How to deal with the stuffy tooth buds of fruit trees, and how to see dead and alive if potted fruit

Generally, after the seedlings are planted, they sometimes do not germinate for a long time, and this phenomenon is called "stuffy buds".

The main reason for the "stuffy buds" of newly planted fruit trees is that the root system of newly planted fruit trees has low absorption function, which cannot quickly provide water and nutrients to the aboveground parts, resulting in young shoots becoming dormant buds. Second, when transplanting, the ground temperature and temperature are not coordinated, and the temperature required for young shoots to break dormancy cannot be reached, coupled with the lack of air humidity, and the phenomenon of "stuffy buds" is formed.

If the potted pomegranate you said is not newly planted, it is not a stuffy bud, which may be caused by the special low temperature in the spring in the north this year, you can observe that many green pomegranates in the city have not yet sprouted. If your pomegranate does not freeze to death, as long as you strengthen fertilizer and water management, as the climate tends to normalize, it will definitely sprout and grow normally, without special treatment.

It may be because of the lack of light, pomegranate is a full-day plant, a light-loving, dry environment, backlight or light intensity is not enough may lead to only long leaves and no flowers, is it the reason why you have more cloudy days there recently? Consider increasing the daylight hours with an artificial auxiliary light source.

In a word, the nutrition can not keep up, the duct is thin, if you don't care, it will lead to weak flowers or falling flowers, falling fruits or cracking fruits, and also limit the speed of fruit expansion and seriously affect the quality and yield of fruits.

Strong pedicle is the key, and the thicker the catheter can increase the amount of nutrients delivered. There are recommendations on the agricultural news network. You go and search.

The light saw effect is not good, and the roots should be cut off together. Herbicide can also be applied to fresh cuts in tree pockets. Or cut the tree tray until the roots are exposed, and then pile up firewood and grass to burn.

Take cherries, for example. Potted cherries germinate more slowly, and some develop a little later due to nutrient and light conditions. Generally, the north of the Yellow River does not bud until early April, and the southern region can bud in early March.

To judge whether it is alive, it mainly depends on whether the branch is alive (you can use a knife to scrape a small hole to see if the inner surface of the branch is white, shiny and fresh), and you can also see whether the bud head is alive. Of course, the main thing is that there is no problem with the root system, and if the root system rots or dies, the branches are useless (some of the roots are rotten, but the branches are still green). In addition, cherry trees and fruits are susceptible to diseases, such as anthracnose, gray mold, soft rot, black spot, etc., planting fruit trees in spring, in this season the temperature and ground temperature open quickly, and the fruit trees begin to germinate 15 days after planting.

If they do not germinate during this period, they are called "budding" in fruit tree cultivation, and these plants tend to germinate only in July and August when the rainy season arrives.

1. Causes of "stuffy buds":

The injured roots are too heavy, the planting is too deep, the watering is too much, the soil is too diligent, the soil moisture is not good, and the buds left in the shaping zone are weak or there are no hidden buds, or even no buds, which can cause "stuffy buds".

Second, the solution to the "stuffy buds" after planting.

1) When fruit tree seedlings are out of the nursery, they need to be excavated from 20 cm outside the trunk circumference to retain the lateral roots that are 20 cm long, and at least 5 or more, and have a large number of fibrous roots.

2) When planting, the depth of the seedling is 3 5 cm deeper than the original seedling soil, and if the grafting interface is 3 5 cm above the ground, it is appropriate to plant the seedling with the grafting interface and the ground.

3) After planting, water once permeable, then build soil and pile up, pile up a mound of 15 cm high and 30 40 cm in diameter around the trunk, until the rainy season and then pick up the mound. After planting, it should not be watered frequently, so as to avoid low temperature, less air, and too much water around the root system, which is not conducive to the growth of the root system of fruit trees.

4) If the soil quality of the garden is sandy and the water retention is poor, it is best to cover the fruit trees with mulch, and the size of the mulch film is the same as that of the tree tray (1 square meter).

5) When drying, be sure to leave 5 or 6 full buds in the shaping belt 20 cm under the cut. If the secondary shoots have been extracted in the shaping zone, especially when there are no hidden buds at the base of the secondary shoots, 2 3 buds must be left for the secondary shoots to be cut.

Prune a branch to see if there is water, and if you are alive, you will die.

1) Heterogeneity: Buds in different parts of the same branch have very different pruning responses after stubbing due to different qualities. Generally speaking, the buds on the spring shoots are larger and fuller than those on the autumn shoots, and the branches are longer after stubbing; In spring and autumn, in addition to the large apical buds, the middle buds are the fullest, and there are many long branches after the short cut.

The buds near the base and top of the branches become deflated in turn, and the middle and short branches are more frequent after stubbing; At the junction of spring and autumn shoots, there is a blind node composed of blind buds with only bud eyes and no bud body, also known as wheel marks, which are difficult to branch after being truncated. Therefore, in tree shaping, the backbone branches are mostly truncated at the full buds in the middle of the spring shoots, and the semi-full buds at the upper or lower middle and the deflated buds at the base are mostly truncated when the fruiting branches are cultivated (Fig. 4 and Fig. 18).

2) Germination power: Germination power is often expressed by germination rate. For varieties with high germination rate, when cultivating fruiting branches, the middle, upper, middle and lower stubs of the branches can be used, but the middle and upper stubs are better.

Varieties with low germination rate should be shortened in the middle and lower parts of spring shoots to avoid the formation of bare legs (Fig. 18). It is also possible to use the method of double pruning after budding in spring to improve the germination rate (Fig. 45).

