How do I make shoot cuttings? How to cut shoots from cuttings

Gardenia shoots cuttings, good vitality, rooting and survival super fast.

1. Select branches.

Cuttings should choose stout and healthy new branches, start from the bottom of the node to cut the length of about 10cm of the branches, cut off the bottom of the leaves, leave 3-4 pairs of leaves, the cut should be slightly oblique, which is conducive to rooting and water absorption.

2. Cuttings process.

First, use chopsticks or other materials to plug the soil, release the seedlings out of the small hole, and gently press with the fingertips to compact the soil. When finished, water the soil thoroughly and maintain it in a cool place to wait for rooting.

3. Transplant and pot.

It can take root in about 2 months, choose perlite with large particles as the substrate, transplant the seedlings into suitable pots, and use iron wires to arrange the branches into shape for normal maintenance.

Common methods of cuttings:

1) Branch cuttings (also known as stem cuttings). It is currently the most widely used method for propagating flowers and trees. Branch cuttings are divided into young branch cuttings and hard branch cuttings.

2) Root plugging. New plants are grown by germinating from adventitious buds on the roots. This method is suitable for flowers and trees with hypertrophic fleshy fibrous roots or straight root systems, such as peony, peony, wisteria, crape myrtle, Lingxiao, begonia, etc.

3) Leaf cuttings. The wound portion of the leaf vein is used to produce healing tissue, which then germinates adventitious roots and adventitious buds, resulting in the formation of new plants. This method is commonly used for some perennial grass flowers with thick leaf veins, succulents such as Sedum and agave, and individual evergreen woody flowers.

Leaf cuttings are divided into flat method, straight insertion method, etc.

1. The branches used for cuttings propagation must be healthy and free of diseases and pests, and the more vigorous the plant itself, the faster the cuttings will be rooted, the growing branches are easier to root than the dormant branches, and the new branches are usually easier to root than the aging branches, so the cuttings should be selected to be well developed, and the color of the branches is between the green young branches and the brown lignified old branches.

2. The incision should be as smooth as possible, so don't pinch it with your hands, don't cut it with scissors, and don't bite it with your teeth, because the Ming faction will squeeze the incision to varying degrees and destroy more cells. The best way to do this is to cut it with a sharp knife, and I prefer to use a razor blade. (You can also use a knife, but be careful to disinfect before use.)

Vertical, or oblique, angle greater than 45 degrees is good, not too sharp.

3. The length of the branches is centimeter and centimeter, it depends on the surplus of the branches. Some of the lower leaves are removed, leaving a leaf that is almost there. The branches are long, and the leaves are more removed.

It's not good to be too long. In order to avoid rapid dehydration and withering of cuttings, the lower leaves of cuttings should be completely cut, and the upper leaves can also be completely cut. If cuttings are not taken immediately, they should be covered with a damp cloth, napkin or moss, or put in a plastic bag and dripping with appropriate water to moisturize.

4. Generally, cut on the "nodule", within 1 mm below the leaf bud, or even divide the leaf bud into two. Let's just say that it is cut on the petiole.

Management after cuttings: The ideal temperature for cuttings is about 20-25, and it should be placed in a shady, bright and ventilated environment after cuttings. In order to reduce the rapid evapotranspiration of water, it is necessary to absolutely avoid strong direct sunlight, and can be shaded with gauze, blackout nets, etc., but excessive shading cannot carry out photosynthesis, and it is difficult for hair roots to survive.

Cuttings need to be kept at a high level of humidity (about 70-80%) before rooting, and should be sprayed frequently to keep them moist.

If you want to take root as soon as possible when cuttings, you can dip the branches in a small amount of special rooting powder, which can inhibit infection and have a faster rooting speed. You can also use what you have at home to make your own rooting solution, you can dilute vinegar with water at a ratio of 1:100, soak the branches for a day and then take cuttings.

You can also soak the willow tree in hot water for a day, and take out the solution to soak the branches for cuttings. You can also dip it in honey or aspirin solution, and then cuttings can increase the speed of rooting.

1. Special rooting powder: If you want to take root as soon as possible when cuttings, you can use special rooting powder, dip the branches in a small amount of rooting powder, and then use it to dry cuttings, which can inhibit infection and have a faster rooting speed.

2. Vinegar solution: If you don't have a special rooting powder, you can also use what you have at home to make your own rooting solution. Vinegar is relatively common, it can be diluted with water at a ratio of 1:100, then mixed evenly, and the branches are soaked for about a day, and then used for cuttings.

3. Wicker soaking in water: willow branches contain substances that promote rooting, you can cut some willow branches, and then soak them in hot water for about one night. Before cuttings, the shoots can be soaked in these solutions, and then used for cuttings can increase the rooting speed.

4. Dip honey into the roots: If you have honey at home, you can also dip the branches in the honey of the locust and then use it for cuttings.

5. Aspirin: You can also use aspirin to root, dip it in aspirin solution, and then cuttings can improve the speed of rooting.

Cuttings are the mother of the plant, the cuttings required to have excellent variety, vigorous growth, no disease and insect damage and other conditions, growth and senescence of the plant should not be selected as the strip mother. On the same plant, the cuttings should be made with the middle and upper part, the branches that are full of sunshine.

1. Choose one-year-old, robust branches.

Take the moon season as an example, it is best to cut off the branches with green and many bud points, and do not use the aging and lignified branches; Thin twigs do not need. It's best not to use it if you look at the spots, it may be diseased, and the risk of cuttings is high.

2. The length is 8-15 cm, with 2-3 bud points.

There is no special requirement for the length of the truncated branches, some flowers are relatively small, such as geraniums, sunflowers, etc., 6 cm can be cuttings, and the triangular plum can be a little longer, with at least 2 bud points or more.

Hope it works for you.

Today I will teach you how to choose the right branches when cutting fig branches!

In summer, shoots should be cuttings before the growth of new shoots is slow and the growth of new shoots stops. Generally from the end of May to.

Back in early September, cuttings in the rainy season are conducive to the rooting of cuttings. The depth of the spike cuttings should be shallow, generally about one-third of the length of the cuttings. After cuttings, the cuttings should be upright, and the density of cuttings is generally 3 cm to 10 cm for coniferous species.

Broad-leaved trees can be appropriately thinner, with no overlap between the leaves, and spray once after insertion.