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First, natural degradation. The leaves on each of the false bulbs of the orchids we breed have their own lifespan. Some people say it's three years, and some friends say it's five years.
This may be different from the innate factors of orchids, the different growing conditions in the north and south of the acquired world, and the different effects of the outside world. Under normal circumstances, the same species of orchid growing in a warmer area may have a lifespan of three years per leaf, while an orchid growing in a cooler area may have a lifespan of five years per leaf. Therefore, the leaves of orchids will also degenerate at a certain age, just like humans.
If the growing conditions are suitable, it may last a little longer, and if the growing conditions are not suitable for its growth, then the lifespan of each leaf will be greatly reduced. As a result, there are often yellow and withered leaves of old orchid seedlings, and the phenomenon of degradation occurs.
Second, leaf blight. In daily management, no matter how carefully we manage, it is inevitable that there will be germs. Orchid leaf blight is also a common disease of orchid plants.
It is mainly due to the fungus infects the leaves of the plant, the leaves gradually yellowing and withering from the tip, and when the whole leaf yellows to a certain extent, it will automatically fall off from the leaf nodes. There are also orchid varieties where the leaf nodes are not obvious, so they will not form a detachment layer and will not fall off automatically. In plants infested with leaf blight, the pseudobulb underneath is usually not broken.
As long as these pseudobulbs maintain sufficient moisture, the bulbs are bright green and plump. Later, when changing pots and dividing plants, they can be cut off and planted separately, and they can be cultivated into new plants.
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As long as the mesophyll cells of the leaf are damaged, the leaf tissue at the damaged site will rot, so that the leaves will appear black spots or plaques.
It could be an orchid with a rotten heart, and you poured water into the heart of the leaf when watering, or it could be a germ infection.
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If the root of the leaf is black, it means that the leaf is separated from the body, and there is no condition for survival.
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This is because the leaves are sick or lack the required trace elements, which can happen if they are not treated in time.
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Hello, pro 1, the leaves of infected plants are black, probably because of the infection of diseases, common diseases are anthracnose, brown spot, black spot, etc., after the onset of the plant, there will be small black spots on the leaf surface of the plant, and gradually expand when it is severe in the later stage, and begin to spread throughout the leaves, until the leaves fall. 2. If the root rotten plant grows in an environment with too much humidity for a long time, or the concentration is too high when fertilizing it, there will be root rot, and then extend to the stem and leaves, making the leaves black. 3. Low-temperature frostbite For plants that are not cold-tolerant, they grow in a cold environment for a long time in winter, and after suffering from low-temperature frost damage, the leaves will melt and turn black, at this time, the frostbitten leaves need to be removed, and then the incision is smeared with disinfectant water, and the plants are moved to a warm environment for maintenance.
4. If the blackening of the leaves of the lack of fertilizer plants spreads relatively slowly, it may be because of the lack of phosphate fertilizer or potassium fertilizer, and the healthy growth of the plant needs sufficient nutrient supply, such as forgetting to fertilize for a long time, it will lead to the lack of nutrients and blackening of the leaves, at this time, it is necessary to immediately supplement the compound fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium.
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There are the following reasons for the yellowing and blackening of the leaves, which can be treated.
1. Dry yellow. The yellow of lack of water is different from the yellow of water, the yellow of lack of water is the withering and dry leaf tips or edges, and the old leaves are withered and yellow from the bottom to the top, but the growth of new leaves is relatively normal. Pay attention to watering when watering enough, water thoroughly.
Second, lack of fat yellow.
It is manifested in the color of young leaves becoming lighter, yellow or light green, while old leaves are more normal or gradually turning from green to yellow. It is necessary to check the potting soil frequently, if there is a dry phenomenon, the soil should be replaced, the thin fertilizer should be applied frequently, and some alum water should be poured to supplement iron in a timely manner.
Third, the lack of light yellow.
If the leaves are shaded for a long time, the leaves will not get enough sunlight to form chlorophyll, and the whole leaves will turn yellow and then fall off, and this disease can be avoided by supplementing light.
Fourth, fat yellow. The yellowing of flowers caused by excessive fertilization or excessive concentration is manifested in dry brown at the top of the new leaves, and the general leaf surface is thick and dull, and the concave and convex are not stretched, and the old leaves are scorched and yellow. Fertilization should be stopped immediately, and part of the fertilizer should be washed with plenty of washing in severe cases.
Fifth, burn yellow. Strong sunlight directly onto some shade-loving flowers (such as spider plants, hostas, etc.) is easy to cause the leaf tips and leaf margins of flowers to wither, and the sunny part of the leaves to appear yellow spots. Move to the pubic area.