3) Branching ability: the ability of branches to form long branches after stubbing, which is closely related to the cultivation of backbone branches and fruiting branches. When the germination rate is the same, the varieties with strong branching ability have saplings that bear fruit later, but it is easy to cultivate backbone branches and the canopy is formed quickly.

For varieties with weak branching ability, young trees are easy to flower and bear fruit, but it is difficult to cultivate backbone branches, resulting in a delay in crown formation. Therefore, different pruning techniques and shaping methods should be used for varieties with different branching strength.

4) Precociousness: The buds of fruit trees such as peaches, apricots, and grapes have early maturation, and they can germinate after being formed in the current year, and they can be extracted in turn at all levels such as primary, secondary, and tertiary branches. Pruning can use this characteristic to accelerate the cultivation of backbone branches at all levels of the tree and promote the early formation of the canopy.

5) Latentity: After the buds on the fruit tree are formed, they do not germinate all of them, but germinate a part of them and lurk a part, which becomes the basis for the renewal and rejuvenation of the branches when they are aging and weak. The longer the life span of this latent bud, the more conducive it is to the long-term survival and fruiting of the tree.

In pruning, this characteristic can be used to renew the aging fruiting branch group and the drooping and weakened backbone branches after fruiting, so as to enhance the ability of the tree to resist disease and disaster, and prolong the life span and fruiting life of the tree.

If you search on the Internet, there are a lot of fruit tree buds.

I found a few and didn't know if it was the one you needed.

This phenomenon is called bud back, and there are two possible reasons for the occurrence of bud back budding.

One reason is that the root neck has suffered severe frost damage. We know that the water and inorganic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) absorbed by the roots are transported upward through ducts in the xylem, while the organic nutrients (glucose, etc.) produced by the tree are transported to the roots through sieve tubes in the phloem.

Therefore, even if the root neck suffers frost damage, the water and inorganic nutrients absorbed by the roots can still be transported upwards when the tree sprouts in the spring, so as long as the shoots are not frosted, germination is not affected. However, due to the phloem of the trunk is frozen, the nutrients made by the leaves can not be transported to the roots, and the nutrients stored in the tree body last autumn during this period have been exhausted, and the roots can not get new nutrients, which will cause respiratory failure, stop the absorption and transportation of water and nutrients.

Another reason is: when transplanting fruit trees in spring, the roots are more injured (less capillary heels), the pruning is too light (or not pruned), and the amount of branches left is too much, resulting in the imbalance of root-to-shoot ratio and insufficient water and nutrients. During this period, due to the dry air and strong wind, the transpiration of the leaves needs to consume a lot of water, because the absorption function of the root system has not been restored, the water ** is insufficient, and the leaves and young shoots will gradually dry up and die under the irradiation of the sun.

If it is the first cause of the budding phenomenon, at this stage, the tree can no longer be saved, so it can only be abandoned. If it is the second reason for the bud relapse, there is still room for redemption. That is, to carry out heavy pruning as soon as possible, cut off 4 5 branches, and the remaining branches should also be shortened at the strong buds, maintain a suitable root-shoot ratio, and ensure the balance of water and nutrients**; And water every 7-10 days or so to ensure suitable soil moisture.

In addition, water is sprayed on the tree twice a day to reduce the temperature of the tree and reduce the water consumption by transpiration.

1. Pay attention to topping. Before the end of September, all the new shoots that have not been capped should be removed from the delicate parts that have not yet been lignified, so that the nutrients flowing into the growth point will be stored in the lignified tissues, so as to promote leaf hypertrophy, strong photosynthetic efficiency, high branch maturity and full bud eyes. 2. Pay attention to thinning.

Combined with heavy topping, all kinds of long branches and dense branches that need to be cut off during winter pruning are thinned to reduce the amount of winter pruning and nutrient consumption, and improve the nutrient storage of the tree. 3. Pay attention to deep tree turning. It is advisable to expand the hole from the outer edge of the planting, increase the application of organic fertilizer, and mature the soil.

Generally, a plant can be completed in two or four years with a depth of 60-80 cm to deepen the root distribution layer, improve the air permeability of the soil, help retain water and fertilizer, and enhance the ability of the root system to absorb water and nutrients. 4. Pay attention to autumn fertilizer. The first is foliar fertilization, spraying 2-3 kilograms of superphosphate and 6% plant ash leachate from mid-August to mid-September; The second is soil fertilization, which is best carried out in September, with 100-150 kg of mature fertilizer and some ammonia and nitrogen fertilizer appropriately.

5. Pay attention to flood prevention. For fruit orchards, it is necessary to dredge the ditches in time, drain the stagnant water as soon as possible, and peel off the upper surface of the root neck of fruit trees to accelerate soil aeration and promote the early recovery of the root system. 6. Pay attention to the protection of forests.

Spraying ferrous sulfate Bordeaux liquid once in August has the effect of killing germs. The preparation ratio of ferrous sulfate Bordeaux liquid is: 3 kg of ferrous phosphate, 3 kg of quicklime, 100 kg of water, first use 30 kg of water to dissolve ferrous phosphate to make ferrous sulfate solution, and then extract a small amount of water from the remaining 70 kg of water to dissolve the quicklime, and finally slowly pour the ferrous sulfate solution into lime milk.

Because of the snow this year, many plants can't stand the environment while growing.

In most cases, a weakly growing bud needs to be removed. For fruit tree seedlings planted in the first year, keep about 5-6 buds more than 50 cm above the ground.