Why is the shutter not exposed in the sun with 1 100s

It was not facing the sun, it was in the shadows. And it can be on the nd. And the parameters can be modified manually. In addition, I don't like this**.

What not to expose? I don't get it!

**Parameters are the lens is 16-35, aperture, shutter 1 100 sec., ISO100.

Analysis of the picture and parameters: first, this is not in the sun, but in the shadows, (the stone pillar next to it with the same parameters has been exposed to the sun and turned white); The second sensitivity is very low, only 100, the lowest level, which is also conducive to image quality; Third, 16-35mm is a wide-angle zoom head with a constant aperture, and the photo display is the aperture used (that is, for **, also for image quality, the image quality of the lens at the maximum aperture is not as good as the image quality after shrinking one or two stops), which is two and a half stops lower than the aperture of the fixed focal length lens, which means that it is 1 6 of the amount of light entering the fixed focal aperture, in summary, 1 100 seconds will not explode, similarly, if the above series of parameters are still used in daylight, you can also use ND filter to make the picture not explode, However, at that time, the dark part of the picture will have no details due to the tolerance of the camera, and the ND lens itself will also affect the image quality to varying degrees.

This ** was taken in the shadows, ISO100, 1 100s shutter will not be overexposed.

1 100 sec. shutter speed, 1 stop down is 1 50 sec., 2 stop down is 1 25 sec., 3 stops down (approx.) 1 12 sec.

In the camera, the difference between each stop is exactly 1 times the light transmission.

In the absence of an anti-shake system, in order to obtain a stable enough image for handheld shooting, the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens is generally chosen as the "safety shutter". For example, with a 50mm lens, the safe shutter is 1 50 seconds. When using a safe shutter speed (or a faster shutter speed than a safe shutter), you can effectively reduce the chance of blurry images due to hand shake.

With the optical image stabilization system, the camera uses a floating sensor or a floating lens lens design, and the camera automatically compensates in reverse to reduce the blur caused by shaking. Generally, the safety shutter can be lowered by about 2-3 stops.

It's just that the time is getting shorter and shorter, and it means the divide.

1 2s, you can understand as 1/2 of a second, that is, seconds,

1 All exterior shutters can be 1 250 to 1 2000 seconds, this is all combined with the aperture, and the sensitivity setting is also related, and the correct ** value obtained in different environments is different.

No matter what the environment, the faster the shutter, the less light will enter. The shutter determines the length of time, the faster the shutter, the shorter the time, and of course, the less light will enter.

There is no specific limit to the shutter, so you can use as much as you want. After all, sometimes you want the effect to be clear, and sometimes you want a dynamic ghost effect, it depends on how you want to express it.

The shutter speed is inversely proportional to the amount of light entering, i.e. the faster the shutter speed, the less light is entering. But it also needs to match the aperture and the sensitivity (ISO).

They're too troublesome to tell you about the exterior and you're going to look at the aperture well, and the close-up is usually 4-8 shutter and the machine does the math for itself.

If it's a full overexposure:

Filters with light reduction, such as polarizers, will generally reduce the aperture by 2 stops, and the medium gray density mirror can reduce different light intensities according to different models.

If it's a local overexposure:

Filters will reduce the image quality***, this size depends on the quality level of the filter. (The filter is easy to fake, one point is one goods, the market is more chaotic, and you need to be cautious when purchasing!) ）

No way? 1 4000 seconds, even under the sun, the aperture will not explode!

**A certain amount of light is required**, and when the outside light is insufficient, the shutter opening time can only be extended to allow enough light to enter, which is what the camera has to do in order to normal**. In addition, the larger the ISO, the higher the sensitivity of the sensor, and the smaller the shutter required, of course, the shutter will be long if it is 100, and the shutter speed can be several steps faster when adjusted to 800. However, 600D is better not to make too high ISO,1600 is basically the limit,No matter how high it is, it will hurt the image quality。

If you solve it, you must bring a tripod for night photography... There is no better way.

It's because the shutter speed isn't enough.

When taking photos at night, because the environment is dark, the camera will reduce the shutter speed for a long time in order to ensure normal**. The shutter speed may be in the tens of seconds.

For night photography, you can choose to open the maximum aperture and increase the ISO appropriately to increase the shutter speed.

But boosting the ISO will make a lot of noise on the **.

Generally, night scenes are shot with a tripod, the lowest ISO, and the long ** technique, which can shoot the effect of Ambilight.

The light is too dark at night, the ISO sensitivity is too small, and only opening the aperture can not effectively improve the shutter speed. You can try to increase the sensitivity, and the 60d sensitivity should be within a controllable range of 800 or 1600.

You can try to use M gear to take photos at night, and try the aperture + shutter + sensitivity combination.

It's inherently contradictory to have both fish and bear's paws, and to have a fast shutter speed and a clear and noise-free image in the dark. There are two solutions, one is to put on a tripod, no matter how slow the shutter is. The second is to improve the sensitivity and open the aperture.

Finally, you can use a flash when lighting a small environment, but don't expect it to be good.

The higher the aperture, the greater the light transmission, but the ISO is the opposite, the lower the ISO, the lower the sensitivity to light.

Even if you shoot night scenes, even if you have a large aperture, in the case of ISO1600, it is below 1 100s, which requires sufficient light on the spot. Below 1 to 10s is also common in dim light. Don't judge a camera by the human eye.

If it is a night scene sweeping street, or a night scene that is not serious, ISO1600 or above, the high sense of 60D is still acceptable. It is better to use the RAW format so that you can get more information.

If you are looking for a serious night scene and are looking for picture quality, you still need to use a tripod.

In this case, there are two aspects involved:

1. The light is dark at night, and it takes a long time to shoot, so it takes a long time.

2. After a long time, the time for the camera to process the information is also extended accordingly, so that the time is longer.

Obviously, your aperture setting is too small, what gear are you using?

Use the S gear, try the shutter first, don't use the M gear.

What environment is underneath? Aperture?? ISO value???

If you want 1 1000 seconds out of the film, it should be outdoors during the day.

Unless, the indoor light is very good, the ISO value is the largest, such as 3200 or more, and the aperture is the largest!

It depends on whether you use the dead automatic or manual, if it doesn't work, restore the factory settings, and then try it with the automatic transmission.

You may be using automatic or some other mode.

If you use M gear or speed priority mode, it will be very fixed**Speed 1 100 shooting, because the ** of other gears is automatically combined according to the intensity of the light, and I want to fix it at 1 100

Then you can only use M gear or speed priority mode.

In the settings, adjust the shutter stage to 1 stop.

The current situation is due to the fact that it has been adjusted to 1 3 gears.

To lock 1 100s, select shutter priority mode or M mode, and then manually set the shutter speed at 1 100s, the shutter speed of other modes is automatically adjusted according to the settings of aperture, ISO, ** compensation and other parameters.

The cold boiled water itself is boiled, and it is a good drink after sterilization and precipitation. Put it in the sun, but the temperature can be slightly raised, nothing else has changed, and the sun has a strong bactericidal effect, so you can drink it with confidence.