Sixth, water yellow. The young leaves are dark yellow and dull, the old leaves have no obvious changes, the branches are small yellow-green, and the new shoots are shrunk and not long, indicating excessive watering. Depot the flowers, put them in a ventilated and cool shade, and dry the soil ball before putting them back into the pot.
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Reasons: 1. If it is aloe vera, or other succulents, it is generally caused by excessive rain. 2. It may also be watering on the body, especially fertilizer water, which is easy to cause this.
3. If it is a general woody plant, it may be black rot.
Treatment method: 1. If the leaves are black spots due to poor ventilation, the prevention and control method is to remove the diseased leaves and pay attention to ventilation.
2. If it is due to the low temperature, you should bask in more sun during the day and take it indoors at night, but don't put it in the bedroom, it will release carbon dioxide at night, which is not good for people's health.
3. If it is a mold infection, it is recommended that the owner properly ventilate the bonsai under the premise of not blowing dry wind, spray it with 800 times of methyl tobuzin, and control watering. Properly supplement some sunlight and increase nitrogen fertilizer.
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Use fungicides to control the spread of lesions. 1) Moldy spots or mildew layers on the spots of the leaves are fungal spot diseases. Prevention and control methods:
Before 9 a.m. or after 5 p.m., spray with 600 times 80% carbendazim or 700 times 70% methyl tobuzin aqueous solution for control, so that the leaves do not drip water. 2) On the spots of the leaves, there are no mold spots or mold layers, which is bacterial spot disease. Prevention and control methods:
Before 9 a.m. or after 5 p.m., spray with 1000 times aqueous solution of agricultural streptomycin or penicillin, and it is advisable to prevent the leaves from dripping. If the disease is more severe, spray again every 5-7 days.
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The roots of the plant can still be revived when they are black, so you need to remove them from the soil and prepare a sharp, sterilized pair of scissors to cut off the rotten and blackened roots and put them on carbendazim.
Soak in the solution for 20 minutes to disinfect the plant, and finally remove the plant, move it to a ventilated environment to dry, and replant it in a fertile, loose substrate.
The roots of the plant can be rescued when they are black, as long as the roots are not completely rotten and dead, after rescue, they can still survive normally, because the vitality of the plant is very tenacious, so after the phenomenon of yellow leaves and rotten roots, it can be dealt with in time.
After the roots of the plant are black and rotten, it is necessary to prune them in time, prepare a pair of sharp gardening scissors to cut off the rotten root system, and then soak the plant in carbendazim disinfection solution for 10-20 minutes to reduce bacterial growth.
The pot should be made of breathable clay pots, mud pots and purple sand pots, and the bottom must have drainage holes, and the soil should be rich in organic matter, high softness and good drainage.
In the cultivation process, it is necessary to provide soft, bright scattered light for the plants to ensure that the leaves can photosynthesize.
And water every 3-5 days to keep the soil slightly moist, and avoid stagnant water, otherwise it will rot the roots.
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Different plant measures are different.
Horse drunken wood suffers from leaf spot, with oval, elongated light reddish-brown lesions on the leaves, surrounded by a green ring, and then enlarged into irregular large patches, and black spots are produced on the lesions.
Remove the diseased leaves in time, spray the agent in time, and spray 500 times of 50% Tobuzin wettable powder. The leaf spot disease of horse drunken wood is well controlled, and after the diseased leaves are cut, spraying can be prevented.
Horse drunken wood likes moist, semi-shady environment, cold hardy, can also grow in full light, like fertile, acidic, permeable soil. It has the characteristics of wind resistance and pollution resistance, with an average annual temperature of more than 15 and an average annual rainfall of 1200-1400 mm.
Cultivation technology: choose the soil: the young leaves of the horse drunken wood are colorful, there are red, pink, pink green, tender yellow, orange and other colors, when planting in small courtyards, it is advisable to choose high terrain, good drainage, fertile, humus-rich acidic sandy loam soil, plant row spacing of 2 meters to 3 meters. Potted plants can be used with garden soil, sand, and manure press 6:
Formulated 2:2.
Scientific fertilization: Sex prefers warm, moist and semi-shaded environments. Keep the soil moist during the growing period and apply Huiyou 21-7-7 acid fertilizer once a month. In winter, a furrow is made around the canopy to fertilize and cover with a layer of bark chips to keep warm for wintering.
The temperature should be suitable: the horse drunk wood is more cold-resistant, afraid of high temperature and strong light exposure, the growth is 10 -15, the cold-resistant species can withstand 15, and the general species can withstand 5.
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Summary. What is the plant?
The leaves of the plant turned black and died. What's going on?
What is the plant?
I don't know what plant it is.
Send it over and take a look.
Only ** can be sent here.
Okay, wait a minute.
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