How to prevent and control orchid anthracnose

Prevention and control measures for orchid anthracnose: (1) Horticultural management: potted orchids should be placed in a ventilated and transparent place, placed in the open field or planted with shade nets, and pay attention to prevent the attack of storms.

Do not plant or place too densely. When watering, pour from the edge of the pot, not as a head. Cut off the diseased leaves, uproot the diseased plants and destroy them in a centralized manner.

2) Pharmaceutical prevention and control: At the beginning of the onset of orchid anthracnose, spray 1000 times of 65% methamphetamine wettable powder, or 800 times of 80% Lvheng No. 2 wettable powder, or 500 times of 25% carbon trane wettable powder, or 500 times of 80% anthrax Fumei wettable powder, or 600 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, etc. 1 time every 10 days or so, spray 3 or 4 times in a row.

It is better to have a small mouth, a deep pot and a large bottom hole for flower pots. Newly dug wild seedlings from the mountains must be planted in tile pots, and can only be replaced with purple sand pots or porcelain pots after 2 or 3 years. First, cover the hole at the bottom of the pot with mussel shells, brown flakes, etc., and add coarse sand, cinder and charcoal to form a steamed bun, accounting for about 1 3 capacity.

Add culture soil about 3 to 5 cm thick. Generally, no base fertilizer is added. Then put the orchid into the pot, arrange the roots densely, add the mixed fine soil to 2 3 cm away from the pot, lift the orchid plant slightly, and the height is subject to the upper end of the false bulb and the soil surface, not too shallow or too deep.

Gently press the potting soil so that the soil is in close contact with the roots, and then use your fingers to compact along the perimeter of the pot to avoid causing cavities when watering. If the top layer is coated with a layer of moss or broken tiles, watering will not easily cause compaction and reduce water evaporation. The first watering adopts the pot sitting method, so that the pot absorbs enough water.

Finally, put the orchid in the shade for about half a month to one month. Watering should be controlled during this time and should not be too wet. Later, it is placed in half shade and half sun, which is ventilated and can shine into the sun in the morning.

The pot should be about 1 meter high and should not be placed on the platform to prevent ants and earthworms from entering through the hole at the bottom of the pot and affecting the growth of orchids. The culture soil can be mixed with the first layer of hillside soil on the mountain, or mixed with fine sand and loam 3:7 plus humus compost 30%.

The culture soil should be sieved and disinfected before use.

Fertilize. It is not possible to do it without it, and it is even more difficult to apply more and repeat it. For example, if the new orchid is potted, the potting soil is too fat, and it often cannot survive, and even if it can survive, it rarely blooms.

If there is too much fertilizer in summer, the autumn leaves are more vigorous, which often leads to poor flowering of the leaves in spring next year. If there is too little autumn fertilizer, it will affect the formation of underground flower buds at the turn of autumn and winter. If there is too much nitrogen fertilizer and too much fertilizer on weekdays, the growth of leaves and flowers will be nutriently unbalanced, and the phenomenon of no flowering or less flowering will occur.

Generally speaking, the leaf buds are newly emerging and can be applied several times with a small amount of light fertilizer. The spring equinox, the autumn equinox and about 20 days after the flowers are falling, are more appropriate times. The best time to apply fertilizer is in the evening, and then water once in the early morning of the next day.

Apply once every 2-3 weeks. At the same time, trium potassium dihydrogen phosphate is sprayed once every 20 days to promote the flowering of pregnant buds. Fertilization depending on the color of the leaves, is a more appropriate method, the leaves are yellow and thin is a lack of fertilizer, should be top dressed, black and the leaf tip is scorched is too much fertilizer, should stop fertilization.

Fertilizer must be rotten, can not be used without rotting, avoid using human feces.

Spray with carbendazim dilution.

1. Cut off the diseased leaves and plants and burn them.

The diseased part of the orchid leaves that have suffered from anthrax should be cut off; If the whole plant occurs and there is really no hope of rescue, the whole plant must be uprooted, and it must not be soft, so as not to spread and cause greater losses. Individual orchid pots can also be isolated and cultivated. Two points should be noted:

In the process of leaf cutting, the scissors should be constantly disinfected with alcohol to prevent the cutting mouth from getting sick; Second, the diseased leaves that have been cut off and the diseased plants that have been removed should be burned in a centralized manner and cannot be placed everywhere to avoid re-infection.

2. Spraying and dipping.

There are many pesticides for the prevention and treatment of anthracnose, the traditional ones are methyl tobuzin, carbendazim, zebden, etc., and the new drugs are bacterium shark, spray, spray fungus, etc., which are bacteriostatic agents for the treatment of anthracnose in various garden flowers, with systemic absorption, prevention, protection and ** effect, and is a pesticide with low toxicity, safety, no pollution to the environment, and not easy to produce resistance.

In the early stage of the disease, spray 10,000 times the dilution, and increase the dosage appropriately when the disease is severe. The drug can be mixed with a variety of pesticides, but should not be mixed with strong acids and alkalis. Anthrax is all about prevention.

