How do we maintain deciduous trees in winter?

Updated on Three rural 2024-05-27
9 answers
  1. Anonymous users2024-02-11

    ForDeciduous treesBetter growthto achieve the desired greening effectshould be adhered to"Three points of species, seven points of nourishment"principles。Although deciduous trees enter a dormant state in winter, winter maintenance and management such as watering, pruning, cold protection, and damage prevention are still very important.

    Irrigation function: Timely seal frozen water on deciduous trees before soil freezing. When the soil around deciduous trees is short of water in winter, it is prone to frost damageBefore the soil freezes, it is necessary to fill the frozen water in time。Furthermore, the specific heat of the water.

    Larger, it can absorb more heat during the day, increase the ground temperature, and prevent the early occurrence of frost damage.

  2. Anonymous users2024-02-10

    In winter, the maintenance master of Fangxin grass has these maintenance points:

    1. Carry out winter plastic pruning, the pruning of young trees is mainly shaping, and the purpose of controlling the growth of side branches and promoting the growth of main branches is to remove diseased and insect branches, long branches, overly dense branches, dead branches and vine parasitic plants for the purpose of controlling the growth of side branches and promoting the growth of main branches, so as to maintain the beautiful shape of the tree;

    2. Apply winter fertilizer in an open ring ditch to ensure the growth of the next year;

    3. Do a good job of cold protection, and wrap grass ropes above the base of the trunk of newly planted cold-tolerant trees to keep out the cold;

    4. Control pests and diseases, eliminate overwintering insect packs, cocoons and larvae;

    5. Brushing white: apply lime liquid (slurry) to the base of the trunk and add salt to whiten the well-growing trunk at a meter above the base of the trunk, so that the coating is uniform and the upper edge is smooth.

  3. Anonymous users2024-02-09

    Winter is windy and cold, and erecting wind barriers is an effective measure to prevent frost damage to trees. Wind barriers can block cold winds, reduce wind speed, and reduce frost damage to trees. The materials used in wind barriers generally include straw curtains, non-woven fabrics, color striped fabrics, plastic sheets, etc.

    Wind barriers are generally required to be built around trees on three sides, and can also be built on four sides to improve cold resistance, and the brackets built are mainly wooden frames.

  4. Anonymous users2024-02-08

    Every year, trees use the method of "sleeping" to survive the harsh winter. In autumn, the daytime temperature is high, the light is strong, and the trees are photosynthesized vigorously and can produce sufficient nutrients, while at night the temperature is low, the trees grow slowly, and there is little knowledge before the nutrients are consumed, so that the trees can accumulate a lot of nutrients. As soon as winter arrives, trees turn their accumulated nutrients into sugar or fat.

    Sugar and fat are not only nutrients but also cold-proofing substances that protect trees from frost. In this way, the tree can "sleep" while "eating" the nutrients. So, winter soon passed.

  5. Anonymous users2024-02-07

    1. Digging pits: planting holes must be excavated with the point as the center of the circle, with the radius of the tree hole as the radius to release the circle, first dig out the outer edge of the circle, and then dig vertically, the diameter of the upper mouth and the bottom should be equal, and it is not allowed to dig into the pot bottom pit or elliptical pit, and the specific specifications should meet the requirements in the table of "deciduous tree planting hole specifications".

    2, fertilization: fertilization standards according to the deciduous tree planting hole specifications and fertilizer scale implementation, fertilization to evenly spread fertilizer at the bottom of the pit, can not be concentrated on one side of the planting hole or in the middle. After applying the basal fertilizer, cover it with 5-10cm of planting soil and then plant the seedlings to avoid direct contact between the newly planted seedlings and the broken root system.

    3. Planting: When planting deciduous trees, the seedlings should be gently put into the pit (must be handled gently), and the deciduous trees with soil balls should be cut with the grass rope on the soil ball, and the grass rope and grass bag should be removed to ensure the integrity of the soil ball. After the seedlings are put right, then bury the soil, bury the soil to the original planting line to the bottom of the 1 3 places to be stepped on, step on the root or soil ball of the seedling at the time of stepping on the time, and then backfill the soil to 2 3 places after stepping on the solid, and then backfill to 5-10cm above the original planting line, and then step on the solid.

    4. Repair of the water circle: If it is an anti-water circle, the water circle of all seedlings should be extended outside the tree pit of the seedlings to be built, and the water circle should be patted with a shovel when building, and the top of the water circle should be flattened. The outer weir is trapezoidal.

    The building height is 20-30cm. If it is a lower anti-water circle, it is required that the outer edge of the water slag circle be built into a slope of 45° or 60° with a depth of 20-30cm.

