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It's easy to identify. Generally distinguish the zippo with a few points: the fake hinge is not well fused (in other words, it is shoddy), and the circular concave shape is contrived The real zippo has the following characteristics:
1.At the bottom of the case, there is the year of production, there is also the month A for January, B for February and so on 2The side joints of the shell are broken into several channels, and if it is five, it is three narrow and two wide.
3.There is a circular gravure on the top and bottom of the joint, and if you look closely, it is not a regular circle, but a little oval. 4.
The dot above the bottom engraved zippo i is a flame. 5. Remove the shell There are words on the front and back of the bottom of the movement, and the cotton is very thick, about centimeters or so 6The cotton thread of the fire core is wound with copper wire This will take a long time There are many ways to identify, and you can compare your lighter with the above methods.
It's normal that you can't find it on the official website, because there are many zippo versions. American version, Japanese and Korean version, European version. There are also some ** light plate machines for laser engraving in China. Therefore, it is impossible to include all these models on the official website.
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There is more information on the Zippo forum.
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As a digression, it's best not to identify, since a friend sent it, it's more or less a heart, isn't it?
Wait until you buy it yourself, and then find a place to identify it.
In addition, the identification method on the Internet is very unreliable and cannot be identified.
The method downstairs can only identify the fake as the real thing, and this method is 04 years ago, which is 800 years old.
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1. Look at the inner wall of the shell:**The inner wall of the ZIPPO shell has no secondary treatment, and there will be traces of high forging temperature in the early stage of shell casting, traces of appearance after PVD process treatment (residual yellow rust stains) and spray paint residues, which are all normal phenomena. Because it is impossible to use the above process for imitations, the inner wall of the shell will be very clean and leave a layer of coating.
2. Look at the solder joints andHinges**The solder joints of the zippo are irregular artificial solder joints, shallow and irregular, and the hinges are irregular two large and three small assemblies, and are spaced apart from each other. The solder joints of the imitation are deliberately made, deep and regular circular dents, and the hinge patterns are varied, there are four and five, and the size is the same, and the workmanship is rough.
3. Look at the flint wheel and flint tube:**Zippo's flintfire wheels are clearly diamond-shaped checkered and crossed diagonally, and the flint tube is golden. Due to the limitations of the process, the imitation flintfire wheel is mostly horizontal, and there are a few oblique ones, but the grain is not diamond-shaped, and the hardness is low, and the flint cylinder is not golden.
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The methods of ZIPPO lighter to distinguish the real from the fake are: look at the logo, look at the production month, look at the bottom logo, look at the inner liner, look at the cotton pad, etc.
1. Identification. There are product logos on the bottom and inner liner of the real zippo shell, and the logo on the bottom of the shell is to introduce the production time and other information of the product.
2. Production month.
True zippo means that the English of the month is from A to L (A represents January, B represents February, and so on), and more than 100% of this range is false.
3. Bottom logo
The bottom of the real zippo is marked with the word ZIPPO very clearly, and the letter "i" is not a dot but a very fine pattern of a zippo traditional flame, the flame outline is very clear, and most of the fake machines are very blurred. In addition, the bottom of the real machine is a capital Bradford, PaInstead of.
Between Bardford and Pa is a clear little comma, not a period.
4. Liner. **There are generally many scratches on the surface of the inner tank, and even some are dirty, many of which are scratches left by processing. The inner liner material of the imitation is mostly chrome-plated iron plate, and the surface is bright.
5. Cotton pads. The cotton pads of the real zippo are very thick, usually up to thick, and are printed with clear English font on both sides, and are usually three. The imitation or fake cotton spring mat is very thin, and the texture of the cotton pad is relatively loose, not as dense as the real machine.
There is a small hole of a little over 1mm in the cotton pad for placing spare flint.
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Summary. Hello, I am glad to serve you, here after the teacher inquired about the network publicity zippo authenticity identification method; 1. Appearance, there is a circular gravure on the top and bottom of the connection of the real zippo lighter, and the two garden-shaped traces of the pressed leaf on the casing are indeed difficult to be exactly the same on the imitation machine, which can also be used as a basis for judgment.
2. The bottom of the real zippo has the year of manufacture. From 1932 to 1956, block letters were used; In 1957-1976 it was written in italics; Since 1977, the logo has been using a flame motif.
3. Since 1957, all ZIPPO lighter bases have been engraved with a mark representing the year of manufacture, making it easy for collectors to identify. Prior to this, products could only be judged by the S number or design type.
I wish you a happy life If you are satisfied with me, please give the teacher a thumbs up <>
Distinguish between true and false zippo.
Hello, I have seen the loss information of the collapse of the manuscript here, it takes a little time to inquire about your question group Qi Xiao and the text, please wait patiently for 3-5 minutes, thank you for your understanding I wish you good luck and the God of Wealth <>
Hello, I'm glad to serve you, here after the teacher Cha Layuan inquired about the network publicity zippo authenticity identification method is; 1. Appearance, there is a circular gravure on the top and bottom of the connection of the real zippo lighter, and the two garden-shaped traces of the pressed leaf on the casing are indeed difficult to be exactly the same on the imitation machine, which can also be used as a basis for judgment. 2. The bottom of the real zippo has the year of manufacture. From 1932 to 1956, block letters were used; In 1957-1976 it was written in italics; Since 1977, the logo has been using a flame motif.
3. Since the opening of the bureau in 1957, all ZIPPO lighter bases have been engraved with a mark representing the year of manufacture for easy identification by collectors. Prior to this, the product could only be judged by the S number or the design type. I wish you a happy life If you are satisfied with me, please give the teacher a thumbs up <>
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The methods of distinguishing the authenticity of the zippo include checking the hinge part, the lighter part, the cotton pad part, the concave part, and the rivet part with no yard.
1. a hinge part.
The conventional model of the hinge of the genuine zippo is 5 hinges, three narrow and two thick, narrow, wide, narrow, wide, narrow, narrow, and the counterfeit products are generally the same width. The genuine product generally protrudes about a millimeter from the fuselage, and the rollers are separated from each end of the hinge by millimeters.
2. The lighter part.
The pattern on the genuine lighter wheel is diamond-shaped twill. Zippo's lighter wheels are made from special confidential materials, and its founder, George. Mr. Breisdät also applied for a patent for this purpose.
This lighter wheel makes the zippo a dozen hits and is built to last. Counterfeit lighters are susceptible to wear and tear and fail.
3. Cotton pad part.
The genuine cotton pad is a special fiber material, about 7mm thick, very thick and relatively dense, with printing on both sides, mostly three lines, and the handwriting is clear and the spacing is large. The counterfeit cotton pads are loose and textureless, and the handwriting is blurry and rough and messy.
4. a concave part.
The pit marks of the genuine product are relatively shallow, and they are in a state of natural suppression. The counterfeit product is deeply printed, and the artificial traces are obvious.
5. Rivet part.
Genuine rivets use high-quality metal and are very strong and solid, while counterfeit rivets use low-quality metal and have a rough and uneven workmanship.
Our weasel looks like it.
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