What should I do if the self built house has been built for 3 years and the girder has a penetrating

The phenomenon of cracks in the beams of self-built houses is relatively common, generally some irregular small cracks on the surface, and there areStirrupsLocationConcrete coveringNot enough cracks to appear, such cracks are relatively normal, and only need to be repaired slightly. But if it is a breakthrough crack in the problem, it is a very serious problem, and it also means that the girder has been completely broken and no longer has the bearing capacity, and in this case, it is necessary to take treatment measures.

There are several main reasons for the appearance of penetrating cracks in the beams of self-built houses.

Many people think that the reason for the fracture of the girder of the self-built house may be the lack of reinforcement and concrete marking.

There are several problems such as insufficient and premature mold removal, but I personally think that if it is for these reasons, it may not be necessary to wait for three years later, and cracks should be found in a short time. Therefore, after three years, the girder will be broken, the main reason is that there is a problem with the structure of the beam, such as insufficient cross-sectional size, unreasonable reinforcement and other reasons, resulting in the overload of the girder resulting in fracture.

What are the most suitable treatment methods after the girder of the self-built house is broken?

There are many ways to deal with the broken beams of self-built houses, the simplest is to build a brick wall under the heavy beam, and turn the beam bearing into wall load-bearing, in addition to this method, you can also take the method of adding load-bearing columns at the fracture (this practice is recommended to be used only on the first floor, and the load-bearing columns cannot be added at will if you are on other floors). In addition to these two methods, there are many other treatment methods for the fracture of self-built house beams, such as high-pressure injection of structural adhesive.

Reinforced concrete for girders.

Increase strengthening, steel structure reinforcement, etc., these methods are not recommended to do it yourself, and professional things are still handed over to professional people to do more reliable.

In general, the presence of a penetrating crack in the beam of a self-built house indicates that the beam has been in a fractured state and has caused structural damage to the self-built house, so measures must be taken in time。Personally, I think that in addition to building a wall under the girder can be done by yourself, it is better to ask professionals to deal with several other reinforcement and enhancement methods, and it is not recommended to do it yourself at will to avoid the situation that the effect does not meet the requirements.

Answer: This is very dangerous, if there is a condition, the whole house can be demolished is a foolproof strategy, if not demolished, it should be reinforced, and piers should be erected under the broken beams.

Carefully inspect the beam body to have several fracture points, and also look at the location of the fracture points. If there are several break points, and you don't want to tear down the beam, add a wall under the beam.

At this time, you can choose to knock out the girder and make a new girder.

It is likely that there will be some structural problems in the rural self-built house, and if there is a large number of broken relationships, then the house is already very dangerous. Remedial needs to be done.

The phenomenon of cracks in the beams of self-built houses is more common, generally some irregular small cracks on the surface, and there are also cracks in the concrete protective layer at the stirrup position, which is relatively normal, and only needs to be slightly repaired. However, if it is a breakthrough crack mentioned in the problem, it is a very serious problem, and it also means that the girder has been completely broken and no longer has the ability to carry the weighing bench, and in this case, it is necessary to take treatment measures.

1) Base surface treatment: use a brush to sweep the dust on the surface of the crack along the crack, and polish the crack with a grinder to remove the dirt such as floating skin and scum that are easy to fall off around the crack, and then use the brush dipped in cleaning agent to scrub the 30 40mm along both sides of the crack and keep it dry. For honeycomb surfaces and exposed ribs, use quick-drying sealing glue for surface repair.

2) Set the grouting nozzle: arrange the grouting nozzle at the widest part of the crack on the side of the beam, evenly apply a layer of sealing glue around the bottom of the grouting nozzle, pay attention not to block the glue hole of the base, align the glue hole of the base with the crack, paste and install, the grouting nozzle should be staggered, and the distance of the grouting nozzle should be determined according to the size of the crack, generally 200 300mm, but to ensure that each crack has at least one grouting hole, exhaust hole and grouting hole.

Shed high punch (3) Sealing cracks: Since it is not necessary to remove the sealing glue on the surface after construction, the YJ quick-drying sealing glue is used to seal the joints, adjust the glue in proportion, and apply 30 40mm wide along the crack direction with a scraper to seal the cracks tightly. Both sides of the crack through the chain should be closed, and the grout can be grouting after the sealing glue is hardened (about 1h).

4) Sealing inspection: After the sealing glue is cured, brush a layer of soapy water on the surface, and pass compressed air into the joint through the grouting nozzle, if there is no air leakage, it means that the sealing effect is good, otherwise it should be repaired.

5) Configure resin grout: Weigh the A and B groups of AB resin accurately in proportion, mix evenly in the container, mix 500g each time, and use it with the mix. Pour the prepared resin grout into the hose of the grout, then install the grout on the base, and let go of the switch to grout.

6) Grouting : with YJ-special automatic pressure grouting device. The penetrating crack should be grouting on both sides at the same time, and the grouting should be poured from bottom to top. Each grouting is subject to the slurry rising from the adjacent mouth, plugging it with a plug immediately after the slurry rising, and then pressing and filling it sequentially until the last @ sticker slurry.

7) End of sealing: After grouting, when the grout in the seam is condensed but does not flow out, the grouting nozzle can be removed, and the grouting hole can be sealed with sealing glue and smoothed.