What is the reason for the overexposure and normal shooting of a Canon camera?

When the camera shoots a film, it takes an overexposed ** and a normal**, which means that the camera is currently in a normal working state. As for why 2 ** photos are taken, or is one overexposed and one is in a normal state, there are roughly the following reasons:

1. The location of the metering point is different.

Depending on the metering state, the film effect will be completely different ......Metering the light part, the dark part.

will be underexposed. If you measure light in the dark part, the bright part will be overexposed......This is a well-known thing.

Therefore, if the location of the metering point is different when shooting, there will be a very large difference in the ...... of the filmOne is normal, one is excessive, it's a normal thing.

2. The camera is in the working mode of enveloping**.

In this mode, the camera will shoot different degrees. Therefore, it is normal to shoot multiple ** in one shot......Of course, these ** will eventually be combined into a ......

3. The camera is in HDR working mode.

In this mode, the camera will also shoot different degrees. A single shot will also produce multiple shots**, and eventually a single ** ......

It should be that bracketing is selected in the camera settings, so that you can shoot three shots**. They are underexposed, normal, and overexposed.

It should be that you have set the "Test Shooting" mode, and you can cancel it.

1. The main reason for the failure of the camera ** excessively:

1. The lens barrel is deformed due to bumping.

2. Due to lack of maintenance, there is more sludge in the shutter assembly part, more dust, or rust, which will affect the shutter not working normally.

3. The blades of the SLR camera lens are stained with oil and cannot be opened and closed normally.

4. Water ingress into the camera.

5. The telescopic tape in the zoom lens of a small digital camera is broken, which will cause the aperture to not work.

6. The ambient temperature is too low, resulting in the camera not being able to measure normally, and the aperture and shutter not working properly.

7. If the environment is too humid, it will also cause the camera parts to rust or the lens to become moldy, which will affect the normal metering and mildew of the camera.

8. The camera battery is not powered enough, and the shutter group cannot work normally.

9. If the traditional camera is not used for a long time, or the lubricating oil is dry, it will cause abnormal operation.

2. Solution:

1. You can adjust the focus point, and put the focus point on the face or some light-colored objects, which may be better.

2. Manually modify the aperture and shutter values to be correct**.

3. There is also a very simple way, you can adjust the **compensation** (press the combination key to adjust the **compensation** (EV+dial)), which means over-exposure and - means under-exposure.

The flash can be turned off. You go to the settings and tune it up.

It's really not good to really use manual mode, and the automatic mode is sometimes like this, it's unstable, and the brightness of the shot is different, which is a headache.

I'm also used to using automatic beats, but I'm still learning to use manual ones.

Hello landlord, indoor shooting, when using a DSLR, don't use what mode to use M directly.

The aperture is adjusted to f.

ISO 200 or so.

Shutter 1 100 1 200 So that if you feel it's bright, you can speed up the shutter, and if you don't think it's bright enough, you can slow down the shutter.

Because the light of indoor studio shooting is inconvenient, so at this time, it is most comfortable to use m, which can ensure that the light and so on are almost unchanged.

It's also easy to use in the later stage, and the film is much more comfortable than the automatic transmission.

The most important thing to use a good SLR is to use the M (manual) file. Factors that affect the amount of ** are shutter speed, aperture size, and ISO. If you want to shoot small objects with children's shoes, it is recommended to pull the lens to the nearest and the aperture is the largest, so that the background can be blurred and the subject can be highlighted.

**Problem is easy to solve, increase the shutter speed, turn down the ISO. You have some confusion about children's shoes. Cloudy mode is a mode of WB (white balance), and it has nothing to do with **, it regulates the color temperature.

What you said about one exposure and one not being exposed, it may be that you have turned on**bracketing compensation, that is, the camera will follow the three **data set** after you turn on this function, for the photographer to choose the most suitable one.

Summary. According to the structure of the SLR, you look at the image from the viewfinder and COMS imaging is equivalent to two ways, that is, the image you see from the viewfinder is not the result of the final ** imaging, know this, and there will be no confusion you encounter. **The imaging effect depends on the cooperation of aperture, shutter and sensitivity, try a few more to find the appropriate value, there will be no overexposure or underlight.

According to the structure of the SLR, you look at the image from the viewfinder and COMS imaging is equivalent to two ways, that is, the image you see from the viewfinder is not the result of the final ** imaging, knowing this, you will not be out of the ruler stool years to show the confusion you encounter. **The imaging effect depends on the cooperation of aperture, shutter and sensitivity, and you can find the right value by trying a few more lenses, and there will be no overexposure or underlight.

The most convenient way is to use the camera's own intelligent anti-hunger auto** system, which provides a multi-zone automatic evaluation metering system that can adapt to most environments, and then cooperates with the camera's dedicated automatic flash (smart flash). In addition to the disassembly, this high-level camera also has the function of displaying the best analysis of the shooting results. There are line charts, bar charts, area charts, etc.

These features allow you to determine which areas of the medium are excessive. The most fundamental thing is the photographer's own choice of the shooting environment and control, through the selection of lighting methods: forward light, side light, side backlight, backlight.

The light intensity of each part of the shooting area does not appear too contrasting, etc., which can prevent excessive local ** in the frame.

Canon 60D uses continuous shooting and single shooting, **both fork and appear**normal and overexposed, what is the reason for this?

Hello, there are generally the following possibilities for overexposure: 1. Manual shooting, with the correct aperture shutter combination as the standard, too long, or too large aperture. Or set**Compensation+EV2,Aperture priority shooting,Shutter priority shooting,Set**Compensation+EV3,All settings are correct,But in the shooting picture,Black or dark picture department accounts for a relatively large proportion,Or the metering point selects a dark object,The so-called "white plus black minus" is this reason,Simply put,Shoot black objects need to reduce**amount,-ev,Shoot white or light-colored objects need to increase**amount,+evAuthor:Ten years grandmother link**:

If you can't avoid the backlight face, you should turn on the flash to fill the light with the face of the face with the light as much as possible.

The ** taken by the photo studio and the model either has perfect lighting, or there is a reflector to assist in the lighting outside, which is carefully arranged, so the effect is better.

Some places of the face are exposed, and some places are still very dark" is also related to the camera's metering mode or the tolerance of the sensor, an ordinary card machine, don't be in a hurry to quickly press the shutter to take pictures when taking portraits, wait for the camera to adapt to the light after the spring slows down, balance the ** value, after stabilizing, and then press the shutter halfway to focus and shoot, some cameras also have face detection functions, blocking is to give priority to metering and focusing on the face, so that the face is the clearest;

There is also a reasonable application of the compensation function, the general camera has this button, it can be seen that it is a very important and practical parameter adjustment, if the camera is overlooked, there is still some overexposure, you can appropriately reduce the compensation try, after the suitability, then press the shutter button, focus, shooting.