Does the wire coming down from the meter box press the air switch or press the circuit breaker?

Hello, I'm here to give you an answer to your question.

Actually, you're talking about air switches here.

and circuit breakers, which are actually the same thing, they have a colloquial name, called switches, however, their official name is called circuit breakers.

Generally speaking, in the lower part of the meter box, there is a special position for the switch, where a circuit breaker is usually installed.

In addition, in order to facilitate maintenance and maintenance, a circuit breaker is usually installed in the distribution box at home.

An air switch, also known as an air circuit breaker, is a type of circuit breaker. （According to the installation environment and the size of the power consumption to choose their own circuit breaker, the home use of the air switch on the line, commercial, industrial recommendations usually use molded case circuit breaker independent distribution box easy to distinguish the operation.

Air switches and circuit breakers are functionally close and can be equated with one thing.

We often say that the air switch has over-temperature protection, over-current protection, and short-circuit protection. Miniature "circuit breakers" do the same thing.

In terms of installation, the miniature circuit breaker is mainly installed in the form of guide rails, which is easy to disassemble and assemble and small in size. Therefore, small circuit breakers are mainly used for civil use. And it is a mix of industrial grade and civilian grade.

Don't get too tangled, just use a circuit breaker. There are many capacity specifications to choose from, ** which is half cheaper than air switches.

You don't have to press anything, you have everything in the meter box.

A section of wire between the meter and the air switch is the inlet line, which is generally a 10-square-meter multi-strand aluminum wire, which is a transmission line with a thicker wire diameter and can provide a larger current.

The main line of the circuit: the line that comes out of the electric air switch and the leakage protector is the main line of household electricity, and the line that transmits electricity to each room is the main line. It transmits electricity to various rooms and electrical equipment, so its wire diameter is relatively large, most of them are copper wires, copper wires are more than 4 square meters, and it is the first national standard line, because it is the main line of household power transmission, carrying a large current, to ensure the normal operation of the electrical appliances, so the wire diameter should be a little thicker, and it should be of high quality and good wire.

From the main line to each room to connect the light bulb is a branch line, their current is small power is not very large, so the wire diameter is relatively small, they provide a small current, can use a square copper wire, although the lead wire connected to the socket is a branch wire, but the current is larger, to use 4 square copper wire, the line connected to the air conditioner can also use 4 square wire.

The branch line does not necessarily have to use a small wire diameter, it is selected according to the size of the electricity consumption, the power consumption is large, the wire diameter and the main line diameter are the same, otherwise it is small. Of course, the wire diameter of the air conditioner should be the same as the main line diameter, and 4 square copper wires should be used.

This is called the main switch is also the main line (for this suite), the main switch and the main line are larger than the branches, for example, the water pipes of a building are used for 4 points, and there is no pressure or no water when many people use water.

The meter comes out of the live wire and the zero line, and the larger one is to prevent the use of large electrical appliances, and the air is open and small heat, and the burn is burned out and turned off early.

That's basically it.

The load current of all electrical appliances in the home is ultimately through this section of the line, so this section of the current is the largest, in order to reduce the line loss and increase the terminal voltage, so the wire diameter should be appropriately increased.

The current of each branch below is smaller, and a wire with a thinner wire diameter can be selected.

In fact, the principle is the same as the tap water pipe, from large to small, the power of the electrical appliances to use a large line, such as the air conditioner generally with four flat, or separately pulled.

Hello: 1, after [Direct-reading energy meterThe wires of the watt-hour meter areMain line, the main line provides electrical current for all loads.

2. After [Magnification meterThe wire of the current transformer is the wire of the current transformer, not the main line.

3. The main line of [Current] Maximum, so relativelyCoarseest

Meter column input column output, of course, the column is the live wire column is the zero line, the outgoing line is connected to the empty input above, and the air is connected to the bottom of the meter, otherwise the meter cannot be protected. It is best to install leakage protection of the air open, if a line fails, the first is the fault circuit corresponding to the air open tripping, so that it is convenient to find the fault circuit, and at the same time will not lose power at home. It should be noted that ordinary air switches only have overload and short-circuit protection, and generally do not have leakage protection, so for the safety of household electricity, it is recommended to install at least an air opening with leakage protection function in the socket circuit.

In and out. That is, the live wire enters from terminal 1 and exits terminal 2, the neutral wire enters from terminal 3 and exits terminal 4.

I don't understand what you mean by asking: Meter 1 3 input 2 4 output Of course, 1 2 is the live wire 3 4 is the neutral line The outgoing line is connected to the empty input above The empty open should be connected to the bottom of the meter, otherwise the meter will not be protected.

Method steps.

Usually, air switches are composed of many sub-switches, because there is no detailed circuit drawing, how to distinguish which switch pipe which circuit, need to be checked one by one. Press the switch cover first, and the cover will pop out.

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Generally, there will be a switch of different colors on the left (toggle the button up for the switch to close and energize, on the contrary, face down for the switch to separate and power off), this is the main switch of this group of air switches, after closing, the circuit of each branch will be cut off from the power supply (double insurance).

