How to solve the problem of several bags of ground arch in an old rural house?

In your case, the state has a rule that he will compensate according to the compensation clause of the cultivated land, because you have built your own house on the ground, so the state will also compensate you for the cost of the house, but this cost will be assessed, but it will definitely not make you lose. Because you are renting land, the land compensation is to the landowner, but you have to contract for 20 years, so the landowner is still compensating for your losses, this amount is negotiated between you and the landowner, if you have a contract before, then according to the contract, if not, you can only negotiate and decide, but if you are not satisfied with the amount of compensation, you can directly sue and let the relevant departments of the court evaluate and decide. But the house you build on the land will definitely compensate you, and the amount will only be more, not less.

And also to compensate for your financial losses, if you are not satisfied, you can also sue, in the end you will definitely win the case. In fact, it is very troublesome for anyone to dare to do this kind of thing, but it will definitely not let you lose money. It's just that there are more formalities.

But don't worry, this kind of solution is very good, you will not suffer any losses, and the court will protect your rights and interests! Rest assured.

If it is in the city, then according to the existing regulations, the transfer of rural homesteads is prohibited. So the contract between you and the seller is invalid. You can only ask the person who bought your house to return the purchase price of your home.

2. If it is rural, does not belong to the same village, or has nothing to do with the location of the village of the house, (such as relatives or something), then the same sales contract can also be said to be invalid, and the same can only ask for the return of the house payment.

The reasons for the arching of floor tiles are roughly as follows.

One is that the expansion gap between the floor tiles and the floor tiles and between the floor tiles and the surrounding walls is too narrow! When the room temperature changes drastically, the floor, cement layer and ceramic tiles will appear thermal expansion and contraction, such as the gap is too fine, there is not enough space for the tile to "stretch", the tile is easy to arch, which is easy to appear in the northern region, because the humidity is large, the temperature difference is small, not easy to appear.

Second, when paving floor tiles, cement and yellow sand are not mixed in the correct proportion. If the cement grade is low and the yellow sand is put too much, after a long time, the cement in the lower layer will not be able to bond the floor tiles, causing the floor tiles to be upturned.

There is also a relatively rare reason, if the original cement floor is very smooth, in the case of tiles without hair, it is also easy to appear tile arching.

Ways to solve the arching of tiles.

Check whether it is an individual tile arch or a large area of arching. You can use the knock tile, the sound of the empty tile is already hollow, that is, the tile has been separated from the cement layer, such a tile is easy to crack if it is barely pressed. Therefore, it is necessary to pry up the arched tiles, re-pavement, and if there are a large number of hollow tiles, they should simply be re-paved in their entirety.

Precautions for resurfacing tiles.

1.The joints between the arched tiles and other tiles are sawn with a cutter (there will be a lot of dust when cutting, and you need to constantly add water to the cutter. Carefully lift the tile, the action must be light, otherwise it is easy to cause the tile to crack.

2.Scrape off all the cement mortar that sticks to the edge of the tile. Treat the cement layer under the bricks, plane off 1-2 cm and clean it up.

Wall tiles 1:3, floor tiles: 1:

2-3, the cement number of cement is the number of cement. In addition, if white cement is used, be sure to use 108 glue, which can make the cement and floor tiles tightly bonded.

4.Re-pave and flatten the cleaned tiles, and then use a caulking machine to reinforce the cement after the cement is completely dry, so as to avoid the phenomenon of upturned and cracking of the floor tiles.

Before a long time, the gap in the floor will be smaller, and the second building may be slightly deformed.

Floor tile bulging may be affected by many factors, especially the 20-year-old house, in the year, construction, material, back.

There will be different degrees of damage to the impact.

So first of all, the reason for the bulging of floor tiles cannot escape the reason that the cement bonding is not strong or not in place, of course, the cement is not sticky.

Caused by a variety of reasons.

First, it may be that the water-cement specific gravity of cement increases when there is stagnant water, so that the cement is not firmly bonded to the surface of the base layer.

Second, it may be that the surface of the base layer is too dry, and after the cement is paved, the moisture in it is quickly absorbed by the base layer, and the hydration of the cement particles is effected.

It cannot be carried out sufficiently, which reduces the strength of the surface layer and affects the adhesion.

Of course, it is also possible that the surface of the applied base layer is not clean, making the bond not strong.

