D60 with 50 1 8 head problem

It is still very troublesome for the fuselage to not have a motor, and many heads cannot be used, so it is recommended to take the fuselage out and replace it with a fuselage above D90.

50 This head is still very worthy of its **, fixed focus without dog head, and the aperture is not bad for shallow depth of field, but the effect of the full open aperture is still almost there, and it is generally sharper when received.

It is recommended that you sell the D60 and replace it with the D80, and the manual focus is not too difficult, and you can use it yourself to complete the capture with a little familiarity, etc.

But you will also have a lot of troubles after using D60.

Nikon is using ultrasonic motors more and more, but it's not that he uses ultrasonic motors, we have to use them. And there are still 2 3 Nikon lenses that don't have ultrasonic motors, and Nikon hasn't been discontinued. It's going to be a long time before Nikon completely replaces them.

Let's just say that there is now an ultrasonic motor version of the lens 35 is an alternative He is the DX head to sell it so cheaply, otherwise the 35 2D without a motor would have to be more than 2000 Why?

There is little difference between the 50 motorized version and the motorless version, but the price difference has reached more than 1000 yuan, and the price difference between the 105 microscope with a motor and the non-motor version has reached 2000 yuan, and the price difference between any lens is comparable to the gap between the fuselage Why save this money and increase sadness in the future?

Talking about the problem of 50 and 35, the reason why the 50 header is called the header is not just the meaning of the angle of view of 50mm. Just by looking at the numbers marked on the lens, you have fallen into the trap of Nikon.

50 Prime Lens As a real standard lens, his lies in the mature manufacturing strength of each manufacturer for the 50mm focal length, the so-called header no matter the weak, the experience and optical quality accumulated over the years are not just a 35 can be compared.

It is precisely because of this that 50 has stood the test of time and has become an enduring classic, and the price has not fallen for 10 years. 35 ?Wait and see.

Whether the lens is good or not is not something that can be determined by just looking at the name Nikon 50 is Carl Zeiss 50 is also not it?

Not to mention a lens like the Volenda 50mm f/2, do you think the Nikon 50 can compare?

For another example, the Nikon 50mm is only about 2700 now, but the 58mm is more than 25000, and the difference is 10 times.

Isn't the 50mm header an advantage over the 58mm that couldn't even do the 50mm image field back then? Just ask Nikon.

Now there are many things that manufacturers won't tell you about automatic heads.

Auto Lens Component Multi Lenses are no longer designed for optimal imaging at all.

Why doesn't the Nikon 50 have an automatic version? He couldn't have it both ways, and he couldn't fit the automatic parts in the mirror body at the aperture anymore.

The most important thing to say is that you are buying a camera, not those numbers on the parameters.

3518g is about 1350 with a ticket now.

If you want to capture needs such as children (the target moves too fast), the 60G with a motor on the D3518 is still worth it.

My machine is the same as yours, before entering 3518g, it was also 5018d, and 5018d is too painful to shoot children's autofocus, and it is almost impossible to capture. So out of 5018d, into 2518g.

In addition, the 3518g has a wider viewing angle, which is more suitable for indoor and environmental portraits, such as a visit. The imaging of the two is about the same, the focus is sharp, and the focus is average (you get what you pay for, don't compare it with the bull's head).

35 Well!

The 50 is AF, it can't autofocus, it can only focus manually, and the AFS head has improved focusing

It's 600 dollars, it's actually worth it.

The 35 and 50 lenses are two different lenses (not much different), if you can practice it manually, you can buy the former, and vice versa. I don't think there's anything wrong with manual focusing, and sometimes I can shoot something creative**.

I used 50 and it was okay. When the aperture is open to f4, it is very sharp.

Yes, the rangefinder can prompt focusing, and the focusing indicator light can also indicate focusing.

Manual focus may be a bit tiring.

Wouldn't it be better to buy a newly launched AFS35, multiplied by the multiplier to convert to 52mm, which is the standard header on the D60. And it's also very cheap, you can get it for about 1500, which is much more affordable than 50.

The 50 F doesn't support autofocus on the D60, so if you have enough money, take a look at the 50 F!

The 50 f with motor and image stabilization is very good! It's just that the price is higher.

