Strange problems with house circuits??? Urgently, an electrician or a master will enter

Hello:1 Congratulations, according to your conditions, the line first basically ruled out the faults of short circuit, open circuit, installation error, leakage, etc.

2. It is not difficult to understand the respective functions of leakage protection switch and fuse (fuse).

3. The core function of the leakage protection switch is leakage protection, such as when the human body is electrocuted, when the zero sequence current transformer, one of the three major components of the switch, detects the zero sequence current signal (30 mA), it will automatically jump off to protect the safety, it can also do load protection, but never do short circuit protection; The fuse (fuse) is mainly used for short-circuit protection and overload protection (instantaneous fuse during short circuit, and fuse for a certain time according to the general delay of overload according to the amount of overload).

4 and then according to your "turn off some electrical appliances can be used" this condition, completely eliminate short circuit, open circuit, leakage and other aspects of the fault, the problem is narrowed to overload, because the leakage protection switch and the fuse (fuse) are both overloaded, so far or look at the fuse (fuse), its choice is equal to or slightly greater than the total current of all loads (generally three-phase loads such as three-phase AC asynchronous motors per kilowatt about 2 amps of current, single-phase loads such as lighting of about 4 5 amps per kilowatt of current), Calculate how many amps your total load is, and then if the fuse (fuse) is selected correctly, compare it with the leakage protection switch, or only need to increase the leakage protection switch to solve the problem, according to this procedure you can completely solve the problem!

The rated current of your electric shock protector is too small, and at the same time, an electric shock protector should not be connected to too many electrical appliances, the general electric shock protector is 16A or 32A, and the current of a refrigerator is 1A, the air conditioner is 3A, and other household appliances generally do not exceed, so you have to consider how many electrical appliances are connected to an electric shock protector.

You can install several more shock protectors in your home. At the same time, for the sake of safety, try not to exceed the rated current of 5 6, 16A electric shock protector is better not to exceed.

Your home's electrical circuits should be fine.

My physics is good, trust me.

The upstairs are all right, it is estimated that the electric shock protector is small, but it is also possible that the electric shock protector has quality problems, and sometimes it may be that the upper and lower ends of the electric shock protector are not firmly wired, and the poor contact causes high temperature tripping. Feel whether the wire is very hot, the wire is not connected firmly or the wire is too thin will trip at a high temperature. Also pay attention to whether it is a certain electrical appliance that trips after a period of time!

It is recommended to touch the shell of the electric shock protector with your hands when tripping, whether it is very hot, if it is hot, it is overloaded or the upper and lower ends of the wiring are loose, if it is not hot, it is a leakage tripping gate! If you want to change the electric shock protector, it is recommended to buy a *** point, recommended: CHINT.

Delixi. These well-known brands of the Yangtze River are only twenty or thirty yuan! Generally, the lighting is calculated by one kilowatt, and then buy a switch after calculating the electricity load at home!

The circuit breaker relies on the electromagnetic coil, which is more sensitive to overload.

Fuse blowing is by resistive heating blowing, if the heat dissipation is good it is not sensitive to overload, it may take a long time to fuse, he mainly plays short circuit protection, it is recommended that you change to a circuit breaker with a higher rated current.

A 10A leakage protector can only carry a resistive load of 2kw, it is recommended that you replace it with a 25A leakage protector.

There is no problem with the wiring of your home, the main thing is that the leakage protector is smaller, and you can change it to a larger leakage protector! My family used to have such a problem! Just replace it!

First of all, let's start with the faults that will occur in the circuit. In the general building, the distribution of the circuit is that there are two circuits in the lamp position, "one way in the kitchen, one way in the bathroom". Socket 3 Road, "Yang Wo Keting Road, Bathroom and Kitchen Road."

Yin bedroom all the way". Air-conditioned two-way, "guest court and yang bedroom all the way, yin bedroom all the way". Generally speaking, building circuits are basically like this, and these are mainly to give you a general understanding of residential circuits.

Residential circuit fault quick investigation experience.

Residential circuit fault quick investigation experience.

The first case is that the gate knife does not close or trips, and the second case has no power. Let's analyze the first situation first, if you can't close the gate, feel that the gate knife is not strong when closing, or close for a while before tripping, if you close for a while before tripping, first see if it is a problem with the gate knife, pull the main gate down, and then pull it up and down several times with your hand, and feel that it is easy to pull down when the gate knife is closed. Some of them jump when they touch it, which means that there is a problem with the gate knife, and it is enough to change the gate knife.

If the blade is fine, it's a line problem. The first thing to distinguish between the lamp position is the socket "The lamp position is generally a square copper wire, and the socket is 4 square". Then see which socket it is, and after finding out, disconnect it from the middle of the socket line and check it step by step.

For example, there are six sockets on this route, disconnected from three, "If you don't trip after a while, it means that there is a problem with the socket behind this road, and if it trips after a while, it means that there is a problem in front, so check step by step.

If the brake cannot be closed, use the multimeter resistance level to measure. "Extract all the electrical equipment on this road" multimeter can be opened, indicating that the line is short-circuited. Follow the above method until the multimeter can't get through.

If the multimeter is not opened from the beginning, the gate knife has tripped. That means there is a leakage. But the leakage is not very large, the gate knife is 20A, and it can jump after a while, indicating that the leakage current is also between 20A.

Also check step by step as above. If there is a resistance shake meter, it is better to check.

Residential circuit fault quick investigation experience.

The second type is out of power. First of all, see which road is out of power, or the whole family is out of power. If the whole family is out of power, see if the wire of the main gate knife is loose, or the gate knife is not conductive.

It will be clear with the voltage level of the multimeter. If there is no power in the shunt, you should first see if there is a problem with the gate knife to avoid mischecking the multi-range procedures.

