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26 is the exponent, and the formula for calculating it is ISO100 exponent = distance * aperture value.
If you want to take into account the background of the night portrait, you need to use slow sync.
There is a very simple rule in flash photography: the aperture value affects the brightness of the subject, and the shutter value affects the background (ambient) light.
If you want the background to light up as well, use a slower shutter speed.
Direct flashing will leave a large shadow, so it is recommended that you use the jump flash, i.e. point the lamphead at the back or side wall, or ceiling. When the light is reflected, it becomes even and there are no heavy shadows.
The bigger the index, the better, buy as big as possible.
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26 is the flash index, which can theoretically play a normal role in filling light within 26 meters with an aperture of 1. The aperture value is last, and if you reduce the aperture by 3 stops, then 26 meters becomes more than 8 meters, so even if you use f10, the flash index is sufficient. If you want to photograph people and clothes, you should shoot at a distance of 5 meters or more, and a 20-index flash is a bit of a stretch, but you can compensate for it by increasing the ISO.
But the imaging may not be as delicate as the low ISO, and it depends on your choice.
The softbox does not extend the flash range, it cannot be used alone. The softbox is installed on the studio light, which emits a softer light, and can eliminate the light spots and shadows on the ** when shooting.
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The flash you bought should be manual, right?
When using a manual flash, you should first look at the synchronized shutter speed of your body flash, use M for the manual flash, set the shutter speed below the sync speed, set the ISO to 100, and then check the table behind the flash, and choose the aperture size according to the distance from the subject to the lens.
The flash index is one of the important parameters to measure the performance and grade of the flash
The flash index is related to how the aperture is used, and is one of the indices that reflect the power of the flash.
The flash index serves two purposes:
One is for identifying the size of the flash power, the larger the value of GN, the greater the power, and the second is when the manual flash is used to shoot, for the calculation of the aperture size of the flash **, the basic formula is the flash index Subject distance = aperture coefficient.
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On Yongnuo's 465, support ETTL, it is more than 300, much better than your Yinyan.
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1. In this case, the built-in flash is sufficient, and the external one is easy to overexprove.
2. When setting manually, the aperture should be as wide as possible, the shutter should be slower, try to use a tripod, and the ISO can also be higher, but not too high, when it is dry. Give it a try.
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The flash adds or subtracts the light and raises it at an angle. Ever seen a journalist's flashing lights? That's it.
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Turn on the flash and set it to slow sync.
Slow sync is a flash and then the shutter is slightly delayed and then closed, so that the foreground is illuminated by the flash and the background is its own lighting effect.
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Flash slow shutter at the same part, with a tripod!
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Because the compact digital alarm code camera is the inter-lens shutter, and the SLR is the focal plane shutter. The shutter between the lenses is generally composed of several blades, and when the blades are opened at the same time, no matter which shutter is bent on, the film is uniform. The focal plane shutter is swept over the film by forming a gap in the curtain (the cloth curtain shutter is generally swept horizontally, and the rigid film shutter is generally swept vertically), that is to say, the different parts of the glue are not at the same time.
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In terms of shutter speed, a digital camera is similar to an offset roll. The key carries pure.
The small Yinqing camera has a shutter between the lenses, and the DSLR has a focal plane shutter.
Find a film camera and open it, and you'll be clear.
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Don't talk nonsense, small digital cameras don't have a shutter at all, ** time is controlled by the CCD power-on time, and the SLR has a Zen slippery shutter mechanism, so it is limited to a certain extent.
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If it's not a full pair, 24-105 is not recommended.,Actually, this head is also very bad.,24-70 can also pass Although this head can be said to be the strongest imaging in the list of these heads.,The main thing is that there is no wide angle.,It's really uncomfortable for non-full machines to have no wide angle.,So it's better to choose option 2.,But the focal length of 40-70 is missing.,It's recommended to match a 50 It's very cheap.,And the imaging is more powerful.,After all, it's so cheap and the focal length is practical.。。 Usually when the hang-up head is also lightweight.