It's not very useful, because there is a coefficient that needs to be converted for a full set of machines to be useful.

The in-flight rangefinder with the in-focus prompt still works.

It's good to invest a little in this head, although it's manual, but there is a focus prompt, and it's more recommended if the economy allows.

afs-50/

This function is not supported, and the aperture size can only be adjusted by using the body2. This is a mistake in your focus When shooting, focus first, and after focusing, don't move the position, and directly use the lens to compose the shot, so as to ensure that the camera and the focus object are on the same plane

3。You said that Nikon's machines have this function, you haven't noticed, change the focus method to AF-s in the camera, there is a key on the right side of the back of the camera, press and hold to lock the focus point, but you have to hold it, and it will be gone when you release it You have to make sure that when you press the shutter and focus in the same place

4。This thing is recommended not to be used, the merchant is right, it affects the quality of the film too much

1.50mm f is a lens for the film era, used for a digital body with adjustable aperture for the body, which is a must.

Only after locking the minimum aperture can the aperture size be adjusted by the body wheel, otherwise it cannot be used.

2.Because the D60 does not have a focus motor, focusing needs to be manual, so the focus will inevitably occur after framing.

Small changes, so it is recommended to adjust the focus appropriately after composition, do not look at the focus mark in the viewfinder, and rely on.

Your own eyes go to focus. At the same time, it is recommended to set AE AL to **locked.

3.There is a focus method called continuous servo focusing-AF-C, I don't know if there is one on the D60, take a look.

The manual knows that if there is, you can focus continuously on the moving subject, of course.

Your lens has autofocus, which is an AF-S lens.

4.I haven't used a close-up lens, so I recommend that you get a 70-300mm VR, and it will definitely not disappoint you.

LS two note,5018 does not have a lens motor,D60There is no fuselage motor,No need to compare at all,5018 can not be used on D60 can not autofocus。

Remember after LZ, if you want autofocus, remember to buy a lens with AFS on the front, AF can't autofocus, only autometering, ATUO, AI, AIS, and focus metering can't auto.

It's not good, because the former is not full-frame, the latter optical design is too old, or buy **AF-S, this lens was originally designed, but the lens transparency was not carried, it became, full-frame lens, and supports autofocus, good value preservation imaging.

Suggestion 35 bar More uses, greater opportunities for use, in addition to the second-hand AF-S ultrasonic wave motor, you can get one back in good condition and it is not expensive.

35。Now it's a DX must-have.

If it's 50, it's on. (Full width).

Pros: cheap, very cheap, and a large aperture.

Cons: Reference**, there are almost no drawbacks. If you think so, think about how much you're paying. Manual focus is a matter of opinion.

The main reason is that the sharpness is not high, the bokeh is more unpleasant, and the dispersion is obvious. But none of this is a problem in the face of **.

One more thing, I haven't used it.

This head does not autofocus on the D60 and is not recommended, only with AF-S series lenses.

You can choose AF-S 35 1200-1400 yuan, which is cost-effective.

Pros, ** cheap, large aperture, very good quality.

The downside is that it doesn't autofocus on a machine like the D60 that doesn't have a motor.

If you're focusing on portraits, the 50 isn't a great choice. Of course, 50 is the cheapest option.

The biggest problem with the 50 head is that the bokeh is too hard, and the dilinear is obvious. Against the backdrop of bright spots such as the grass after rain, there will be patches of fish scale-like bokeh, which is very uncomfortable to look at. 50 is better.

Of course, 85 is a better choice, as the longer the focal length, the better the bokeh trend and bokeh.

However, you have to be mentally prepared to use these heads, and they all have to be focused manually, which is more awkward to use.

Twist the focus ring by hand until the scene you want to capture is clear.

If you are a cow, you can add an automatic rangefinder and then link it with a gear and a 50 lens focus ring.

There's no way around it, either change the camera, change the lens, or just focus manually.

Change the split image focusing screen, and play it with your hands, which has a unique flavor.

Manual...

Nikon's latest header with a motor, you can consider that.

1 All if you use the auto file is like this, if not, go into the menu and turn off the iso automatically.

Regardless of the mode used, it is recommended to read the manual carefully.

What file did you shoot with?