Of course, it is also possible that the brick layer at the door is too high or the watering is not moist enough, so that the surface cement mortar is too thin and loses water too quickly, causing cracks and hollowing.

Reasons for bulging floor tiles:

When the cement mortar is laid, the base is too wet, and there is water, especially the water-cement ratio of the base cement mortar with water increases, resulting in poor bonding with the base layer. If the surface layer on the upper surface of the pipe is too thin, it will also cause the surface layer to crack and hollow.

When the cement mortar is laid, the surface of the base is too dry, and it is not watered and moistened or not moist enough, so after the cement mortar is laid, the moisture in the cement mortar is quickly absorbed by the base layer, causing the water loss of the mortar too quickly, so that the hydration of the cement particles can not be fully carried out, reducing the strength of the surface layer, and affecting the bonding with the base layer.

The brick layer at the entrance is too high or the watering is not moist enough, so that the surface cement mortar is too thin and loses water too quickly, resulting in cracks and hollowing.

The surface of the base layer is not cleaned, and there is garbage, dust or pollutants, which affects the strong bond between the surface layer and the base layer.

Floor tile hollowing phenomenon hollowing solution:

General process: first take out the hollow drum tile, and then clean the base layer and the back of the tile, it is recommended to use fast and good anti-mildew super sealing structural adhesive or use fast and good strong liquid nail 300ml on the back of the tile, using multi-point distribution as well. Finally, level with a rubber hammer.

It is recommended to use 2kg of ExxCare's caulk for the joint.

Construction method: 1Base surface treatment: Remove oil, dust and loose materials from the work surface, clean the gaps of the tiles, and ensure that there is no debris and stagnant water.

2.Stirring: Pour the dry powder into a container containing 27%-29% water in a certain proportion, stir at low speed with an electric mixer, stir while pouring the powder until the thick slurry (like paste) with no granulation and precipitation is uniform and free of granulation and precipitation, and then stir for 1-2 minutes before use.

3.Caulking: Use a professional caulking tool to completely press the caulk into the gap diagonally, taking care not to leave it empty. After 10 minutes, wipe off the caulk from the tile surface with a damp sponge or cloth.

4.Cleaning: After the caulk is dry, use a wrung out wet sponge to clean the surface of the tile. Try to avoid strong direct sunlight for 3 days after construction, and it is recommended to sprinkle and maintain the construction of the caulking material every day for a week.

I don't know if it's because he's been serious for a while, or if someone tutored him to study, he scored more than 80 points in this midterm exam.

The reasons could be:

1.Thermal expansion and cold contraction, in which a brick is squeezed and bulged.

2.The proportion of cement mortar during construction is not right, which causes hollowing and bulging in the later stage, but this phenomenon generally causes a lot of bricks to bulge.

3.Exaggeration, **, the settlement and deformation of the house, resulting in uneven floor slabs and falling off floor tiles.

It took 20 years to copy like this.

This tile has been.

It's a good thing to attack the scriptures.

Because the floor tiles and cement mortar are delaminated, mainly because you do not have the air conditioning there all year round to adjust the temperature and humidity, resulting in the thermal expansion and contraction of the floor tiles, and it is not a problem for workers to install the drum after 20 years.

It's normal for 20 years to do this.

Because the floor tiles and cement mortar are delaminated, mainly because you don't have the air conditioning to adjust the temperature and humidity capacity within four seasons of the year, resulting in the thermal expansion and contraction of the floor tiles, and it is not a problem for workers to install the drum in 20 years.

I happen to know this, my flooring was like this last winter, and then I asked the construction people and said it was caused by cold expansion and heat contraction.

If it is only cracked and there is no hollow drum delamination, it is recommended to let it be grouting treatment; If the cracking and hollowing delamination exceed the requirements of the national norms and standards, the compensation standard should be negotiated on the basis of the cost of rectification and maintenance. If the ground is leveled and cracked, it is a common construction quality problem, which is an abnormal phenomenon, and the reason is mainly due to the fact that the base is too dry and does not do sprinkling treatment or the temperature is high and the water evaporates quickly and does not do a good job of sprinkling and maintenance.

Haven't heard of wax on the back of the floor tiles.

