When to prune walnut trees in spring, spring walnut tree pruning time and methods

First, the initial fruiting period.

During the period from the beginning of fruiting to the large number of fruits, the vegetative growth of walnut trees is vigorous, the canopy is expanding year by year, and the number of fruits is increasing year by year. At this time, pruning, in addition to continuing to cultivate backbone branches at all levels, should also pay attention to retaining auxiliary branches, thinning out useless dense squeezing branches, long branches and weak branches, so that all kinds of branches are evenly distributed. The inner chamber of the canopy should be appropriately left with more fruiting branches, and should be kept sparse and moderately dense to increase the fruiting area.

The growth of backbone branches at all levels is adjusted by removing the strong and leaving the weak, so as to maintain the balanced development of the tree and cultivate a plump crown.

Second, the full fruit period.

Walnut tree to the full fruit stage, is the highest yield period, at the same time the vegetative growth will gradually weaken, the fruit yield size of the annual phenomenon is becoming more and more obvious, the crown gradually opens, the number of peripheral branches increases, the crown inner chamber ventilation and light transmission is poor, the twigs are easy to dry up, and the fruiting area begins to decrease. At this time, pruning is mainly to preserve the fruit and increase the yield and prolong the full fruit period. It is necessary to cut off the weak branches, dry branches, overlapping branches, drooping branches, and diseased branches that are dense inside and outside the crown from the base to improve ventilation and light conditions, and promote the growth of full and robust fruiting mother branches and developing branches.

The robust shoots extracted from the chamber should be properly retained to facilitate the bore fruiting. For overly dense branches, they should be thinned year by year, and the wound should be flattened when cutting to promote good healing.

3. Aging period.

When the growth of walnut trees declines, the new shoots extracted every year are very short, most of them can not form flower buds, the fruiting ability is low, the crown is in the chest or outside the crown, the phenomenon of scorched tips is serious, some large and medium branches also begin to dry up, and the crown gradually shrinks. At this time, it is necessary to re-prune and renew to restore the tree's potential and extend the fruiting years. Focus on the retraction and pruning of the perennial branches that emerge from the scorched tips to promote their germination and strong new branches and rejuvenate the tree.

Choose a secondary branch at the retraction to promote wound healing and cryptobud germination, making it a strong new branch and rejuvenating the tree. For old trees that are too weak, the perennial backbone branches can be renewed year by year, and the hidden buds can be used to germinate strong and long branches, and the crown can be re-formed, so that the tree body can grow vigorously.

At the same time as the pruning of walnut trees, it is best to combine it with other management measures (such as fertilization, watering, pest control, etc.) for better results.

Do not cut in the spring when you get harvested.

Summary. The pruning time is after the walnut fruit is harvested and before the leaves fall, and the second is after the walnut tree germinates in the spring and before the male flowers fall.

The pruning time is after the walnut fruit is harvested and before the leaves fall, and the second is after the walnut tree germinates in the spring and before the male flowers fall.

The basic method of pruning (1) stubbing and retraction: stubbing is to cut off a part of the branch tip, and retraction is to stub on perennial branches. Stubbing and retraction can promote local growth of the tree and promote multi-branching.

Depending on the severity of the pruning, the reaction will be different. In order to improve its angle, it can generally be retracted to the branch where the perennial branch has a fork. (2) Thinning and slow release:

When the branches of fruit trees are too dense, they should be thinned. In order to improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions, promote the differentiation of flower buds. Slow release is also a pruning technique, that is, the pure limb bend is stuffy and thrown without cutting, and the buds on the branches are allowed to germinate freely.

Slow release can not only slow down the growth potential, but also help the hunger front axillary flowers to bear fruit. After the shoots are slowly lowered into flower buds, they can be retracted and pruned, and this pruning method is often used on young and vigorous trees.

3) Topping and cutting: Topping is to remove the young and tender nucleus growth at the top of the new shoot and dig the hail, and the tip is to cut the tip of a longer shoot. Its effect can not only inhibit the growth of branch tips, save nutrients for flowering and fruit setting, avoid unnecessary waste, improve fruit setting rate, but also promote flower bud formation and flowering and fruiting on other fruit branches.

Topping can also promote root growth, lateral bud germination branches and secondary branch growth.

4) Wipe the buds and thin the shoots: Wipe off the buds by hand or cut them with scissors, which is called wiping the buds. Thinning is when the new shoots begin to grow rapidly, and the overly dense new shoots are thinned.

Budding and thinning shoots can save nutrients, promote the growth of new shoots, and make them grow full; The removal of side buds and side branches can improve the light, which is conducive to the enrichment of branch tips, the differentiation of flower buds and the improvement of fruit quality. Removing the unhelpful buds and shoots of the lack of tung as soon as possible can reduce the large wounds caused by the removal of large branches and the waste of nutrients. (5) Pulling branches:

Pulling branches is to pull apart the main backbone branches with small angles. Pulling branches has a slowing effect on the strong branches. Pulling branches is suitable for spring when the sap begins to flow, pull the branches down with ropes or wires and other tractions, and the parts close to the branches should be padded with rubber or cloth to avoid strain.

North, now cut walnut trees.

Scoop shear, cut walnuts in a few months does not harm the tree.

March. If you want the walnut tree to be free of flow, you should choose to prune it in March every spring, because this is the bud break time of the walnut tree.

Good. Can't cut it now, right.

Wait until around February 25 to be able to cut.

However, March 4 is the best cut.

Mid-month to early November.

2. Walnut pruning is carried out after the walnut harvest and before the leaves turn yellow (mid-September to early November). This pruning will reduce the leaf area and affect the nutrient accumulation of the tree, which is suitable for adjusting the skeleton structure of the tree.

3. At the same time, because the leaves have not fallen, it can easily distinguish the over-dense branches and shading branches in the hall, and remove them to facilitate ventilation and light transmission, and there is no damage to the flow phenomenon at the first time.