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You know you need to prune, but you don't know when it's the right time to prune. Many people know that it should start with fruits and vegetables, and the deciduous fruit trees begin to sprout. This period is carried out, but different fruit trees, different varieties, according to different regions and young trees are mainly vegetative growth, the growth potential is relatively strong, delayed pruning can play a role in easing the tree momentum, early flowering role and purpose.
Weak trees should be cut first, and strong trees should be cut later. Because the weak tree itself contains few nutrients, early pruning can be the earliest breeding place for Fuji apples, and it has been awarded the title of the hometown of red Fuji apples in China. In the 80s of the last century, Yanzi's hometown mainly made a living by growing apples, which were the main economy of farmers.
But apple management is very tiring, in Yanzi's impression, first of all, if we want to prune fruit trees in winter, we can choose to prune off some withered branches first, these withered branches are no longer practical, so we need to prune them in time. Winter pruning is generally carried out after the middle of the eleventh month of the lunar calendar, when the orchard is already "silent", and there are no fallen leaves, which have been cleaned and brought home by hard-working farmers. Therefore, at this time the trim "painted is a clean".
<> dormancy pruning refers to the pruning of fruit trees after they have fallen leaves and before the tree buds and flowers bloom in the following year. Because the nutrients of the tree body and leaves flow back to the branches and roots of the tree body after the leaves fall, the tree body stores nutrients. After pruning a part, the number of shoots decreases, which ensures that the remaining shoots are nutritious and full of the benefits of winter
Pruning is carried out without leaves and does not affect photosynthesis. Thinning out some useless branches of diseases and insects, and reducing the amount of branch buds after pruning, can make the branches and buds left by pruning relatively use the stored nutrients, thereby enhancing the tree potential, promoting buds and fruits. At the same time, you can choose the best time according to your experience.
It is easy to freeze in the early stage, which affects the yield too late. Early-maturing varieties should be cut early, late-maturing varieties should be cut late, strong trees should be cut early, weak trees should be cut late, and young trees should be cut when germination.
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Winter pruning: During this period, the main pruning: pruning too dense branches, branches with diseases and pests, branches growing together, too many and too weak branches, to improve the ventilation and ventilation of the canopy. Winter shearing is in the north and south regions, the climate is different, and the time chosen is also different.
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One of the biggest aspects of pruning apple trees is the protection of the saw edge, ignoring it will directly lead to poor wound healing effect and great damage to the tree. Pruning should avoid causing too many and too large cutting and sawing edges, especially on the backbone branches at all levels, so as not to cause the tree to weaken.
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Under normal circumstances, after the fruit tree is picked, it can be pruned in late autumn, and some fruit trees have not even completely lost their leaves, from late autumn to before the freeze, it can be said that the best time for fruit tree pruning.
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In general, fruit trees are re-pruned in winter and early spring, including evergreen fruit trees such as citrus fruit trees and deciduous fruit trees such as kiwi trees. Winter pruning is best in December, and there are differences between each fruit tree, but generally the fruit trees with early germination are pruned early, and the fruit trees that sprout and eat are pruned backwards, but in principle, they need to be completed before germination. At the same time, because of the long time and sufficient labor, it is also suitable for pruning.
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1. Dormant pruning. Pruning from the fall of leaves in autumn and winter or the cessation of growth of evergreen fruit trees in autumn to the pruning before bud break in spring is considered dormant pruning. In general, it is better to prune deciduous fruit trees before the harsh winter after the dormant period.
Summer pruning is referred to as "summer shruns": now it is a hot day, the main purpose of our pruning is to control the prosperity, after a period of growth from spring to summer, the branches are already very vigorous. At this time, the fruit is also the time for Zhang Guo.
Dormant pruning and winter pruning, from the normal fall of leaves in autumn to before budding, during this time period, the stored nutrients of the fruit tree have branches and leaves to the branches and branches, and stored, at this time pruning to the nutrient loss is relatively small, because the pruning time of the fruit tree without leaves is generally in winter and summer. Winter pruning is generally done before the bud break of fruit trees. The germination period is relatively early, and the germination period can be postponed later, and the winter pruning is generally to reduce the long branches, drooping branches, and over-dense branches of fruit trees.
Winter pruning in the dormant period, generally before the leaves fall to bud, the method of truncation and retraction is adopted. Its effect promotes the rapid growth of cut buds, renews the branch group, and delays the fruiting. Prune the dorsal branches and straighten the branches to improve the leaf coefficient.
