Can someone who understands electricity please help me explain? 255

It's not normal, I now pay an office electricity bill, the most expensive kind of electricity for commercial and residential integration, 5 people 4 single rooms, 4 air conditioners often open for 8 hours, water heaters are open all day, washing machines 1 to 2 times a day, refrigerators, computers, routers are needless to say than you are only a lot more, only 900 kilowatt-hours of electricity a month, you find someone who understands to check the line, maybe someone else and you a meter, the stupidest way, a day no electrical appliances are turned on, look at the meter at every turn.

This electricity consumption is completely possible according to the described situation, the air conditioner is only on for a few hours, almost one hour of electricity, the temperature will come down and the power consumption will be reduced for intermittent work, the air conditioner and water heater are the big head, the refrigerator is 30 to 50 degrees of electricity a month, the washing machine uses a lot of electricity at a time, and the power of other fans and laptops is not large, mainly because it is used for a long time, and I am really worried that I can buy a Nortel power tester to monitor the degree of electricity consumption, dozens of dollars.

Electric fans are generally 65w = *12=

Air conditioner is about 800W on average for 8 hours a day.

Water heater 2kwh a day

The router looks like 5W, and it is calculated as 8W.

The power of the washing machine is generally only more than 100w, counting him 150 w for an hour each time, an average of half an hour a day.

Refrigerator 1-2kwh

The power of the laptop, according to the configuration, is within 150W, which is 150W, 5 hours a day, to sum up, a day is about.

It's about 366 degrees for 30 days a month, plus you charge your lights and mobile phones, and so on, it's about 400 degrees.

In addition, the air conditioner is the most power-intensive for the first hour or two, and if you keep it on, the electricity consumption will be a little smaller in the later time, so sometimes, there is not much difference between turning on 4 hours and turning on 6 hours.

Your electricity is not normal, it may be that the meter is not normal, right......You just turn on the air conditioner, an electrical appliance, and then see if the meter is too much ......1000 watts of electrical appliances once an hour shop you count.

Ground the doorknob with the wire, and then you take another electric test.

If it can still light up.

This illustrates. It's your body that carries static electricity; If the tester won't light up, that's what it means.

It's the door of your house with static electricity.

It's not normal, right? Take a good look at whether there is any waste of electricity around you!

It's normal for you to have 400 degrees Celsius on this day.

I don't know what the answer is? Who the hell can tell me? I don't know what the answer is? Who the hell can tell me?

The battery of the battery car is generally a lead-acid battery, with a voltage of 2V and a capacity of 20Ah (ampere-hour).

The inverter converts the 48 volt voltage into 220 volts and drives the 1800 watt machine to work non-stop, and it can be calculated that the current at this time is:

i=\frac=

From this, it can be seen that after the four battery car inverters are turned into 220 volts, the maximum time that can be used is:

t=frac=hourt=hour.

Therefore, it is appropriate to use a 12-volt renter 20A battery, and if a long battery life is required, you need to choose a battery with a capacity greater than 20Ah (Ampere-hour).

Answer: It is appropriate to use a 12-volt 20-ampere battery, and if you require a long battery life, you need to choose a battery with a capacity greater than 20Ah (ampere-hour).

1. Confirm the specifications of the line laid at home, such as 5 63A empty openings, supporting cables with single-strand plastic copper wire BV10 square, calculated according to square X6, more conservative, at least 6 square meters. You also have to look at the distance, if you are within 200 meters, you can basically ignore the distance.

Second, 5 63A openings, does not mean that the upper level is 5x63, because you have to consider your maximum current, for example, you turn on all the electrical equipment that can be opened, about 70A, then you can choose the corresponding air open, C63 above I don't know if there is a gear, C100 must have.

3. At the same time, you should pay attention to the empty opening of C type and D type, which is simply understood to be the use of D for electric motors at home, ordinary lighting or something, induction cooker or something, C bar. All up to the 63A level, generally on the circuit breaker. That's a lot of grading.

Remember that the total air opening can meet the maximum number of devices used at the same time, and it is good to be a little higher.

What to do at home should be such a big switch, generally 100A at home is big enough.

If you don't have a super-powered appliance at home, 50A will do.

