape. The pruning of young trees is mainly to shape the trunk and cultivate the body of the tree with early fruit and high yield. Generally, "one stem and three main branches" natural heart-shaped canopy is used.

That is, for the new shoots that germinate after the drying, select 3-4 branches with strong growth, uniform distribution in orientation, and a certain distance (about 20-30 cm) from each other as the main branches, and select and leave 2-3 secondary main branches or side branches on each main branch, so that the distribution is reasonable, the hierarchy is clear, and the crown skeleton is basically formed within 3-5 years. The pruning of adult trees is mainly to cultivate a high-yield group structure, regulate the relationship between growth and fruiting, and promote sustainable, high-quality and high-yield. Plastic pruning is divided into summer shears (opening angle, topping, twisting, budding, pulling branches, taking branches, cutting and peeling, etc.), winter shears (thinning, retraction, stubbing).

Artificial regulation of growth and fruiting.

4. Pest control.

Bayberry has strong resistance to stress, and pests and diseases rarely occur. However, due to the changes in the ecological environment, it is also very necessary to do a good job in the observation and comprehensive control of pests and diseases according to local conditions. The main insect pests are white scales, leaf roller moths and bag moth pests.

The main diseases are brown spot disease, red coat disease[2], carcinoma and so on. Prevention and control methods. strengthen cultivation management and enhance tree potential; Prune diseased and dead branches in a timely manner; Do a good job of clearing the garden in winter, remove fallen leaves and weeds, and burn them intensively.

Bayberry is dioecious, but it bears fruit without pollination.

The soil ball needs to be slightly larger, and the bayberry has mycorrhizae, so it is best to bring some original soil (bayberry rhizobia in the soil to help the bayberry root absorb and decompose nutrients) when transplanting, so as to facilitate survival and rapid growth. Acidic soil is better than acidic soil.

Plum generally prefers to be transplanted with large seedlings. Cultivated bayberry should be transplanted after 3 or 4 years, and the plant spacing should be 4m or 6m, which can also be determined according to actual needs.

The specifications of digging holes depend on the thickness of bayberry seedlings, and the length and width are appropriate. Before transplantation, sufficient basal fertilizer should be applied at the bottom of the hole (top dressing can also be applied after planting). Bayberry seedlings must be with soil mass, the size of the soil mass depends on the seedlings, generally DBH 3 5cm with soil mass diameter of 15 30cm.

When the bayberry seedlings rise, first dig out the soil around the soil mass, and use a straw rope to tie the upper part of the soil ball firmly and tightly to prevent the soil mass from loosening. Then dig out the bottom soil, cut off the taproot, gently lift it to the ground, and then tie the whole soil ball with a straw rope and tie it firmly.

Before planting, bayberry should be reasonably pruned according to the actual need of the tree type to prevent excessive evaporation of water and dryness. After the seedlings are put into the planting hole, the grass rope should be cut around to facilitate the close combination of the soil filling, and make the grass rope perishable, the seedling rhizosphere topsoil should be higher than the ground 5 10cm when planting, and water thoroughly, depending on the transplanting season to consider the shade situation, the survival rate can generally reach more than 95%.

Bayberry prunes in autumn for the light of 10-November. Autumn pruning is the key to the differentiation of flower buds and the healthy development of flower organs. The flower buds are very long, and the middle-aged bayberry is in the summer and autumn shoots before the sale of 7 September.

After heavy pruning in the autumn and spring pruning of the previous year, the fruiting group with branches has been formed. These short branches essentially diverge into flower buds. At this time, cutting off the long branches that grow in the later stage and evacuating the overly dense clumps of fruiting mother branches can make the whole body of the tree nutrients transfer to the flower bud differentiation and flower organ development in the next few months.

Autumn pruning can promote the composition of the mother branch group of shoot fruiting. The earlier the pruning, the greater the likelihood that the leaf buds will be similarly differentiated, and the shorter the length of the shoots, the more outstanding the flower buds will be formed in the second year. Autumn pruning is the basis for 65% spring shoots.

The essentials of pruning bayberry.

Thinning: Cutting a branch or group of branches from the base of the branch. The overly dense auxiliary branches can be strong and weak; the erection of the opposite side of the main branch and the main branch; Thin branches with strong branches that are too strong at the top of the canopy, or too many branches when the crown is formed.

Stubbing: Cutting off part of the branch from the middle of the branch. The technique is to promote the growth of multiple new shoots, the renewal of fruiting mother branches, and the renewal of weak trees.

Pull the branches: Pull the branches away in a more directional direction. The technique is to open the canopy, let the sun shine through, ease the tree's momentum, promote flower bud differentiation, improve fruit yield and can bear fruit earlier.

Circumcision: Use a knife to cut in a ring on a certain part of the branch, deep into the xylem, and apply "Kao No. 2". The technique is to make the young and middle-aged bayberry trees that are too vigorous to form flower buds, and transform the growth function of the fruit tree into reproductive function after circumferential cutting, so as to promote the composition of flower buds and improve the fruit yield and yield in the coming year.

Heavy fertilization in autumn and heavy fertilizer in autumn can make bayberry plants accumulate a lot of nutrients, ensure that flower buds are fully differentiated, and flower organs are fully developed and sophisticated. Heavy pruning in autumn only provides the possibility of promoting a large number of spring shoots, and re-fertilization after autumn pruning, due to the superposition effect, the reproductive growth is strengthened, and the vegetative growth is controlled, so that the spring shoots appear in the form of "short branch group" and form a large number of short spring shoots fruiting mother branches.

Fertilization criteria: less nitrogen fertilizer, no phosphorus fertilizer, and more potassium fertilizer. Each plant is applied to 2 3 male catties of vegetable cakes, or 20 30 male catties of column fertilizer. Potash fertilizer should be carried out during the production period, due to the loss of potash fertilizer.

Fertilization of juvenile bayberry: The key to fertilization is to apply thin fertilizer more often, and apply fertilizer several times a year. Generally, at the beginning of shoot budding in March, fertilizer is applied once a month, and each male pound of fertilizer is applied until the growth of summer shoots is stopped in July.

Basal fertilizer is applied in September and October, 10 20 male catties per plant, or double fertilizer. The amount of fertilizer is increased with the age of the tree, and the amount is increased with each application.