Why when surfing, people do not fall into the water

When surfing, people should bend down to keep their bodies balanced and prevent them from falling into the water.

1. Surfing is an extreme sport powered by waves, surfers lie prone or sit on a surfboard in a suitable place in the sea to wait, when the suitable waves are gradually approaching, the surfer adjusts the direction of the board head, lies prone on the surfboard and strokes in the direction of the waves, gives the surfboard enough speed to keep the surfboard in front of the waves, when the waves push the surfboard to slide, the surfer stands up, stands up with his legs back and forth, bends his knees slightly, and uses the body's center of gravity, shoulders and hind legs to control the direction of the surfboard.

2. Surfing is a starting point for athletes to lie prone or kneel on the surfboard and paddle to a place with suitable waves with their hands. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the athlete keeps the surfboard in front of the crest of the wave and stands up, with the legs naturally open in front of and behind (usually the balance leg in front and the control leg behind), and the knees are slightly bent and follows the wave to glide quickly.

3. When walking out towards the beach, the angle of holding the surfboard in your hand should be in a straight line of surfing, and you must not put the surfboard in front of your body to prevent the waves from hitting your body. When you put it on the ground, put it on the sand and cover it on the surfboard when it is very windy, or tie a safety leash, and stand on the front edge of the downwind direction to avoid being injured by your own surfboard. When the surfboard is washed back to shore from the open sea and is about 30 cm deep in the water, it is necessary to get off the board immediately to avoid the surfboard hitting the rocks directly.

4. Surfboards are sports equipment used by people for surfing. The surfboard used initially was about 5 meters long and weighed 50 to 60 kg. After the Second World War, styrofoam sheets appeared, and the shape of the plates was also improved.

The surfboard used today is about 60 centimeters long, about 60 centimeters wide and 7 10 centimeters thick, the board is light and flat, the front and back ends are slightly narrower, and there is a tail fin that stabilizes together at the lower back. To increase friction, a waxy outer film is also applied to the surface. The weight of the entire surfboard is only 11, 26 kg.

Why do surfers not fall into the water?

Summary. Surfers are not afraid of being swept away by the water because they have mastered surfing skills and techniques through professional training and practice. They can maintain their balance and stabilize in the waves by adjusting their posture and using the strength of the surfboard.

Surfers usually choose the surf area and know the shape of the waves and the tide conditions to ensure their safety. In addition, many surfers also wear special surfing gear such as life jackets and ankle straps for added safety. Because they have enough knowledge and preparation for the surfing environment, they are not afraid of being swept away by the water while surfing.

Surfers are not afraid of being swept away by the water because they have been professionally trained and practiced, and have mastered the surfing skills and techniques of the jujube book. They can use the power of the board by adjusting their posture and bench to maintain their balance and stabilize in the waves. Surfers usually choose the surf area and know the shape of the waves and the tide conditions to ensure their safety.

In addition, many surfers also wear special surfing gear such as life jackets and ankle straps for added safety. Because he has enough knowledge and preparation for the surfing environment, they will not be afraid of being swept away by the water when surfing.

I'm sorry I don't understand, but can you elaborate on that?

Surfers have mastered the technique and use of surfboards through professional training and practice, and are able to maintain their balance in the waves. They choose suitable surfing areas and familiarize themselves with wave formations and tide conditions, using special equipment for added safety. Therefore, they will not be afraid of being swept away by water.

Summary. Surfers are not afraid of being swept away by the water because they have certain skills and experience to control their body's balance in the waves. They will cope with the impact of the water by mastering the stability of the surfboard and adjusting the center of gravity of their body.

Additionally, surfers often wear professional surfing gear, such as surf suits and fins, which can provide additional buoyancy and control. As a result, surfers who have been trained and mastered surfing skills are better able to cope with the forces of the waves and reduce the risk of being swept away by the water.

Surfers are not afraid of being swept away by the water because they have the skill and experience to control their body's balance in the waves. They will cope with the impact of the water by mastering the stability of the surfboard and adjusting the center of gravity of their body. Additionally, surfers often wear professional surfing gear, such as surf suits and fins, which can provide additional buoyancy and control.

As a result, surfers who have been trained and mastered the skills of burying several waves can better cope with the force of the waves and reduce the risk of being swept away by the water.

I'm still a little confused, can you be more detailed?

Surfers use skills and experience to control their body's balance in rough seas, adjust their center of gravity and use surfing equipment to cope with the impact of the water, reducing the risk of being swept away and demolished.