The 40A can be used in a total of 8 kilowatts (40ax220V) of electrical power in conventional use.

1.Generally, the maximum 80A is enough, and the current is too big to jump.

2.As long as there is a break switch in the shunt, the current is selected appropriately, and the switch of the shunt will be jumped if the short circuit or the current is larger.

Calculate the total electricity current of your home, and select a high-level capacity switch. Generally, the total choice of C32 for a two-bedroom apartment is enough, and the actual equipped capacity is about 10 amps. The main switch is only a disconnection point to prevent short circuits, and the capacity is too large, and it will burn household appliances if it is not opened.

There is also an empirical formula, 80% of the total kilowatts of the actual household appliances divided by 220 is the total amount of current, and the switch of the total current number of the first level is selected.

Hello, the five switches are 63 ampere, the main gate should be at least 100 amp, if the power consumption is not very large, there is no need to install such a large gate! Ordinary household electricity main gate 63 A is fine!

It is recommended to install 100a.

There are more and more major appliances, leave some margin.

I don't know what to do at home, I see that your opening is very large, I don't understand, just tell you that the general home is equipped with C63 is enough.

Judging from your **, the black incoming wire is at least one specification thicker than the red-yellow outgoing wire (the red-yellow line should be), at least 4mm. It can withstand a current of not less than 20A. The 2000W power is only about 9A current, which is no problem for a 4 square copper wire.

There are two possibilities for the wire to be hot, one is that the screw at the upper end of the switch is not tightened, resulting in excessive contact resistance and increased temperature, causing the wire to be hot.

For this, you can touch the switch outlet at the same time. If the outlet temperature is not so high, this may be the cause. Tighten the screws.

In addition, if you look at the color of the incoming conductor, it seems to be gray, and it may be an aluminum wire. If it is really aluminum wire, its current carrying capacity is much smaller. It's normal to be hot.

This can also be judged by comparing the temperature of the wires at the upper and lower ends of the switch. If the upper end of the screw is tight, and the temperature is higher than that of the lower end, it means that the upper end of the wire is aluminum wire (you can also know by looking at the color).

Another point, if every trip is to jump the switch on the left, it proves that my judgment of these two points is correct. Because the capacity of the left switch is larger than that of the switch. The right switch is also a leakage protection switch, if there is leakage or overcurrent, the right switch should be jumped first.

The trip of the left switch is caused entirely by the high temperature of the wire screw contact point. This means that your wiring and appliances are basically fine.

The wires can't be replaced, so tighten the screws. Push harder. And use it for a few days and then tighten it again.

According to your description, it is estimated that the problem is that there is insulation damage to the wire, and you can't tell by your eyes that it is bad. If you are an electrician, or understand electricity, take the following methods to solve it.

1. An insulated shake meter for electricians, and other electrician tools (screwdrivers, vises or needle-nose pliers, electric pens, electrician's insulating tape) these are ready.

2.Operation: Turn off the main distribution switch. Turn off all the shunt switches.

3. Make each joint of the neutral line separately, not all together.

4. Turn on the switch of each appliance (so that each appliance is on).

5. Use a shake meter to measure the insulation resistance of each line (pay attention, not the insulation resistance of each neutral line and the live wire) and measure the insulation resistance of each neutral line and the live wire to the ground (clamp the clip of one wire of the shake meter on the grounding wire, and the other clip on the neutral wire or live wire to be measured).

The insulation of each zero line and live wire to the ground is generally greater than 2m, if which road is close to 0, then focus on checking the line of this road, and each electrical appliance.

The above 2 points of operation should be noted, the two clips can not be connected to the zero line and the live wire on the line at the same time, if this is operated, (the voltage shaken out of the meter is 500 volts, which will damage the household appliances at home.)

The above operation should be operated when the power is off, and it cannot be operated with electricity.

If you find out the problem, you can put the route out of the line or change the line.

If you don't know much about electricity, ask a professional electrician to help you find out.

Good luck.

This question is very troublesome and the explanation is not clear, but many families have such a situation, what does the green light refer to? Power indicator?

