GUNPLA color problem, what color is used for GUNPLA bleed

Not all GUNPLA has to be painted, and it's a bit of a hassle. If the technology is not enough, the model will be destroyed. If you are a lover of perfect models, or if you like a certain pose, it is recommended to color, any scale can be colored.

HG has the ability to suggest coloring due to the small number of parts, poor color separation, and insufficient details.

There are many mg parts, and it is quite good not to color, and with super mobility, it is not meaningful to color.

If you have to fiddle with it from time to time, don't color it.

By the way, I think it's good to save the money on coloring tools and paints to buy a MG!

If you really like models and want to make it right. Then it is recommended that you color them all, but it is difficult to color. I did three or four sets before I basically mastered it, and it's not very good yet.

From the model itself, Bandai's model color separations are very good. mg is better than hg because it is one to one hundred and is more meticulously done. If you're just playing, it's good that MG isn't colored, but if you don't get the coloring technique, you'll ruin the model.

I really like models, and I've done a lot of them. By the way, I recommend you a magazine that is the best model magazine in China, mainly Gundam and figures. Newsstands can be found.

HG MG is already fine, unless you want to remodel or change the color, and you don't need to keep the original.

mg is already very good, now even the Vulcan cannon can be parted, no need to color.

The PG hormone group is basically fine.

MG needs a proper hook and thread to have a high degree of completion.

HG sometimes needs to be painted by itself.

Generally, white nails are gray, blue can be dark colors such as black, red is brown, and hair loss is basically white, that is, gray is more.

Bleeding threads are actually the same as hooking threads, but they have a better feeling of fullness than hooking threads.

Seepage is safe and fast. It is economical and easy to master. In fact, there is basically no technical content in the seepage line, which is definitely more convenient than using Gouda Mark!

Bleeding steps:First mix the paint (Linlang paint, zeppo oil) This is the most critical basic ratio of 1:2.

After the enamel paint is dry, rub it with zeppo oil in the vertical direction of the line, not too hard, and rub it slowly.

After wiping, use a paper towel felt with a little zipoo to slowly absorb the excess paint, pay attention to whether it is sucking and not wiping.

Steps to complement the GUNPLA color: 1. First, apply model glue on both sides of the model to be seamless, and remember not to be afraid to apply thick if it is not firm. A small amount of one application is sufficient.

2. At this time, there is glue oozing, no need to tube, after drying, or use the method of treating the nozzle to polish it smooth and smooth. If you engrave the thread, it will be polished off, so you can re-deepen it with a needle. (If you don't have a needle, you can use a compass needle instead, which is also very useful.)

3. After the seamless completion, the dust is then filled, mainly to cover the color of the model itself. Spray back and forth gently, many times, pay attention to the distance (depending on your own conditions, the most important thing is the feeling, you grope for this yourself). It can be completely covered, and the background color can not be seen.

If you are sprinkler spraying and there is no ash to fill the soil, spraying gray paint can actually be done. 4. Adjust the air pressure and find a small white offset plate for spraying and color testing. Because there may be multiple colors on a part, we need to separate the model ourselves.

In this case, we need a masking strap to cover up. After the painting is completed, a coat of matting paint is sprayed for paint protection. This completes the GUNPLA's complementary colors.