There are generally three reasons why the floor tiles arch up, 1. There is a problem with the mortar, or there is a lot of soil in the sand, or the cement label is not enough; 2. The gap reserved for each brick is not enough, or there is no gap at all, or the brick that has just been glued is stepped on too early; 3. The house as a whole has the phenomenon of sinking and tilting. This phenomenon is rare, and most of them are due to the first two reasons.

Generally speaking, where there is a lot of rain, the ground will be damp, and the place where the floor tiles are brushed will be loose, and it will arch.

The foundation structure has been deformed, and the floor tiles should be removed again to tidy up the foundation.

The reason why the general floor tiles bulge up is that the cement sand used in the brick laying is relatively large, and it is easier to expand and shrink after a long time, the key is to use wet sand to hook directly with the cement, which is absolutely not in the addition of water, as long as the brick is soaked for 30 minutes and then paved, even if the seamless brick will not bulge. Put your bulging bricks together, salt cut a line with a cutter to reduce the size, and then glue it with glass glue.

The tile joints are too narrow, the tile is hollow and delaminated, the cushion under the tile, and the cement mortar layer is hollow and delaminated, all of which may cause the tile to arch.

Solution: Clean up the back of the arched tile and the floating soil of the base layer, and paste it with cement mortar again. Or apply a layer of interface agent, fix the floating dust of the base layer, and paste it with tile adhesive.

You can use the method of the first floor, but the adobe house will peel off and shell after a long time, because the adobe is not a homogeneous material that has been burned at high temperature compared to the brick wall brick wall, and the stress change is basically eliminated after high temperature, and it is not easy to deform and crack. Because the adobe wall contains more impurities in the soil in the past, the thermal expansion and contraction are inconsistent, and the coating on the surface will naturally be separated from the arch and crack after a long time, which is determined by the wall itself.

So this problem is not only solved by coatings. This is the physical reaction of the wall.

Landlord, this can be solved, the dampness of the earthen house, the corner of the wall, must be ventilated inside and out. The earthen house is afraid of moisture, the solution, in the corner of the wall, the cracks don't matter, it needs to be repaired, don't use other materials to decorate, are wasted, it will also shorten its life, decorate with raw materials, flatten, and then water-based exterior wall paint, do exterior walls, and use integrated wall panels for interior walls! Remember, don't seal the corners of the wall to ventilate, fill all the cracks, tiles, choose plastic tiles, less load-bearing!

The walls are ventilated inside and out! Package you to live for another 100 years. The ditch around the house is deep, and the ground is leveled with concrete except for the corners!

Only the reason why the old house uses stones when cutting the corners, there are many old houses with stones in the corners, and there are cracks, and later people slowly seal the corners, but the life of the house is not long! If the corner of your house is sealed, open a few windows, and ventilate when the weather is good, there is a saying. After you listen to it, you will know how to solve it, the mountains are high and the water is higher, and there is water in every inch of soil.

The mud bodhisattva crosses the river, and it is difficult to protect himself, why many bodhisattvas are made of mud. Why can you stay so long, you know how to decorate your house, how to let it stay for another 100 years!

The renovation of adobe walls, the renovation of old houses turned out to be the problem of scraping putty on the walls of adobe structures:

1. The first floor is generally relatively humid, but there should be room for improvement; e.g. whether the branches outside the building can be pruned; Whether the drainage ditch outside the building can be dug deeper, at least lower than the indoor ground; Open more windows on sunny days, etc.; (Find out more about the reasons and improve it from the source).

2. Usually put lime bags in some corners, dry tea leaves in the cabinet, etc., and dry them on sunny days; Try not to touch the wall of furniture; 3. Shovel off the old stucco layer of the wall, etc., use a layer of cement mortar powder after drying, batch a moisture-proof putty and then use 108 and other backings, and then use a normal batch of putty after drying, polish after drying, and roll latex paint.

I can tell you the answer. First of all, clean the wall, then use Bang Mercure to paint the bottom layer of the plaster to make up some holes, and then use Bang Mercure to paint the bottom layer of the plaster to scrape about 8 mm thick, and then scrape the Bang Anju water-resistant putty twice. Use this method and product to ensure that there will be no more problems with the walls of your home.

I'm a professional in researching this.

Use plaster to scrape twice and then scrape putty, pay attention to scraping plaster to have a certain professional and technical person to operate, otherwise it is difficult to achieve good results.