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Your fish has a common ailment in aquarium fish, which is skin mold. It is also known as water mildew and white hair.
The pathogens are the genus Hydro, Honeymycesis, Isomycetes, Hymycetes, Pythium, etc.
Symptoms] When fishing and transporting ornamental fish, a little carelessly, the fish body is injured, or parasites invade and destroy, the spores of mold invade the wound, absorb nutrients, germinate quickly, one end of the hyphae goes deep into the muscle, and one end grows outward, forming cotton wool-like hyphae. When mold is just parasitic, it is not easy to detect with the naked eye; By the time the naked eye sees it, the hyphae have invaded the wound on the fish's body and are growing from the outside to the inside. The hyphae are entangled and adhered to the cells and tissues of the wound, causing tissue necrosis.
Due to the increasing number of cotton wool-like mycelium, the fish body is overburdened, causing swimming disorders, loss of appetite, and becoming thinner and weaker, resulting in death.
When ornamental fish are infected with mold, they are also affected by the length of time they are exposed to light. Prolonged periods of rain or lack of indoor lighting, daylight, etc., can all contribute to the growth of mold. The body of the fish infected by mold is usually covered with a layer of white pannus, especially the black and red fish are the most obvious, thus losing the luster of the fish body.
Subsequent sluggishness, often sluggish, floating on the surface of the water, if not timed**, the fish body mold spreads, the affected muscles rot, loss of appetite, and eventually lead to death.
**Method] Dermatomycosis can occur all year round, with early spring and late winter being the most common. In order to prevent the occurrence of water mildew, attention should be paid to prevent damage to the fish body and parasite bites as much as possible during operation, and a small amount of coarse salt can be put into the water to inhibit the occurrence of water mildew.
When the fish is found to be infected with water mold, it can be soaked in 3 salt water, 1 time a day, 5 10 minutes each time, or soaked in potassium permanganate solution of 2 parts per million (2 ppm) plus l salt for 20 30 minutes, or soaked in malachite green solution of 1 to 2 parts per million (1 2 ppm) for 20 30 minutes, or soaked in 1 to 2 parts per million (1 2 ppm) of methylene blue solution for 20-30 minutes, or soaked in 5 parts per million (5 ppm) of nitrofuracillin solution, Or splash 0.02 parts per million (malachite green solution) and 0.3 parts per million (formaldehyde solution directly into the aquarium to inhibit the growth of mold.
It can also be used to increase the water temperature to inhibit the growth of water mold. Installing a 15-watt UV lamp on the top of the aquarium for several hours a day can effectively inhibit or eliminate the growth of water mold.
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It may be a water quality problem, so change the water frequently and strengthen the filtration system. If it's rotten, it's best to apply yellow medicine.
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It seems to be rotten flesh.
It is recommended to apply red syrup to the affected area, salt the water appropriately, and rest alone.
It is better to go to the aquarium and buy special medicines to prescribe the right medicine.
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Go to the market and buy some yellow powder. I can't remember the exact name. You just say yellow powder.
Take it back and apply it to the affected area.
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The insulator reunion joint flies over the sea machine
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(1) The cause of the disease.
The most common cause of goldfish illness is poor water quality, especially high levels of ammonia and nitrite in the water. Regular monitoring of water quality and frequent water changes are the first steps to prevent goldfish from getting sick.
The second reason is the nervousness and anxiety of the fish, such as: a variety of fish polyculture interferes with each other, the environment or feeding mode changes abruptly, the light is too strong, the noise is too loud, etc. Stress can make goldfish less resistant and more likely to get sick.
2) Common diseases.
Water mold. Symptoms: Fluffy batting-like material on the body or fins.
Causes: Fungal infections, which tend to develop when the immune system is weakened, such as injuries from fights.
**: Antifungal drugs (e.g. fungicell).
White spot disease. Symptoms: White spots appear on the body, mainly around the tail and fins.
Causes: Single-celled parasitic infection, prone to onset when aquarium temperature and pH fluctuate wildly.
**: Antiparasitic drugs (e.g., ichtocell).
Fish lice. Symptoms: restlessness, rubbing and rolling.
Cause: Parasitic infection, usually caused by the addition of new fish infected with the parasite to the aquarium.
**: Antiparasitic drugs (e.g., ESHA 2000).
Edema disease. Symptoms: bloating, protruding scales, swollen eyes.
Causes: Bacterial infection, which is prone to disease when poor water quality leads to low immunity.
**: Antimicrobial drugs (e.g. trichosal).
3) Steps.
Remove the diseased goldfish from the aquarium for isolation.
Drugs should be given to isolated goldfish in a targeted manner, and broad-spectrum drugs (e.g., ectocell) can be used if the type of disease cannot be identified.
Raising the temperature of the aquarium to 28 degrees Celsius can have a sterilizing effect.
Change the water in the aquarium by 30% for the first time and 10% daily for the next 4 days.
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