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The load-bearing wall refers to the wall that supports the weight of the upper floor in the masonry structure, which is a black wall on the engineering drawing, and will destroy the entire building structure if it is knocked out; Non-load-bearing wall refers to the partition wall does not support the weight of the upper floor, only plays the role of separating one room from another, and is a hollow wall in the engineering drawing, and whether there is this wall has no big impact on the building structure.
The load-bearing wall is scientifically calculated, and if the load-bearing wall is perforated and decorated, it will affect the stability of the building structure and change the system of the building structure. It is a very dangerous thing, and it is better not to change the load-bearing wall for non-professional designers.
Whether the wall is a load-bearing wall depends on whether the wall itself is load-bearing.
The thick solid line part in the construction drawing and the wall under the non-load-bearing beam in the ring beam structure are all load-bearing walls. The on-site inspection of the wall without prefabricated ring beams must be load-bearing walls. Non-load-bearing walls are generally marked with thin solid lines or dotted lines on the drawings, and are walls made of lightweight and simple materials, while non-load-bearing walls are generally thinner and are only used for partition walls.
Generally speaking, all the walls of a brick-concrete house are load-bearing walls; The walls inside a frame structure house are generally not load-bearing walls. Of course, when it comes to the structure of the house itself, to determine whether the wall is a load-bearing wall, it should be determined after carefully studying the original architectural drawings and going to the actual site investigation.
When personal renovation, you can simply distinguish between load-bearing walls and non-load-bearing walls by combining the following points:
1. Distinguish from the structure of the house
Generally speaking, all the walls of a brick-concrete house are load-bearing walls; The walls inside a frame structure house are generally not load-bearing walls.
2. From the grade of the house: the general low-end residential buildings and villas are made of brick and concrete. The high-end ones are more frame structures.
3. Distinguish from the material of wall tiles: the wall of general standard brick is a load-bearing wall, and the aerated brick is a non-load-bearing wall.
4. From the thickness of the wall: the 150mm thick partition wall is a non-load-bearing wall, such as the bathroom and kitchen.
5. According to the combination of the beam and the wall, it is generally the load-bearing wall that is closely combined between the wall and the beam; The method of diagonal bricks used is a non-load-bearing wall.
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If it is the old house that does not have a frame, it is best not to move, open a window or door opening, but it is definitely not recommended to push the whole wall, if the whole wall is pushed, although the house will not collapse, but it will definitely cause the overall load-bearing, resulting in cracking of other walls. If it's a frame, it's easy to deal with.
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Case-by-case analysis.
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Load-bearing walls are required for self-built buildings in rural areas. When building a new house, you must first lay a solid foundation, and the foundation is above the load-bearing wall. A load-bearing wall, as the name suggests, is a wall that bears the main weight of a house, and such a wall must be strong and durable.
Most of the main frames are load-bearing walls, while others are force-reducing walls. In rural self-built houses, the thickness of the load-bearing wall is mainly the three-seven wall or the two-four wall.
The important role of load-bearing wallsA load-bearing wall is a wall that supports the weight of the upper floor, which is identified by a thick solid line on the drawing. Non-load-bearing walls are generally marked with thin solid or dashed lines on the drawings. Depending on the structure of the house, the internal partition walls in a frame structure house are generally not load-bearing walls.
Alteration of load-bearing walls is serious on causing the collapse of the house. The load-bearing wall is scientifically calculated, and if the load-bearing wall is perforated and decorated, it will affect the stability of the foundation.
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In brick-concrete structures, the structural columns and ring beams play the role of ties.
It is not good to have such a long gable wall with no longitudinal support in the middle.
It would be better if the first floor had a structural column in the wall of the beam.
If only the longitudinal wall stacks are set on the second floor (or the second and third floors), it will not play a tie effect, but will increase the load of one layer (which has the opposite effect).
Longitudinal wall stacks are placed at the same location on the first and second floors (or on the first, second and third floors) as a tie-puller.
In short, it is necessary to have roots.
Suggestion: Scheme 1: Remove part of the wall under the first layer of beams and add structural columns.
Option 2: Adjust the placement of furniture in the house and add the wall stacks you mentioned in the same part of the first, second and third floors.
Another: It is recommended to set up ring beams at each floor slab, if it is your own house, it is not bad for this money, and it is better to be safe.
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