Generally, deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before their budding and dormancy, preferably in December of the year, so as to avoid damage to the pruning opening. However, walnut trees should be pruned after picking the fruit, so as to avoid large damage caused by pruning.
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After pruning in winter, be sure to wrap a layer of plastic cloth on the pruning part, the best time for pruning is in November, because the weather in November is not very cold, and the pruning will not let the wound freeze.
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Pruning of fruit trees during the growing season can be carried out in spring, autumn and summer. Pruning in the spring is generally around March, while in the summer it is generally pruned.
Around June and July. In autumn, August and September are the best months.
1. When it promotes the emergence of new branches, topping can effectively shape it, avoid the phenomenon of overgrowth, and effectively improve the fruiting rate and the number of flowers in the coming year.
2. Cut off the plant from the bottom branch to reduce the nutrient delivery of the plant to the upper branch. It can cut off those branches that are too dense, crossed, dead and so on, which can improve the main growth part of the tree and promote the growth of the rest of the branches.
3. Pruning the length of the branches can improve the uniform sunlight exposure, enhance the growth of local branches and adjust the growth direction of the branches. It can also moderate the growth of branches, promote the differentiation of flower buds, and thicken the growth of the main stem.
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Depending on the time of the winter pruning of apple trees, the effect is not the same. After freezing, apple trees pruned before the spring sap flow (mid-January to early March) are more vigorous in the second year, with good fruit, higher yields, and strong resistance to adverse environments such as low temperatures and drought. The earlier you trim during this time, the better.
If the pruning is too early, the shearing saw mouth loses too much water, and it is easy to form dry piles; It is also not conducive to the fruit tree to resist the cold, and the cutting and sawing edge is prone to frostbite; Pruning too late will deplete nutrients and weaken the tree.
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Winter pruning of fruit trees is carried out during the dormant period from the time when the fruit trees are picked and fallen leaves to the next year, which corresponds to the November to December of the current year and February to March of the following year (the specific time should be combined with the region, the tree species, and the tree potential). In general, the winter season for fruit trees is best carried out from mid-November to the end of December before the soil freezes. Under normal circumstances, the earlier the time of winter pruning of fruit trees, the stronger the promotion effect on the growth of fruit trees after pruning, the later the time of fruit trees in winter, the weaker the promotion effect on the growth of fruit trees after pruning, compared with the winter pruning of fruit trees from January to March of the following year, the fruit trees pruned in November and December have better positive effects in terms of winter resistance, fruit tree growth, flowering and fruiting, orchard yield and fruit quality in the later period.
It is recommended to prune the leaves before the fruit trees fall around mid to late November. Weak trees and twigs are recommended to be done in mid-December after the fruit trees have lost their leaves; Because the dense branches and foliage of the tree affect the lighting, the pruning with leaves is conducive to flexibly and accurately judging the large branches that need to be pruned according to the light conditions of the tree. When pruning in winter, the tree is cut with leaves, and the pruning tree is pruned before pruning the branches.
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Fruit trees can be pruned in winter.
Pruning is done during the period from after the fruit tree has fallen its leaves to before germination the following year, which is called winter pruning. For most species, winter pruning is usually carried out between January and February. The purpose of winter pruning is mainly to thin and shorten some unwanted branches, such as diseased branches, dead branches, dense branches and unusable long branches, etc., to develop a certain shape of the crown, so that the growth of backbone branches at all levels of the crown is balanced, cultivate tissues, and promote the formation of fruiting branches, so as to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting.
After pruning, nutritional supplementation needs to be strengthened, and Bika water-soluble fertilizer can be selected.
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Stub.
Cutting off a portion of an annual branch is called stubbing. According to the length of the shear, it is divided into light stub, medium stub, heavy stub and extremely heavy stub.
Stub pruning is mainly used for the pruning of main, side, and central trunk extension branches or auxiliary branches with growth space, and can also be used for the rejuvenation of weak branches, the control of competing branches or the weakening of erect strong branches to cultivate twig groups.
Retraction. The front part of a perennial branch (2 years old or more than 2 years old) is stubbed (cut or sawn off) and called retraction.
Retraction pruning is mainly used for the renewal of fruiting branches (groups) or backbone branches, as well as the control of canopy and auxiliary branches.
Thinning. Removing useless branches from their base is called thinning.
