Nikon D600 set of lenses, Nikon D7200 what kind of camera

First: depending on what your budget is, this is very important, and the peripheral products that follow up after buying the camera are not a small amount. Memory card, UV lens, camera bag (this one will gradually change size depending on your lens), tripod, flash, vertical grip. It's not a small expense.

Second: If you go to the D600, then it is a full-frame machine in FX format of the mud pit company, and all lenses with DX cannot be used, which must be clear. The 18-105 and 55-300 mentioned upstairs are DX heads, and they are not available on D600.

So it depends on whether you buy a full-frame machine, or an APS-C format.

Third: It depends on what you want to shoot, landscapes, portraits, animals, insects, indoor or outdoor, these are all related to your choice of lens, so you need to decide what aspect of the camera to recommend to you to target.

Keep in mind that a large zoom lens is certainly not as good as a small zoom lens, and a small zoom lens is certainly not as good as a prime lens.

It's better to buy a set of more cost-effective to buy an 18-105 is basically enough for you to use, and you can also start with 55-300 in the future, and the cost performance is also very high.

If you have money, go to 85120, that thing** is about the same as your fuselage. If you don't have enough budget, you have to go to the hood.

There may be many friends who still don't know what camera Nikon D7200 is, and what is its format, so I'll briefly talk about it below.

The Nikon D7200 is a DSLR digital camera.

According to the information provided, you can understand what kind of camera Nikon D7200 is. In terms of framing, the D7200 has a pentaprism with 100% coverage, an OLED display in the viewfinder, and a very useful horizontal display function of the camera, which is quite helpful for us to align the level when shooting.

The Nikon D7200 supports WiFi and NFC NFC functions, which can be used for transmission**. The shape of the Nikon D7200's body is still typical of Nikon style, and the handle is wide and thick, which has a good grip to ensure sufficient stability when shooting.

The Nikon D7200 is equipped with a one-inch, 1.23-million-pixel LCD screen with a wide viewing angle of 170 and an integrated glass structure, allowing users to see clear images in bright outdoor environments. You can also calibrate the color balance of the LCD display to your liking.

What is the Nikon D7200 format

The Nikon D7200 format is an APS format camera.

The Nikon D7200 continues the tradition of its predecessor with a grip design that fits the curvature of the palm of your hand, enhancing grip comfort and preventing the camera from slipping off accidentally. In terms of storage, the Nikon D7200 inherits the D7100'Dual SD card slots, and also supports UHS-I interface for high-speed cards.

On the side of the Nikon D7200 body, there are now very mainstream external device jacks, including MIC interface, interface, HDMI** output interface, **monitoring interface and remote control accessory interface. Through these device jacks, users can use a variety of external expansion devices, especially in terms of recording, you can enjoy a more professional control experience.

Summary of the problem of what camera Nikon D7200 is. The size of the Nikon D7200 is only 765g, and the body is still made of lightweight and durable magnesium alloy. The D7200 has a built-in flash flash index of approximately 12 (m, ISO 100, 20oC) and can be used alone or controlled by the camera's wireless trigger to control two sets of remote flashes.

Photography for beginners: From an APS-C perspective – the DX lens (PIAN) head (YI) shall prevail.

Even though the Nikon D7200 is a high-end flagship SLR camera, it is still an APS-C camera, so the lens is matched with a high-quality and inexpensive DX format lens, which is suitable for home users who are new to photography, and there is no intention of upgrading to full frame.

Set lens 16-85mm or 18-140mm

The set lens is indispensable for this kind of user, and the focal length of the lens is a common focal length and is used in a wide range. Among them, Nikon AF-S DX 16-85mm IF-ED VR is a DX format, excellent performance of daily use, VR performance is very good, to a certain extent, it can be said to have the quality of Nikon gold circle lenses, imaging belongs to Nikon set of lenses is very good.

The equivalent focal length is that it is possible to shoot large scenes** at the wide-angle end, and at the telephoto end, it can shoot distant scenes.

Tamron B005As for the lens, 50 is good, you can know it when you use it, it must be much better than this. **, 18140+ does not exceed 2k5, and it can be cheaper to buy parallel goods or second-hand, basically between 2k-2k5.

The lens has two fingers in film and television, one refers to the optical components used by the movie camera and projector to generate the image, and the other refers to a continuous picture shot from the start to the shutdown, or the clip between two editing points, which is also called a lens.