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There is also a master switch on the left as a group of three, which is usually the live wire control switch of the entrance bus.

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If you press this little yellow button, you can also turn off all circuits (the main switch automatically trips off).

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First, turn on all the lights to be tested.

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Then, turn off each sub-switch on the air switch one by one so that you can determine whether the switch is controlling which electrical appliance or light, and then attach a small label to it.

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Plugging an appliance or lamp into an electrical outlet above the baseboard (turning on the power switch to keep it energized) to determine which air switch controls (and marks) the line (usually several outlets in a line) is suitable for operation without a multimeter.

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Usually, as long as there are many air switches, the electrical appliances with large power consumption (such as high-power air conditioners) will be controlled by a single switch.

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Finally, after the marking, turn it back on for verification, if the house is not large, there may be a free switch.

With such a diagram, it is possible to see at a glance if there is a problem with the circuit (if there is a problem, the corresponding air switch will automatically jump off).

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The more common fault line is the gas stove with electronic ignition, because in the case of cooking, vegetables, soup, etc., the soup overflows, resulting in moisture at the electronic lighter switch, causing a short circuit in the circuit. At this point, you may want to use a rag to dry the water first, and then use a hair dryer to dry the water.

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There are many specifications of air switches, the above two types of sub-switches are usually flat and narrow, mostly single-wire control (live wire), and there are two-wire control specifications of air switches, usually one live wire (red), one neutral wire (blue).

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Note: If one of the switches in the air switch is broken, the switch can be replaced separately (there are card slots at the bottom of the switch box and the bottom of the switch that can fit).

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The air switch of the meter box is generally installed on the side of the meter access line and outgoing wire, and it is necessary to open the plastic cover of the meter box to see it.

Some air switches have a small wire connected to the meter because the thin wire is linked with the meter internally, when the balance in the meter is exhausted, the output signal controls the main switch to drop, and then close the switch.

A switch that automatically disconnects whenever the current in the circuit exceeds the rated current. The air switch is a very important electrical appliance in the low-voltage distribution network and the power drive system, which integrates control and a variety of protection functions. In addition to completing the contact and breaking circuits, it can also protect the circuit or electrical equipment from short circuits, serious overloads and undervoltages, and can also be used to start the motor infrequently.

The switch you use is a loss of voltage trip switch, that is, it is used with the electric card meter, if the remaining power in the meter is zero, the line has no voltage output, the switch coil loses voltage, and the closing cannot be closed. When the user buys electricity, the line is plugged into the meter, the voltage passes, the coil is sucked in, and the closing is successful! Note:

The line is useless.

The thin wire is linked to the inside of the meter, and when the balance in the meter is exhausted, the output signal controls the main switch to drop, and then closes and closes. The user can only close the electricity consumption when he purchases the electricity input meter again. In addition, if the thin wire is damaged, the meter will show a fault** and automatically send an alarm signal.

That thin wire is the internal disconnect signal line of the meter. The principle is that the air opening is an under-voltage trip type, and it works with the plug-in card energy meter. When the balance in the meter is exhausted, the line has no closing voltage output to the undervoltage tripper, so it cannot be closed again.

The user can only close the power supply by purchasing the electricity input into the meter again, and the internal control output of the meter can supply power to the empty tripper coil through the line. If the wire is removed, the meter will show the fault** and automatically send out an alarm signal.

The household air opening is only used to protect the short-circuit fault of the load received by the electricity user, so the air opening is generally connected after the electricity meter. When the meter is short-circuited and faulty, the power supply is disconnected by the upper level of empty switching.

The air switch should be connected to the front of the energy meter.

Summary. If you move the wire inside the switch, the live wire on the other end of your bulb needs to be changed to the zero line again, otherwise it won't light up.

The previous light switch and lamp wire connection.

If you move the wire inside the switch, the live wire on the other end of your bulb needs to be changed to the zero line again, otherwise it won't light up.

Is it a new route?

1. First, pass the zero line directly over the lamp stupid head, and then place the line on the center point of the switch. 2. Connect the two sides of the light dissipation switch with other curves. 3. When the line is outgoing, one is connected to the center point of 220V, and the other is connected to the switch.

4. Finally, check whether the switch can work normally after the belt is powered on.

I want to use the previous switch, but I don't know how to connect it from the empty to the zero line of the light.

The empty zero line is open to the lamp head, but the previous light is out to L1

This Sen Wang generally said, very easy to connect, the light switch he is two wires, and the switch is also two contacts, most of the red line of this first boy is the live line, and the other line is the zero line.

Is it a new light line?

The empty opening of the electric energy meter is generally connected to its outlet. According to the face of the empty opening, the single-phase is wired according to the law of left zero and right fire, and the three-phase is arranged from left to right according to the yellow-green-red wide-wide order (the three-phase four-wire closed-source zero line is on the far right).