If there is electricity, it means that it is a problem with the wiring. Distinguish which road is out of power, list all the lights or sockets that are out of power one by one, and where there is no electricity, "For example, the socket in the Yang Bedroom and the guest house is the first to have electricity, and the rest are all out of power, fold the one with electricity to see if it is open."

If there is no electricity, look at the next outlet near this one. To see if it's a lack of contact or something else, the most important thing is to have the right analytical skills. Distinguish the direction of the route. If the line is not clear, don't blindly change it, you must figure it out again.

1.Open.

as the filament is broken; Open circuit of lamp holder, switch, and wire box; Fuse blowing or inlet line opening, etc.

An open circuit will cause the electrical appliance to fail to work normally without current passing through.

2.Short circuit.

For example, the live wire and the neutral wire of the two binding posts connected to the lamp holder collide; The two wires in the socket or plug collide;

The live wire and the neutral wire are directly connected and cause a short circuit. The short circuit will blow the fuse and cut off the power of the entire lighting circuit, and in serious cases, it will burn the line and cause a disaster.

3.Overload.

The total power of the appliances in the circuit is too large or the power of the individual appliances is too large.

The resulting phenomena and consequences are like short circuits.

4.Poor circuit contact.

For example, the lamp holder, switch, and hanging box are not in good contact; Poor fuse contact; Poor contact at the line joint, etc.

This will make the lights flicker on and off, and the electrical appliances will not work continuously and normally.

5.The circuit itself is incorrectly connected and causes a malfunction.

For example, the two binding posts of the socket are all connected to the live wire or neutral wire; The switch is misconnected to the live wire in the main line; The bulbs are connected in series in the circuit.

It is recommended that you see if the crackling sound of the local line is broken, if you see obvious traces of electric arcing, it should be there. Before looking at it, turn off the electricity and be careful of electric shock.

The line of the shunt switch touches the wire or is connected incorrectly. Have an installation electrician and inspect the wiring. First, check the wiring of the lighting shunt.

1. Check whether the air opening of the main and secondary lighting circuits is tripped. If it trips, then close it; If it doesn't trip, try pulling and then closing. After closing, the lighting of the main and secondary bedrooms returns to normal, indicating that there is no problem with the circuit being empty.

After closing, the lights in the main and secondary bedrooms still cannot be lit, indicating that the circuit is empty or there is a problem with the circuit circuit. 2. Use a test pen to test the lower end of the main and secondary bedroom lighting circuits. If there is no electricity, the air opening is broken, and the air opening can be replaced.

If there is electricity, check whether the neutral line of the circuit is falsely connected; If the zero line is in good contact, there is a problem with the circuit. 3. Check the wire joints of the main and secondary bedroom circuits. Depending on the room type, in the master bedroom or the second bedroom, it is not difficult to find the switch closest to the distribution box, and the power cord of the circuit is first concealed to this switch; Remove the switch panel, check it carefully, the problem should be here:

There is electricity in the incoming wire, but the wire is virtually connected, resulting in the entire lighting circuit being unable to supply power normally.

Summary. The first thing to do is to check the power supply in the room to see if it is normal. If the power supply is normal, it may be a problem with the electronics or circuit board, you can use a professional test instrument to check for missing parts or connections, and then replace all the incorrect parts or interfaces one by one.

If that doesn't help, then we can ask a professional circuit repairer or electrical repairer to help us repair and ensure that the circuit in the room is safe and stable.

What to do if there is a problem with the electrical circuit in a room.

The first thing to do is to check the power supply in the room to see if it is normal. If the power supply is normal, it may be a problem with the electronics or circuit board, you can use a professional test instrument to check for missing parts or connections, and then replace all the incorrect parts or interfaces one by one. If that doesn't help, then we can ask a professional circuit repairer or electrical repairer to help us repair and ensure that the circuit in the room is safe and stable.

Then the diagram below gives you another direction.

The charging cable burned when I filled the hot water bottle, so the switch and plug didn't work, but the other rooms were fine.

See if that interface is commonly used.

It is recommended to find a maintenance master to replace the socket.

It's okay not to use it often.

Aging of the charging cable and poor contact may cause the cable to burn out.

Uh-huh. If you still don't understand, please remember to add questions, it is not easy to answer the questions, just to earn these few points of firewood.

Is it that the wiring in the whole room is burned out?

It's a drop. It was a point that went wrong and the whole room burned out.

The only way to do it is to replace it.

My house is a wainscoting, so troublesome.

<> is a nuisance.

No way around this.

Possible causes

1. It is possible that the switch in the house is larger than the switch of the meter, and the electricity consumption is often overloaded (relative to the switch of the meter entering the house);

2. Another possibility is that the wire insulation between the switch in the house and the meter switch is damaged, and the power consumption will cause a short circuit fault;

3. Another possibility is that the wire of the switch of the household meter is loose and needs to be tightened.

Protection of home circuits.

The first line of protection is the sub-switch of each circuit in the home distribution box. This switch is also a protective measure at the very end of our electricity. For example, almost all the socket circuits in our home are leakage protection switches.

For the lighting circuit in the home, almost all of them are selected air switches.

The second line of protection is the main switch in the home distribution box. According to the different choices, the main switch is actually divided into two situations: one is the air switch, and the other is the isolation switch.

Both of these switches can be used to control and protect the various branch circuits below to meet our requirements for safe electricity and operation safety.

The third protection is the main gate at the lower mouth of the meter in the outdoor public meter box. All the electricity in our family is connected from the lower mouth of the meter, and first of all, there is a main switch at the lower mouth of the meter to connect our indoor electricity. Therefore, our indoor electricity is protected by this main gate.