    5. Set up a bracket: After planting a deciduous tree with a crown, a bracket should be erected immediately, and a straw rope or a straw bag should be wrapped around the bark of the place where the bracket is in contact with the tree before erection, and the length of the straw rope should be 15-25cm to be wrapped in at least two layers, and the straw bag should be wrapped in at least three layers. The height of the support should be determined according to the specifications of the seedlings.

    The bracket should be at least two and one crutch, and the crutch position should be opposite to the usual local wind direction. Before lashing, bury the bottom of the bracket 20-30cm into the ground and step on it. When lashing, it is necessary to use 10 gauge, 12 gauge iron wire or annealing wire to tie it firmly at one time.

    6, pruning: with crown deciduous trees planted first to carry out thinning, the principle of thinning is to first cut off the branches and dead branches with pests and diseases, then prune cross branches and parallel branches, and finally prune other branches, the first disease and insect branches and dead branches should be cut off, other branches should be pruned after the 3-5cm pile. Seedlings without crowns should be cut at the same height according to the design requirements.

    After pruning, paint the wound after the cut. Pruning trees with large canopies should retain 1 3 branches, and 1 2-2 3 branches should be retained for smaller crowns. After pruning, keep 3-5 thicker branches on the canopy, and the spacing between the branches should be even, reflecting the plump shape.

  6. Anonymous users2024-02-06

    The purchase of time-varying leaf trees must be potted for a considerable period of time, otherwise it is difficult to overwinter in the northern region after long-distance transportation and incomplete root systems; Secondly, do not buy potted flowers maintained in a high-temperature greenhouse, otherwise the temperature and humidity in the home room and the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse are too different, and the plants are difficult to adapt.

    In the maintenance, the room temperature should be maintained above 10 in 1 and 2 months, and the potting soil should be dry rather than wet, and too much watering is easy to cause fallen leaves and rotten roots; Fluorescent lamps can be used indoors to give 1 2 hours of supplementary light at night, which can make the color of the leaves more vivid; Proper ventilation can be given at noon when the temperature is high, so that it can maintain its beautiful charm even in winter.

  7. Anonymous users2024-02-05

    Winter maintenance skills for millennium wood, pay attention to these points, and overwinter safely with lush leaves.

  8. Anonymous users2024-02-04

    How to maintain it? Winter is mainly based on cold protection:

    What are the commonly used cold and freeze protection measures?

    1) Frozen water filling: Frozen water for tree irrigation can effectively replenish tree water, reduce the harm caused by winter drought and reduce the possibility of winter stripping; Another is to increase the heat capacity of the soil, increase the ground temperature, and protect the root system from frost damage. The time of filling frozen water is the period of night freezing and diurnalization, and the water is filled through at one time.

    2) Whitening cold: Apply whitening agent to the trunk of the tree with a happy forest coat to form a protective layer. The white whitening agent can refract light, reduce the temperature difference between day and night, and avoid frost damage.

    3) Drug antifreeze: The antifreeze agent can be sprayed 3-5 times 1-month before the autumn defoliation of broad-leaved tree species, so as to improve the accumulation of dry matter of branches and improve the frost resistance of seedlings.

    4) Ground cover cold-proof materials: Especially for newly transplanted trees, the tree holes can be covered with straw, dried up, mulch, etc., to increase the ground temperature.

    5) Wrapping cold-proof materials: such as wrapping tree protection belts, straw, straw ropes, mulch films, etc. on the trunk.

    6) Buckle the pot and buckle the frame: For some shorter flowers and shrubs, you can buckle the pot and buckle the frame.

    7) Soil cultivation: After watering and sealing frozen water, the soil can be cultivated at the root about 30 cm high.

    8) Arch shed facilities for cold protection: mainly for small seedlings and shrubs, can be protected by non-woven fabrics.

    If this is not the case, you can ask questions.

  9. Anonymous users2024-02-03

    Ginkgo biloba is a deciduous tree, and after late autumn each year, the leaves of the spine eggplant begin to turn yellow and gradually lose their leaves, and then the plant goes into dormancy. The reason for the loss of leaves of ginkgo biloba is not only due to the influence of low temperature, but also the result of its own physiological laws. Years of experiments have shown that it is feasible to artificially delay the fall of ginkgo biloba.

    At present, the most effective method is to spray leaf-preserving herbs before the arrival of the winter cold snap in autumn cherry potatoes, and cover them with plastic film to warm and moisturize to maintain the continuous growth of ginkgo biloba.

    Another effective way to prevent defoliation in winter is the secondary hair tip technique, which is an artificial treatment that causes ginkgo biloba to fall leaves early and germinate new branches for the second time in the same year. Generally, in the second Nalu growing season (October) of Ginkgo biloba, the leaves are treated with pesticides or manually pruned, and the long branches are truncated to promote the germination and growth of side buds. The secondary tip technology must also be accompanied by fertilization and insulation measures to achieve the desired results.

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