Prevention should start from the hibernation period, and spraying should be comprehensive, orchid leaves, orchid plants, orchid pots, orchid soil and orchid gardens should be fully sprayed to eliminate germs in the germination stage.

Anthrax generally begins to occur in spring and summer, and is most serious in July and August, so you should seize this critical time to spray, not only on the foliage, but also on the back of the leaf, so that it can be completely sterilized.

For the prevention of ineffective and has caused the spread of anthrax into the soil and infringed on the root of the orchid, it is no longer possible to spray the surface alone, so it is necessary to change the pot and change the soil, pour out the whole pot of orchids, remove the old soil, cut off the diseased leaves, diseased roots, and diseased buds, wash them with water, and then spray the leaves with 10,000 times the dilution solution, and soak the orchid root for 2 3h, take it out and dry it and repot it with new soil.

If you use the old orchid pot again, it must be cleaned, soaked in pesticides for disinfection, and exposed to the sun for 1 day. It can also be sprayed regularly and alternately when the new leaves are extracted, 50% carbendazim 500 times, 50% gramadan 500 times, 50% benzomyl 1500 times, the same amount of Bordeaux solution, 75% methyl tobuzine 1000 times, 7-10 days 1 time, a total of 4-5 times.

1. Anthrax is a common disease of orchids, and it has small yellow spots at the beginning. It is necessary to cut off the diseased leaves as soon as possible, and then buy zebin drugs and put them in a place with good air circulation after preparation. Don't let it get rainy, it will affect the potion.

2. After the occurrence of black spot, its leaves will become black, and the state of the whole plant will also deteriorate. You can give it some powdered rust medicine, and control the amount of watering when using the medicine, and properly ventilate.

3. Rot diseaseWhen the plant has rot disease, the bottom of its leaves and roots will be damaged, and copper sulfate should be used or sprayed with some bactericidal agents. This disease is generally caused by mold, so you should also pay attention to disinfection.

4. Leaf blightWhen some lesions appear on the leaves of orchids, the color of the center of the lesions is gray-brown, and the edges are black-brown. It is necessary to cut off the diseased leaves as soon as possible, and then spray it with good creatures, and stick to using it.

Strengthen the management of orchid cultivation, appropriate fertilization, watering should not be too much, potting soil should not be too wet, and at the same time, it is necessary to enhance ventilation and light transmission and reduce humidity.

In winter and spring, diseased branches, fruits, and leaves are completely removed to reduce initial infection**. In the growing season, diseased leaves and petioles should be cut off immediately and burned, and the dead plants should be removed in time.

In addition, mix some plant ash into the new potting soil of the orchid, mix well and then repot. After the orchid is potted, especially in winter, you can sprinkle a layer of reed charcoal on the topsoil, and then sprinkle a layer of plant ash on the topsoil, and place it in a ventilated place for maintenance.

What to do if an orchid has anthrax Don't be afraid to remember this method.

Anthracnose in orchids is manifested in the lesions on the leaves beginning to be round or oval, ** light brown or grayish-white, dark brown or black-brown on the edges, and a greenish halo around it; In the later stage, small black dots are produced on the lesions, scattered or slightly arranged in a wheel-like pattern, and under wet conditions, an orange-yellow sticky substance will appear. With the development of the disease, the lesions on the leaves can expand into large irregular spots up to several centimeters, or the lesions may be connected into patches, and finally cause the leaves to turn yellow.

During the onset of the disease, 75% chlorothalonil 1000 times solution, 20% tricyclazole 800 times solution, 50% anthrax Fumei 600 times solution can be used. 1 time every 7 to 10 days, multiple times in a row. Fungicides should be used in rotation to be more effective, mainly to prevent bacteria from developing resistance.

Vinegar. Orchid foliar spray vinegar can prevent anthrax. Take 1 tablespoon of vinegar and mix it with 1 kg of water and spray the orchid plant. Vinegar can also be added when pesticides are used.

Orchid diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses, mostly on leaves, followed by flowers, pseudobulbs and roots, and the susceptibility and prevalence are significantly higher than those of other flowers. Once the orchid grass develops, it loses its delicate and elegant charm, and its appreciation value declines. The occurrence and development of orchid diseases are closely related to the cultivation environment and management level of orchids, and these diseases can be effectively prevented as long as the causes of orchids are mastered.

The environment in which orchids grow is very conducive to the reproduction of pathogens, especially fungi. The damp and dreary air, the dark and dark space, and the permeable soil rich in organic matter nutrients provide excellent conditions for fungi to grow, so there are many fungal diseases in orchids. How can we overcome environmental adversity?

First of all, the air is required to be clean, the less dust content in the air, the less dust on the surface of the orchid leaves, and the smaller the chance of the spread of germs. The orchid planting environment should try to avoid facing streets, factories and other seriously polluted places. Secondly, it requires moderate shading, different orchid varieties have different light requirements, the shade is too large, and the orchid grass is tender and green; If the shade is too small, the leaves are yellowed, and the tips of the leaves are scorched, which may cause diseases in the upper body.