One finger and two fingers are two completely different concepts, in order to distinguish the difference between the two, one finger is often referred to as an optical lens, and the other is referred to as a lens picture. According to the origin of the lens, it is mainly classified as Japanese lenses and German lenses. The Japanese lens mainly has a better color reproduction, and the German lens has a strong sense of hierarchy.

Chinese lenses in the market are also gradually occupying a certain market, mainly because they are relatively cheap.

Nikon D600, with 24-85mm is suitable, in the future, you can consider using 80-400mm lens! If you feel that the wide angle is small, you can directly match it with Nikon 14-24mm, of course, **expensive! However, Sigma has a large wide-angle zoom lens of 12-24mm, which is cost-effective and can be considered.

Nikon 28-300mm lens, which belongs to the configuration of one lens to go all over the world, is cost-effective, saving the trouble of changing lenses, but 10x zoom, the image quality will inevitably be affected somewhat.

As for the prime lens, 50mm 1,8 d, 4d are fine, depending on the budget, the difference is not big!

The old man can use it on the D600, but if the lens is too old and has not been digitally optimized, the effect is not as good as the new lens!

24-120mm, including the wide angle to the initial telephoto section, and can ensure excellent image quality, 4 levels of anti-shake VR, so it is more expensive!

If you are a novice, it is recommended to 24-85, after all, where are the pixels of this machine, the field of view is more important, and you can take a screenshot if you want a close-up. 28-300 imaging is definitely not as good as the sleeve, and generally less than 300 such a telephoto, and there is also a 24-120 that also belongs to the world of one lens. I haven't used it, but I look at the ** in the forum, I feel like there is a chromatic difference, in short, the zoom factor is too big, and it's not good.

Another 50,。。 This head can be used.,It's a little shabby on the hanging machine.。。。 It's definitely not good to look at together. It seems to be a manual aperture. It's better to go straight to the g-head.

What does the landlord want to shoot?,I see that you have considered it from wide-angle to telephoto.,From fixed focus to zoom.。

I don't know how well the landlord uses a SLR, and I personally recommend that I use it with a set of 24-85. Wait until you've taken a short shot before considering changing lenses.

The wide-angle head is definitely cheaper with the analogue, but the distortion is definitely more serious. See if you can accept it.

The Prime 50 is definitely better than the one. Of course, this so-called good needs to be appreciated.

These old men can be used, but I don't know what the landlord wants to shoot more. SLR, don't think about it in one step, it will never get to the place, it's better to take it slowly.

Hope it helps

Air quality is the enemy of photography.

Star track with a larger aperture, higher ISO, 10 30 seconds** (for example, I tried with F4,400-800 sensitivity),**value according to the metering value to determine, first take a few shots to try the appropriate amount**, after determining the amount, shoot for a few hours in a row, this is physical work, and then use startrail software to synthesize a few hours of ** can become a star track.

Actual aperture, shutter, ISO, determined according to actual ** needs, focus manually adjusted to infinity, or hyperfocal length (I don't know this). The most important thing is the tripod, shutter release or remote control.

It is worth mentioning that the long exposure noise reduction set by the fuselage should be turned off, otherwise there will be a noise reduction interval for each shot, and the next one cannot be taken immediately.

On dusty nights, you can only increase the contrast to eliminate the gray feeling. At least that's my experience, I don't know if there's a better way to do it, and the best way is to shoot in the suburbs.

With a tripod, the camera is fixed on the tripod, and then adjusted to the M gear, ISO 100 aperture F8-16 The shutter depends on the scene, and you can see that the light meter is just right in the middle**. That is, use a slow speed, if there is a shutter release line, it is better to add a shutter release line, if not, it is recommended to use timed shooting (because if you press the shutter directly and leave the camera, it may cause the camera to have a slight pan offset).

Star Track: ISO300 Be sure to use a tripod The shutter can be adjusted a little slower I haven't encountered a dusty night But for night scenes, it is appropriate to use M gear As for the parameters, it depends on the situation, but it should also be fixed with a tripod, and the shutter should be slow.

It takes a long time to shoot star tracks**, and you need to get on a tripod and a shutter release cable, these two things are to prevent shaking, and then there is to jump the ISO to the lowest, and then the camera modulates the bulb, in an open place, find the Dipper or the most central axis of a competing star, press the shutter release line and push the shutter release cable to a fixed point (you need to buy a shutter release that can use the b-bulb), and then wait for 2 hours to release the shutter release. Try it a few more times.

Like Nikon, Canon, etc., there are free lectures, you go to find a study, and communicate with professionals.