Thinning is mainly used for the treatment of branches in places where the tree body grows too densely or some upright branches (long branches), competing branches and tree heads on the back. In order to facilitate the ventilation and light transmission of the tree, it forms an ideal tree structure and reduces the unnecessary consumption of nutrients.
Slow down. The annual branch does not move, that is, it is not cut, which is called slow release.
It is mainly used for fruiting branches (long and middle branches) that have formed flower buds and some developing branches with good branch potential and position. In order to ease the growth of branches (trees), promote flower bud differentiation and fruiting.
Open corners. The angle of opening the main, side branches, and strong branches is called the opening angle.
It is mainly used for adjusting the angle of backbone branches at all levels. Due to the strong polarity of pear trees, most of the young trees are in a holding and semi-holding posture under the natural growth of pear trees, which affects their early fruiting, high yield and fruit quality, so the opening angle is the most critical measure for pear tree shaping. Commonly used methods such as support, pull, top, fall, and pressure are used to comprehensively open the angle.
The suitable angle of the backbone branches is slightly different in different shaping methods, and in general, the three main branches at the base are tree shaped, with the main branches being 60° 70° and the side branches being 70° 80°.
Change of direction. Through the methods of parting, bearing, supporting, bending, and supporting, the attitude, angle, and orientation of the branches are adjusted to the appropriate orientation angle.
It is mainly used for shaping the growth posture of small branch groups on backbone branches. It helps to slow down the growth of the branch group, make full use of the space, and improve the yield of the tree and the quality of the fruit.
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In winter, fruit trees suffer less damage from pruning in this type of dormancy. For the average fruit tree, after one year of growth and development, the plant shape will have a new change. For example, many new branches are extracted, the original branches grow thicker, some branches change the direction of growth and development, and some of them weaken after suffering from diseases, or even wither and die.
If this kind of branch is not pruned for people, it is not easy for the fruit tree to have its own recovery function and growth and development, and usually it can only increase the density of the trunk, <>
It hinders the wind and light transmission of fruit trees, and the diseased branches will spread again at a suitable ambient temperature. In winter, it is also necessary to pay attention to the pruning and repair, so as not to hurt the position close to the main pole, and not to leave the branch stump long, so as to promote the early healing of the wound. The cut should be smooth to prevent the roots from tearing.
It is also necessary to wipe the biofilm system at the incision, incision, etc. When pruning, it is also necessary to pay attention to the top side buds to the sides of the branches, maintain the shape of the tree, and then grow outward. The winter pruning of fruit trees is a very critical pruning of the year, and it is also the "unprecedented" re-pruning of the year.
Because it is not only related to the natural ventilation of the fruit tree next year and the prevention of diseases, but also needs to involve the storage of nutrients and the dwarf anvil and plastic surgery of the plant, which is a big adjustment of "a lot of changes" after the fruit tree enters the sleep state. In many cases, in order to better pick fruits in autumn, we usually take advantage of the winter shears to moderately shorten the tree stem to promote the growth and development of side branches. And the tree pole is truncated by the "spiritual pillar" of a tree, which is undoubtedly a "very hurt" "major surgery**", and a little carelessness will destroy the whole tree.
Therefore, we choose the winter fruit tree to sleep and then carry out "surgery**", there is no doubt that it does not hurt the vitality, and it is not easy to feel, and the repair is relatively fast.
After the stubbing, the patient can be mixed with a protective object. The winter shears of fruit trees look "old and new", but they are really a delicate job. Pay attention to the following aspects when cutting:
Pruning fruit trees for a long time is not pruning as soon as there is time after the fruit is sold in the market, nor can it be pruned immediately after the beginning of winter, nor is it pruning and repairing in the case of cold wind and snow. The best time to prune fruit trees is before early spring, i.e. from January to March. At this time, the sap is not fluid, and the body of the tree will want to wake up, and after pruning and pruningAfter a while, the temperature rises, the grass sprouts, and the pruning of fruit trees is limited in the spring season.
Different crown diameters and different plant types have different cutting limits. When cutting and repairing, it is advisable to accurately distinguish, grasp the limit, and ensure that "there is a bamboo in mind". Due to too much pruning, the plant will not stop losing hair next year, and the flowering and fruiting rate will be small; If the pruning is not in place, it will leave useless branches, resulting in unnecessary nutrient consumption and endangering the quality of vegetables and fruits.
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