Can anyone tell us about their experience making gunpla?

Novices do HG first.,HG is very simple.,At least that's what I think now.,Don't say much.。

Besides, MG's, sometimes there are some problems that are not a problem, especially when doing MG, you should be careful with those with words, such as the knee of the destiny deluxe version, the first one is afraid of being damaged, and it is always not installed, and the one should be put into the card with a hard click, so the strength of the hand should be controlled, and the relatively thin piece should be resisted with your fingers, otherwise it will break.

In addition, the spout should be clean, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of gaps.

Something else,I respect the prime group.,Pay attention to this point for the prime group.,To say coloring.,I don't have so much money to buy equipment.,If you want to see the precautions, go to the tall model bar to see.。

The Jett Bread upstairs must be a weak man in the old hands, or he bought a pirated copy, such as a pirated HG CG CG, and he couldn't ......hold it at allBut the genuine one will never have this problem, please rest assured to buy the genuine !!

When it comes to buying, it is necessary to go to model stores and peripheral stores to buy, don't buy it at the counters of department stores and shopping malls, which are very expensive (for example, if you see someone on the Internet buying a 1:100 mg luxury version of strikefreedom in a shopping mall, it costs 798 yuan, while the general peripheral store can buy 1:550,800 yuan at most

60 pg of strike).

Sometimes it's a little annoying, and it's always piling up and messing up.

If you want to have experience, it is recommended to go to some forums.

The first step to the challenge is coloring, starting with a marker, then spraying, and finally airbrushing. In this process, you will encounter a variety of different difficulties, and move forward in overcoming, which is exactly the fun of making models, the second step is the transformation of the rubber board, using different thicknesses of the rubber board to build the details, such as adding scribing, thickening the cuirass, adding spouts, etc.;

The third step is to add metal supplements, there are various metal supplements sold on the market, such as rivets, metal spouts, etc., which are all to make the model more realistic;

The fourth step is weathering, which can be done with a marker or an electric grinder, which is to have a Gundam that has just returned from the battlefield;

When you do all four of the above steps well, you are a hobby master.

Boxed plastic models, such as HG, MG, PG, BB are all boxed, plates, and ...... made by yourselfOf course, there are also people who sell their finished products, but these finished products are generally much more expensive than the original model, and they may be more than two or three times more than doubled.

Of course, the ** here refers to the finished product with a high degree of completion that has been polished, deseamed, sprayed and even transformed! Simply cutting parts out of the runner and putting them together will only depreciate ...... value】

There is also a type of finished product series, which is the finished product when it leaves the factory. The runner technology that LS said is a cheap movable product of Haiyangdo, but it doesn't come out of Gundam, and it has nothing to do with Gundam. Chogoki is also a general term for toys that contain alloy parts, and it has little ......to do with Gundam

The most common Gundam finished series are as follows:

1 200 HCM (discontinued),

1 144 shcm (not out), fix (upgraded to gffn), gffn.

Proportionless MIA (not out), robot spirit.

1 100 MB, GFMC

SDX of SD

and so on......These finished products are also more expensive than boxed plastic models, and the quality varies, such as SDX, SHCM, GFFN, GFMC, MB are all high-specification finished models. The liveries of these series are still very good, but the other relatively cheap series of liveries are worse, at least not ......exquisite

Moreover, the finished model still has low-level problems such as poor handling of nozzles and parting lines (even if there are more than 1,000 pieces of GFMC), and some of them do not even deal with the joints.

If you make your own model, it is easy to reach the level of the finished series with dim sum, and it is more economical. Most importantly, the do-it-yourself process is the most fun.

Of course, if you have the money, you can still buy the finished ......

……There are finished products to sell, wheel technology or superalloy are good choices, of course, you can also buy finished products from others.

There are finished products**, and there are also their own paints to sell on the Internet, such as the GP03D original 1500 after the painting 3000 The fun of making a model lies in the hands-on! If you're too lazy, buy an hg, a total of 5 boards!

There are finished products, of course, it is best to do it yourself to enhance your hands-on ability.

Mostly yes. It's fun to do it yourself.

The finished product of the fix is also good, and the ** is still alive.

If you're too lazy to do it, you can try it, and forget about what you have done well.

It can be thought of as an assembling toy...

First of all, you need to know the classification of GUNPLAs.

PG, perfect grade bai

The scale is 1:60, with a very intricate skeleton of the du, originally the head.

ZHI can add LED lights, from the single dao

The horned beast began to be designed for a full-body light, and there was a full range of hands.

mg, master level, the ratio is 1:100, there is a skeleton, the articulation is good, the details are richer, the mid-stage skeleton has a wealth of mechanical details, but there are fewer details at present, and there are all-hands-on in the later stage.

hg, advanced, with a ratio of 1:144, no skeleton, average articulation, average details, occasionally there will be more conscientious and detailed works, this level has the most models, the level is more close to the people, and the hands are modeling hands.

RG, real grade, the ratio is 1:144, there is a one-piece skeleton, rich details, good color separation, and some fingers can be moved on the hand, which is very delicate due to the small proportion of the rich series.

RE, a new level, no skeleton, rich series, modeling hands, specially out of other levels of the body that has not been out but is more popular.

Once you know the levels, you need to have several tools to make a model.

Scissors: Used to cut out parts.

Pencil knife: used to repair the nozzle of the cut part.

Sandpaper and sander: The sander is used to flatten the sandpaper, and the sandpaper is used to polish the nozzle of the flat part.

Basically, with these, you can assemble a model, and the rest will need to be added slowly after you enter the pit, and the more you play, the more you will know what tools you need.