1. There is a problem with the tripping mechanism of the main gate, do you mean that the main gate is open empty? Or does it refer to leakage? If it is a leakage combination, it may not be a good combination, sometimes it is good, sometimes it is bad, and even if it is combined, sometimes there is no electricity.

2. The best way is to change the line! There is a possibility of trachoma in the line! Note:

If it is a leakage, it is impossible that the leakage switch will not fall off (it may also be broken, the possibility is small, you press the "press it once a month" button, and you can't see it) but the time is not fixed, and the leakage is not like an empty open, even if there is a weak leakage that does not reach the trip, it can be closed.

If you can be sure that the main switch of the distribution box has not tripped, but you have to pull down the main switch of the distribution box and then push it up to have electricity, then it should be that the contact of the main gate of the distribution box is not in good contact, and it will be good to change the main switch.

In fact, the safe voltage of electrocuted people is 36V, which is not divided into AC and DC, and once it exceeds the 36V limit, it will hurt people.

Therefore, there is only a difference between high voltage and strong current and the magnitude of the harm to people, regardless of AC and DC.

Why is 36 volts set as the limit for safe voltage? It turns out that when the human body passes through an electric current of less than 5 milliamps, it only produces the feeling of "numb electricity", and there is no danger. The human drying resistance is generally more than 10,000 ohms, and the current through the human body is less than 5 milliamperes at a voltage of 36 volts.

Therefore, generally speaking, a voltage of 36 volts is safe for the human body.

However, it should be noted that in a humid environment, the safe voltage value should be less than 36 volts. Because in this environment, the resistance of the human body becomes smaller, and the voltage applied between the two parts of the human body is dangerous even if it is 36 volts. Therefore, it is safe to use a lower voltage of 24 volts or 12 volts.

A live wire and a neutral wire should be used, not the ground wire, otherwise it will trip.

Because the ground wire and the neutral wire are different, it should be a leakage protector jump.

The purpose of the ground wire itself is to trip the air switch to protect your personal safety.

A ground wire with the live wire, as soon as the light is turned on, it will be electrocuted, and the leakage will be a matter for a while, and yours is a switch with leakage protection.

Haha, I know what you want to do, that's not okay, it's okay if you don't have a leak, but it's not safe. You use the commutation method to have a loop leakage on the zero line, and you still have to jump, don't bother. Pay attention to the safety of electricity.

The air switch jumps, and the line can generally be judged to be short-circuited.

What are you doing with a live wire and a ground wire? I didn't make it clear.

You can't use a ground wire, you need to use one"Fire"Thread, one"0"Line.

There are many reasons for that, your lights and wiring have a short circuit. The air switch does not have a leak protection, please make it clear.

If the voltage is not up to the mark, or if it exceeds the requirement, it will have an impact on the flashlight.

The question of how the current does not meet the required level, or exceeds the requirement, affect the flashlight.

Ohm's Law: Voltage = Current x Resistance. The resistance of a flashlight is really just the resistance of the bulb, which is the resistance of the filament. It's a physical property. When the bulb is ready, this value is determined. Won't change again.

Therefore, when the voltage is greater than the required value, the current will become larger. The light bulb will be particularly bright. If the current is too high, the filament will be burned.

If the voltage is less than the required value, the current will be less and the bulb will be darker. If the voltage is particularly small. The current will be so small that you can't make the filament shine. The light will not be on, which is usually called the battery is dead.

The frequencies you are talking about are usually only available on radio-controlled toys, but not on flashlights. This refers to the frequency of radio communication.

The flashlight is a resistive load, the flashlight we use in general is a battery, the battery is a constant voltage, there is no effect on the flashlight, if the power supply changes will have an impact on the brightness of the bulb, the voltage is too high, the bulb will burn out.

If the voltage does not reach the rated power supply voltage, then the current will not reach the rated current, and the voltage will exceed the rated voltage, then the current will not reach the rated current.

Since direct current is used, there is no frequency problem.

Now the rechargeable flashlight, charging is used 220V AC, there are certain requirements for voltage, frequency, but the requirements are not high, generally 180V-250V between the power supply can be, because they are all electronic voltage transformer, the frequency range is also very large, the TV is much higher than the flashlight requirements, but there is also a certain range, you see the manual.