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It's very simple, mine is also Canon's, you use macro, it's best to use super macro (my Canon A480 has) to shine on near objects, the background in the distance is naturally blurred, send you a picture to see.
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If you are using a home card machine, it is more difficult. Because the card machine designed and manufactured by the manufacturer is mainly for beginners, or even the general consumer who does not understand photography at all, in order to avoid confusion in use, the depth of field is basically designed to be very large (small aperture, short focal length), that is to say, whether you are right or not, the ** shot seems to be clear. Unless you're shooting very close to the scene, you can see the small depth of field effect you are talking about, and if you don't believe it, you can switch to macro mode to shoot up close.
Addendum: Depth of field control can be considered from the following three aspects:
1.Use a wide aperture.
2.Use a long focal length.
3.The closer you get to the subject, the more noticeable the effect.
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The so-called depth of field is the range of front and back that the lens can see clearly. The characteristics of focal length are: wide depth of field at a wide angle and narrow depth of field at the telescope.
1.Use the camera itself in head mode. Turn to the longest focus.
2.Keep the background as far away from the subject as possible.
3.A camera with an aperture prerequisite that can open the maximum aperture.
4.Macro is fine, of course, but the depth of field is so short that even the subject is sometimes only partially clear.
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P.S. is fine
The software of this PS is not bad.,It's easy to learn the things in it.,Just look at it yourself.,You can p out a lot of effects.
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When shooting portraits, the people are clearly captured and the background is blurred
1: Shoot with a medium telephoto lens;
2: Use aperture priority (a) mode and shoot with the maximum aperture as much as possible;
3: After ensuring the distance required for composition, the camera should be as close to the subject as possible, and the distance between the person and the background should be as close as possible.
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You should: 1. Use as wide an aperture as possible (the aperture value is small);
2. The longest focal length (the focal length value is large);
3. The lens is as close as possible to the object being photographed.
4. It is necessary to arrange to keep the background as far away from the subject as possible, so that you can shoot as far as possible with the background blurred and the subject clear under the condition of limited equipment.
5. If you use the post-production of the best processing software like Photoshop, you can also get the desired effect, but this kind of production requires a good grasp of the first processing software. However, post-production does not have a process of depth of field grading, so the effect is unnatural.
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There are several ways to do this.
1. There should be a certain distance between the subject and the background, the camera should be close to the subject, focus on the subject, and the background should be naturally blurred. Of course, the wider the aperture, the more obvious the blur, the higher the quality of the lens, and the more beautiful the background blur.
2.With telephoto, the longer the focal length, the more blurred the background, even if the aperture is small, you can achieve the effect of blurred background and solid subject.
If you have any questions, you can ask them, I hope it will help you.
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The focus is clear on the subject, and whether the background is blurred depends on whether the aperture is large enough.
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1. The larger the aperture (the smaller the f-value, the larger the aperture), the better the background blur;
2. The longer the focal length (zoom to the maximum), the better the background blur;
3. The closer the camera is to the subject being photographed, the easier it is for the background to blur;
4. The farther away the subject is from the background behind the subject, the better the background blur.
For example, if you want to shoot a portrait, you change the camera to the aperture priority mode, zoom to the maximum, LX5 should be 90mm, and adjust the f-number of the aperture to the maximum aperture of the camera in this focal length), let the person you want to shoot stand at a distance from her background (such as standing far away from the wall, not at the foot of the wall), then you try to get closer to the person you want to shoot, it is best to take a bust or a big headshot, okay, then you press the shutter to shoot the most likely to blur the background**. It's easier to blur the background with a macro :)
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If you want to get the effect of blurring the background, first of all, you have to be clear about what the subject is in you**, for example, you want to take a picture of a flower, the mess next to the back does not need to be seen clearly, you can choose the macro shooting mode, the camera is about 15cm away from the flower, only the flower is clear after focusing, because other scenes are not in this focal length, so they are all blurred, and the farther away the background thing from the flower you mainly shoot, the softer the blur.
In principle, there are many factors involved in blurring the background, and the main factors are:
Focal length--- The longer the focal length, the smaller the depth of field and the more blurred the background.
Aperture--- The larger the aperture, the smaller the depth of field and the more blurred the background.
Object distance--- The closer the object distance, the smaller the depth of field and the more blurred the background.
Based on the above factors, if possible, you should shoot with the widest possible aperture (small aperture), the longest focal length (large focal length), and as close as possible to the subject being photographed. In addition, it is necessary to arrange for the background to be as far away from the subject as possible, so that you can shoot as much as possible with the background blurred and the subject is clear under the condition of limited equipment.
In addition, if you use the post-production of ** processing software like Photoshop, you can also get the desired effect, but this kind of production requires a proficient grasp of ** processing software, and it is easy to appear unreal when the processing is not ideal.
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If it's a portrait, put the shooting mode to the portrait setting, focus the camera on the person, and press the shutter. If you are shooting landscapes**, you can point the camera at a nearby scene and press the shutter halfway to focus, and then move the camera to the scene you are about to shoot and press the shutter.
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The longer the focal length, the wider the aperture, and the more you can capture background blur.
The performance of the LX5 lens is limited (the light multiplier is small), and it is not possible to play with macro bokeh, and portrait bokeh.
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Bokeh the background, generally use a single-lens reflex machine, the card machine is generally difficult to shoot such an effect, and the general single-lens reflex can basically achieve the effect you said with a telephoto + large aperture.
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Large aperture, high speed.
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Except for the bokeh effect that can be achieved by macro shooting objects, the bokeh ability in other states is extremely limited.
In comparison, I think Casio's comparison is realistic, like the ZR100 with the Exilim HS Engine, which can shoot at a high speed of 3 frames per second. The slow shutter response is no longer a weak point of the card machine!
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