Only when the shade is moderate, the orchid leaves are firm, shiny, and resistant to disease. It is best to let the orchid bathe in the morning light, because the morning light is not only conducive to the growth of orchids, but also has a certain bactericidal effect. Then it is necessary to maintain a certain humidity and flow of the air, too large air humidity is conducive to the breeding and growth of diseases, too small is not conducive to the growth of orchids; In addition, the flow of air can prevent the air from becoming dull and keep the air fresh, so controlling the humidity and flow of the air is also a key measure to prevent diseases.

Finally, it is best to disinfect the soil before use. Putting the soil in a pot to steam thoroughly and then cooling it naturally can effectively kill fungi and bacteria in the soil.

Prevention and control methods: Pharmaceutical prevention is the last pass of orchid disease prevention, and it is also an effective method. Fungal diseases can be selected with agents such as carbendazim, tobuzin, chlorothalonil, mancozeb, etc.; Streptomycin, chloramphenicol, etc. can be used for bacterial diseases. It is important to take medication before or at the beginning of the disease, so that it can achieve twice the result with half the effort.

It is more likely to occur once every 10 days in more areas or seasons, and once a month or once a season if the incidence is less severe.

First, various agents are used alternately. For example, carbendazim, toblulu and mancozeb are used alternately, which has a good preventive effect and is not easy to make the bacteria resistant.

Second, the dose can be appropriately lightened, and the lowest concentration of the drug is better.

The third is symptomatic drug selection, and the sensitivity of different bacteria to drugs is also different, such as anthrax with carbendazim, tobuzin and other prevention. Chloramphenicol for bacterial soft rot has a very good preventive effect.

Maintain orchids, the most common pests and diseases, and prepare these two things for it, you can control it well.

Prescribe the right medicine, generally you get the orchid back, after moving the pot, put a bag of microbial agents that do not burn the roots at the bottom of the pot, such as Ye Hong Time microbial agents, so that the pot will slowly be healthier, and there will be fewer problems on the roots, just look at what problems will occur with the leaves and stems, you will find that there are fewer problems, because the microbial agents play a good role in regulation, improve resistance, and inhibit pests and diseases.

To control orchid disease, first of all, you have to figure out the insects and fungi.

Insecticides used for insect pests, such as soil insects, soot water, these are some animal poisons, which can prevent insects. If it is used indoors, try to choose some low-toxicity products for gardening.

Mycosis is some of the brown spot diseases, anthracnoses, stem rot, which are caused by fungi. Use drugs such as carbendazim, chlorothalonil, and tobuzin.

Hope it can help LZ.

1. White silk disease.

It usually occurs during the rainy season. Attention should be paid to ventilation and light transmission, good drainage of the potting soil to prevent it, after the onset of the disease, the infected potting soil can be removed, sprinkled with pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime.

2. Anthrax.

It is held all year round, and the hot and rainy season is even more rampant. In addition to improving the environment, the prevention and control methods are improved.

3. Scale insects.

In the case of high temperature and humidity and poor air flow, the reproduction is the fastest. Use conventional methods to prevent and control.

Raising orchids, 2 kinds of "diseases" can be prevented and controlled in time, so that they can grow longer and more robust.

The disease is mainly harmful to a variety of orchids such as spring orchid, Jianlan and Hui orchid. A large number of diseased spots appeared on the leaves of diseased plants, which affected the growth and ornamentation.

1. Symptoms: When orchid anthracnose occurs lightly, spots of different sizes appear on the leaves, which reduces its ornamental value; When it is severe, the leaves die, the orchid does not bloom, and the ornamental value is lost. In the early stage of anthracnose, the leaf tips showed reddish-brown lesions, and the lesions extended downward, causing the leaves to die in sections.

The lesions in the middle of the leaf are oval or round. The lesions on the leaf margin are semicircular. The leaf ridge is infected, and the lesions are connected in a line to form stripes.

It occurs at the base of the leaf, and the lesions are connected together, which can cause the leaf to wither. In the later stage, the color of the lesions becomes lighter, ** occasionally brownish yellow wheel lines, and scattered small black spots, which are the conidia disc of pathogenic bacteria. Lesions can heal into large spots and sometimes break longitudinally, causing perforations in the leaves.

The size of the lesions varies, ranging from 1 to 20 mm in diameter. It occurs on the fruit, and the lesions are of different shapes, generally black-brown and elongated. There is a difference in the onset time of new leaves and old leaves.

In the first half of the year, the disease is generally caused by old leaves, and in the second half of the year, it is mostly caused by new leaves.

2. Pathogenesis: The incidence of orchid anthracnose is the highest on the orchid strain, which is greater than 90%, and the pathogen mainly overwinters on the diseased leaves, diseased residues and wilted leaf-based bracts with mycelium. After overwintering, the germination rate of conidia is greatly reduced, and the bacteria are spread by wind, rain and insects.

In the late spring and early summer of the following year, the weather was humid and rainy, the germs began to infect, and the wounds and storms were more susceptible to infection, the temperature was 22 28, the relative humidity was more than 90%, and the soil pH was conducive to the germination of germination of germination. The disease usually begins in April for the old leaves, and the onset for the new leaves starts in August. The disease is severe in the hot and rainy season.

If the whole plant is severely damaged, the young shoots will also be infected when they first germinate.