Photography Assignment What is Anti Balance? Why tune?

Haven't heard of counterbalance. I guess the teacher's head show is funny. White balance is misspelled as inverse balance.

Four ways:

Auto White Balance AWB

Set up for various shooting scenes, such as: sunny, cloudy, shadow, fluorescent, ......Customize the white balance, find a white place, take a picture, and then use this one to define the white balance color temperature, if the light is reddish yellow, the color temperature location, if the light is blue-green, the color temperature is high.

Buy a gray white card and use it to measure and adjust your white balance, it doesn't get much more accurate than this.

What camera are you? I used the Nikon D90 to take a picture of a white card with the same light as the subject, and then in the white balance, there was a manual white balance, which is all in this manual...

Because in studio shooting, the flash is instantaneous high voltage, while the mode of other gears only meters the light generated by the instantaneous high voltage and performs automatically**, which will cause overexposure or inaccuracy. However, the studio also has a constant light source, so you can shoot even without M files.

And depending on the flash index, the speed in M gear cannot exceed some certain values. Otherwise, it will cause a local black screen.

The M file is fully manual, which can shoot the photographer's satisfaction or special effects according to the photographer's requirements**, which is very suitable for photographers who are comfortable with metering, aperture, and shutter.

Advantages: metering, aperture, shutter, ISO can be manually adjusted, and the exposure combination can be arbitrarily adjusted with a single parameter to achieve the effect desired by the photographer.

Disadvantages: Relatively cumbersome locks.

Needless to say, it's just one reason: auto-metering (**) doesn't work very well in the studio, you have multiple lights in the studio, if it's incandescent, and it's okay to turn on the light. If you use a flash, it definitely won't work, because the camera's metering doesn't care about other additional flashes, (unless there is a linkage between the original TTL and the camera) This is not right.

The main thing is flash.

The problem of synchronization, each camera has a synchronous speed, higher than this shutter speed, the lights can not be synchronized, so that the **partial** shot**.

In order to be able to use higher synchronization speeds, it is generally necessary to use the manufacturer's own flash, which cannot be achieved by the synchronizer of the flash in the studio.

If it is an automatic transmission, such as P, A, then only the shutter speed is not controlled. S is controlled, but there are still problems when metering, such as the need for white plus black subtraction, etc., and it is also affected by the composition and other aspects.

Since in the studio, the index of the lamp is fixed, and it is of course the most convenient to hit the m.

For the manual mode, the aperture and shutter including the color temperature ** style are adjusted by yourself, not only in the studio, learning photography (those photography classes outside, or those photography enthusiasts, I don't know) basically in any case need to use M block (control histogram = **).

2.As for shooting in the studio, the camera should be adjusted to M mode because the metering of the camera does not take the flash into account. This requires the aperture shutter to be manually set depending on whether it is handheld or tripod.

To put it simply, the file is easier to control, 2One of the most important reasons is that the light in the studio is fixed, that is, under a fixed light source, each photo.

The ** values produced by the film are basically the same, and there is no need for camera metering.

Manual mode, which allows you to freely set the aperture and shutter value, is not only accurate**, but also maximizes the photographer's creative intention.

Due to the stable light source in the studio, the photographer can obtain a series of optimal aperture shutter combination data through his usual shooting, so he can directly set the aperture shutter value through the manual setting.

Handsome, the question is simple!

The camera's metering is ineffective in flash situations! Under a V p Auto, it is an in-camera metering ground!

m mode, which is the manual mode. In this way, it will be more in line with our needs.

In order to get a more accurate color reproduction of PP, lead Gaoyu needs to manually adjust the white balance under the light source of the shooting site, specific operation: if there is a pure white object (such as a pure white wall) at the shooting site, then aim it with a lens to fill the camera viewfinder and adjust the manual white balance (different camera methods are different, see the camera manual for details). If there is no pure white object on the shooting site, it is better to bring a blank piece of paper to read the correct white balance, but be sure to pay attention to the light of the scene taken by Huaiyan.

Of course, it is also possible to use the principle of manual white balance to set the effect that we need to cast the color. For example, point the camera at a blue object (such as a blue sky) and adjust the white balance to shoot sunrise, sunset, etc.

White balance has nothing to do with taking pictures at the beach, it depends on what kind of weather it is. If you don't grasp the words of the boy Xunhu, use automatic white balance, and the error in the case of general reading block Changyu will not be too big. I don't understand what the ** point means.

Large aperture, shallow depth of field, can shoot a beautiful bokeh effect, small aperture, large depth of field, foreground and background are very clear, and there are some special purposes, such as to use a long ** to shoot the trajectory of the headlights, silky flowing water, in order to prevent overexposure, it is necessary to close a small aperture, or in order to shoot the starlight effect of the point light source, a small aperture is also needed, at this time, in order to ensure**, a relatively long shutter time is required.

There are also examples, shooting portraits at night, turning on the flash, at this time, the flash can basically only shine on the person, and not on the background, in this case, the aperture affects the character**, and basically has no effect on the background, and the shutter affects the background**, which has little impact on the foreground person, which needs to be matched with adjusting the aperture and shutter.

These are just a few simple examples of the difference between aperture and shutter so be targeted adjustments.

That's not the case! The shutter is determined by the subject matter of shooting, such as shooting night scenes (slow shutter speed is used for the effect of car light tailing), and fast shutter is used for sports capture; The aperture is a control of the depth of field, such as shooting people (if you want the background to fade, use a wide aperture), and shooting landscapes (if you want to make sure that everything is clear, use a small aperture). Friendly reminder: The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture, the smaller the value, the larger the aperture, the larger the aperture, and 11 is the small aperture.

A good ** requires the shutter and aperture to cooperate, this needs you to slowly experience and temper, I don't know if you understand this?

The use of aperture and shutter depends on the strength of the light first, and the speed of the film on the second. As long as you grasp these two points well, it is easy to be accurate in light sensitivity. Once you've mastered these, you'll be able to use your aperture and speed with ease.

Because none of them are dead, in the same light, you can use either a large aperture and a fast speed, or a small aperture and a slow speed. After mastering the amount of light entering the light, the aperture and shutter can be adjusted as needed.

If you don't create something, you can shoot as you say, and the automatic file is. To make your creations, such as bokeh out of focus and slow speed dynamic, you have to set the aperture and shutter as you wish.

You're right. This is true in semi-automatic A and C gears.

However, the master does not believe in the choice of machine, and the adjustment in the manual gear can produce the effect that the photographer wants. So there will be the kind of situation that you are struggling with

If you're using A or S, then control one is enough. However, in some cases, the light is very special and the camera mode cannot be accurately judged, so you can only use M gear, so you must adjust the aperture, shutter speed, and sensitivity at the same time.

If you have any questions, you can consult **Want Want: Natural Beauty Photography Studio.